G506

Nice work Pop. Shes looking great! :bow:

Do you have rear mudguards tucked away somewhere? If you dont, or if yours are a bit screwed, Vehicles of Victory manufacture replacements, they look superb and they're not expensive at all.

I like your front tyres, they look like the early WW2 tread pattern, did they come with the truck or did you find some?

G506

Are Chevy's allowed on the GMC run out?

Or are you Jimmy boys a little fussy about the number of axles a truck has........... :pfrt:

he he he he

G506

Hi James,

welcome to the mad house!

Im a Triumph man through and through, so Im probably biased, but my two recommendations on the WW2 range would be a Triumph 3HW (350cc single overhead valve), or BSA M20 (500cc single sidevalve), the Triumph is lighter and faster, the BSA is reliable and solid, and parts arent too bad to source. The Norton 16H is along similar lines to the BSA, but not too many examples around. Ariel WN/Gs are lovely, but again fairly scarce.

A lot of people like the Matchless G3L 350, generally regarded as the best handling Brit army bike of ww2, personally I really dont like them, but thats just my opinion!

If you are seriously considering buying WW2 Brit iron, shop around, get lots of opinions from different people, do your research, blah blah blah, but, dont leave it too long............. for years values were really low, the last couple of years they have been increasing in price.

Hope this helps, and good luck with it!

G506

George,

any luck then? Did the head come off?

G506

Pop,

Staman Trading in Holland (ask for Joop) keeps new Omaha 7,50x20s

G506

Count me in Jack! I missed Bolero so I wont miss this!

Theres no way the Chevy will be finished by next year, so it would be the trusty Landy.

G506

Degsy,

you're a star, thank you! :-D

I need to have another look at that bonnet now, and try to spot a '3' at the start, maybe I'll be lucky

thanks again

G506

Pop

im not 100% sure, but I know a man who may know

I will try to call him this evening

:-)

G506

Your Chev bonnet no. should start with a 3, the numbers starting 1 were for passenger cars(sedans) with between 2 and 7 seats.

I think I need to look again at that number, the problem is that as with the rest of the truck, rust had taken a hold badly on the bonnet (the centre of the bonnet is missing!), and the middle part of the number is very unclear, but it sounds like it shouldnt be a '1'.

if you need it I can post a full list of all the type designation prefix numbers.

 

:-D :-D :-D :-D Yes please

Nice work pop, you have been a busy boy!

I wish mine was as far along as yours :cry:

Any luck with a windsreen frame yet? They tend to be fairly expensive when they come up for sale, have you tried Rex Ward?

In two weeks time I can get stuck into my truck again, and hopefully I will finally finish off the front axle rebuild!

Being new to WW2 US stuff, can someone shed any light on hood numbers please? Ive heard there was a pattern, in particular the first digit of the number, GMC s and Chev 1 1/2 tonners starting with '4'. Ive started trying to recover the remains of Oddball the Chevy's hood number, but that looks like it starts with '1', ie USA 1 *****, so now Im a bit puzzled.

In fairness it doesnt take much to puzzle me :tongue:

Also, its 'Prestone' anti freeze marking is pretty clear, but does the two digit number indicate the date the anti freeze was checked, or the date it needed checking next?

:-D

G506

Have next week off work, so hoping to get her road-worthy again by the end of the week, but we shall see.

 

 

 

How successful was the week's work Pop? Any photos?

Thanks chaps.

 

 

What I don't understand is that the knock isn't a fast knock.

 

 

Does the noise seem fairly well matched to road speed? You say it isnt a fast knock, so presumably not proportional to engine speed, so maybe final drive related - have you got a dodgy universal joint maybe?

Forgot to ask, what does the oil pressure guage say, and have you noticed a drop in pressure?

G506

Jack, what a nightmare :-(

Without being there to listen its difficult to say for sure. I hate to say it, but what you describe sounds an awful lot like big end bearings, early symptoms being knocking during acceleration under load. At stand still the engine isnt under load, therefore no noise. Of course, you could be lucky, and its only the ignition timing thats slipped, this can give a very nasty noise under heavy load that can sound similar

G506

Hi Alan, you have to be the youngest collector Ive ever heard of! And a DUKW at 15 years old, amazing, top effort fella!

Can you post some pics of your Ford and Dodge ?

Good luck with it all !

G506

I know its gonna need outriggers, so if anyone has a contact I would be grateful, Im not well up on LR suppliers.

 

A couple of companies who may be of help to you

http://www.landroverorphanage.com

http://www.dunsfold.com

(both highly recommended)

G506

Photos and EMER info would be spot on :-D

Thanks Andrew

Hi Andrew,

thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure these are correct front fitted brackets, as opposed to the rear bulkhead ones for series 3, and line up exactly with screw holes on the front bulkhead. Incidentally, I only install them on arrival at a show, I dont leave them fitted while driving, as I dont want Mrs G506 being impaled in the event of an accident! :schocked:

I wondered if in 1961 the army were using a particular rifle, and then later on in the sixties they changed to a different rifle, perhaps resulting in different bracket positioning on Landys. It doesnt help that I know absolutely nothing about rifles :-(

Thanks for your help anyhow

G506

Hi Chappers,

yes it is, maybe a C4 or CS8? Not sure. Many British vehicles were abandoned following the evacuation from Dunkirk in 1940, some in such great numbers that the Germans did standard modifications and even assigned them their own 'kfz' number, effectively giving them a new identity, albeit for the other side! Im no expert on this subject, and currently Im stuck 2000 miles from all my MV reference books, but I know a man who knows all about these captured Brit vehicles...........

Finally, after 10 years without, I turned up a pair of rifle brackets for the Landy 2A, but now Im a bit puzzled, Im not sure what the correct positioning is for them! The speedo/instrument cluster panel has two small cut outs that marry up perfectly, but no screw holes on the bulkhead to attach to. On further examination, there are screw holes that seem to marry up elsewhere on the bulkhead, one of which is directly in front of the passenger seat. It could be that this speedo/instrument cluster panel is out of another 2A, and there were two different mounting positions, corresponding to different weapons perhaps?

Any ideas anyone?

Hi George,

Andy Lees post is good advice, try that first. If it doesnt work, prepare to get medievel with it :evil:

I had this exact problem about two months ago on my best mate's WC52 project. The fault was as you described, all nuts removed, but the head would'nt budge. After some very close examination, it transpired that the head had seized solid to a stud (as you mention), right up close to the cab bulkhead, meaning space was extremely tight, and the grip on the stud was such that the stud wouldnt unscrew. This is what I did -

- Absolutely drown the affected area with WD40 or similar good quality releasing agent, preferably overnight. When you are satisfied it has soaked in enough, give it even more WD40 !!!

- Put the kettle, have a brew, gather as much energy and patience as you can, you're going to need it ..............

- GENTLY insert small fox wedges (preferably aluminium, brass, or another soft metal) all around the head, the more the better to help prevent twisting the head. Dont forget, the gap you are inserting these wedges into is a gasket mating surface

- Threaten the engine with violence if it doesnt do as its told, this doesn't usually work, but what the hell, you'll feel better

- Evenly, gradually and carefully knock the wedges further in. This will take time, care and patience, maybe a couple of hours, dont rush this operation, as you could warp the head. Dont allow the gap to be larger at one end to the other, again warping will result.

- As Chappers mentions, tapping with a large soft face hammer (or 'dead blow hammer', a hammer half filled with lead shot, bl##dy marvellous tool) throughout the operation will help, but do this both sides of the head, don't concentrate in only one area.

But you do need to know, what I've described here is not without risk, you stand a fair chance of warping the head even if you proceed with caution. Before I started, I checked availability of cylinder heads, just in case, and they dont seem particularly rare/expensive, but double check in your area. Of course, one way to look at it is that the head has to come of sooner or later, with or without damage. And most important of all, obviously wear goggles, gloves, etc, etc...........

There are other ways to do get a troublesome head off a sidevalve engine , but they do tend to be very involved, and/or brutal, I would rather not share them at this stage, squeamish people could be reading :whistle:

Once the nasty troublesome head is off, and you've finished being extremely proud of yourself, get yourself off to an engineering company, ask them to check the removal process didnt warp the head. Next (assuming its not warped), you need to make sure it ain't gonna happen again. Thoroughly examine the gasket face of the cylinder block for damage. Check no debris has fallen into any of the cylinders. Clean all head bolt drillings thoroughly, clean the offending head stud (or replace with new), and coat the studs with the thinnest smearing of copper grease, do not go mad with this as it will get thin as the engine reaches operating temperature and run into other areas, cylinders, etc, and thats bad, very bad :-(

Finally, on your way to the pub, glare menacingly at the Dodge for causing you so much trouble

Good luck with it

G506

Will do. I have just bought a sand blaster so first job will be blasting the chassis and axles. Should be able to paint the chassis and cab then 8-).

 

 

 

Wise move Pop, buying a blaster. Just blasted my axles, be aware, doesnt matter how carefully you mask off critical areas, grit/sand gets everywhere!

 

 

 

Yes Its booked in for about 6 shows so far. The first one is at the start of July :schocked:

 

Sounds like its going to be a busy week for you! But once shes parked up on a showground gleaming it will all be worthwhile :-)

Is that the best you got? you forgot the 101st aibourne markings! :evil:

 

First vehicle off the landing craft on the 6th June 44 as well............

 

you still didn't answer the the Triumph question though? :whistle:

 

Ok, Ive been rumbled :oops: yes I will admit that the 5sw has been sidelined for the moment, but work will restart in earnest this October

 

Wont be at beltring, bit too near delivery time for my new apprentice! :-D

 

Now you're showing a lack of imagination, surely there is a maternity ward near Paddock Wood...........just a thought :-D

 

 

Have fun off shore, hahahaha

 

:-( Yeah, thanks, only 20 days to go

I'd rather be working on the Chevy

 

I set myself a date of May this year, but its still in pieces :roll: . Have next week off work, so hoping to get her road-worthy again by the end of the week, but we shall see.

 

Can't wait to see some pics.

 

Hi Pop

keep us posted on how your week goes! Is yours booked in to any events this summer?

I wont be able to get to mine until July now :cry:, but I'll be able to get a fair amount done then.

G506