Jerryjeeprichard

On 2/24/2024 at 11:51 AM, earlymb said:

Very nice job, do you weld up the hex holes in the bolts to make them appear rivets?

Ive been using M4 button head screws and nuts to hold the catches in place. Quick trial fit on the locker trailer to make sure they fit. Then I remove a nut and bolt (one at a time) and fit a rivet in its place. 

Little more progress today. 
 

Little more progress today. 
 

13 hours ago, Ron said:

It's just plain greedy. 😄😄 Ron

Ron. 
 

I agree, I plan to sell some of the bikes on. 🫣

10 hours ago, welbike said:

Looks a bit like this!

Lex

Lex, 

Looks like some good projects pulling together. Do you have engines for them? 

Little more progress on the fleas. 

while we have had some rubbish weather I’ve been stripping more bikes down for blasting. 
 

I’ve by the bullet. 
 

I’ve found a company that have managed to replicate the original style hinge. 
Only difference is the thickness in material, ever so slightly thicker than the originals due to the availability of press tooling to handle the thinner material.  

Images below detail the last few days progress. 
 

Hi Ron, 

I’ve been lucky enough to turn up a few miller tail lamps and cast aluminium throttle holders. 
 

Australia of all places. 

All still in the original packaging. 
 

Hi Richard

Little sketch below of the hinge sizes I need to source 

Most companies make this size of hinge, it’s just the thickness grows with the bigger pins and knuckles 

Do you have any contact?

Seem to be lacking some motivation on this restoration at the moment!!
I managed to pluck few hours this weekend. So some progress on the stores trailer. 
 

I have one complete locker now almost all riveted up. Literally just have the doors left to fit. 
Although to do this I need to purchase piano hinges, which are readily available. Just not in the specific sizes I need. 
I have found a company that will manufacture for me, just with a hefty price tag. 
So the question is bite the bullet, pay the price, or compromise and go for a similar Off the shelf hinge, at an approximately 1/3 of the price??

Some steady progress on the liner trailer. 
 

Just started to get the trailer broken down into its component parts ready to start getting parts blasted and painted. 
First task was to get the saw bench lifted off., serious bit of weight. 
Next job will be to tackle the axle and springs.  
 

Also still on the hunt for a JAP 6 engine, if anyone knows of one please get in touch. 

Another lucky find this week. 
 

Another bowser trailer. This time just a rolling chassis. It’s been modified slightly to accommodate a wooden body, the rear 4 “ of the chassis removed and brackets for bolting the tank on have been removed too. 
All simple fixes though. This is the third rolling chassis I have had with this style of modification. 
I’m assuming these little trailers were bought up after war and modified in this manner by one company. Then just sold on as general purpose trailers…? 
I already have three bowser, so I just plan on moving this straight on if anyone knows of anyone in the market for summer restoration. 
 

I can help with any missing dimensions. 
 

I hadn’t considered that these would be used on vehicles. I suppose logical now I look at it.  

Ive been slowly collecting parts to complete some of  the missing bits on the saw bench. 
 

I’ve managed to pick up a nice little WW2 JAP engine, model 5, originally from a generating set.
Alas the foot print of the engine is too small to align with the mounting  holes on the saw. 

I’ve done more research and I know know, also tying in with the comments above it is the JAP 6 engine I need to try and locate .
Mounting holes on this size engine match and align the chassis on the trailer. 
 

I also had some luck in picking up an original enamel Liner sign, little enamel loss, but not to shabby.  

Picked these up the other day. Thought they would make a nice period accessory for the bowser. 
 

11 hours ago, earlymb said:

That looks really nice, I wonder if this tool would work too for the smaller front rivets of a jeep frame (bumper gussets and grill brackets)? I guess getting an anvil at the back might be a bit tricky but not impossible.

That’s a good question. I have a number of chassis that need the gussets riveting on. I managed to buy the correct size rivets

I just don’t think the riveting tool  I bought has the power to push the head of the rivet over. I was thinking of adapting a hydraulic crimp tool to do this..? 

Thought I would post a little update on progress on the stores trailer.
All the rubbish weather inside work only!! 
 

I’ve finally started the riveting.. the technique has been progressing. 
I started this with a traditional snap and set, using a hammer. Got about 20 rivets in and shattered the tool. 
As David’s suggestion I adapted SDS chisel bit, with the aid of a spark eroded, it did the job but due to the size of the tool plus drill mixed with the shape of the bins really struggled to get straight onto the rivet head.

So I have bitten the bullet and purchased a riveting tool.. which turned out to be a game changer. So quick and easy,

I’ve burnt through 800 rivets in two days. Now back on the hunt for more rivets to finish the job. 
 

On 11/8/2023 at 8:47 PM, Chris Suslowicz said:

Very impressive, but why would the engine be jacked up? (Surely it would make the trailer far more unstable when being towed? Or was ground clearance an issue when used off-road and they had to do that to resolve it?)

Chris. (G8KGS) 

Chris. 
 

It’s a good question, something I’ve be thinking about. Certainly not a ground clearance issue. 
 

These we made to be air-portable. So needed a low hight to fit inside a glider, whether or not these were ever moved in a glider is another question. 

As Matchfusee pointed out these were originally skid units, then some adapted to fit into trailers, trucks etc. 

I would surmise the engine being sat so low in the trailer was a pig to work on, so having it sat on the upper frame made any maintenance whole lot easer. All be it now being top heavy. 
 

Some pictures I have found showing the Austin engine sat down in the chassis…. See how impractical it would be to work on it. 
 

I’ve had these sat on the shelf for years, 

I’ve no idea what they are off. Can anyone identify them? 

Assume British army? Ferret maybe? 
 

I think it’s now confirmed I have a trailer problem… !

Yes another one has joined the collection, purchased from two avid trailer collectors. 
 

This is the murex welding version, very complete, sat in its post war bronze green. For now this will be pushed into the shed, but at some point will be stripped engine lowered back into the chassis, repainted and fitted back with ww2 electrics. 
 

Few images below. 
 

Managed to get the original WD  WW2 dated tyres back on the rims. 

Very happy with the results. 

Weather..... 😞 Inside jobs only....

Engines back from the vapor blasters, 

Nuts and bolts back from the platers. 

Frame all in paint, just a case of bolting it all back together. 

I’ve been slowly getting some more tinwork remade,

Last few days work have been in remanufacturing the side panels, added difficulty of having to press in the lovers. 
 

 Added complexity of trying to find someone with lover tooling, in the end I had to make a tool to get the sizes I needed. 
 

Lex. 
 

I’ve read your post end to end on the Clark, challenging restoration. But very rewarding. 
 

Head wise mine has blasted up well, no cracks fortunately. 
 

I’m in the need of valves and piston rings and a good sump. Once I have these I can maybe make a start on rebuilding the engine. 
 

Have you any good leads for parts? 
 

Engine manuals gratefully received too.
 

Richard