timbo

Wow that Miss Majestic report is scary....2 and a half turns on a jubilee clip made the difference between life and death...

Hello Andy

Not been to the shed recently as it is a couple of ours from me, and now that I have storage in Yorkshire I am focussing on one vehicle at a time. Steady (but slow) progress is being made though. A pack has been sourced and it is now a case of collecting all the other bits and working out where it all goes! If you want to see the beast in the flesh it will be on static display at the Tanks Trucks and Firepower show over the August bank holiday...

Cheers

Timbo

 

A separate thread might be of interest?

 

Andy

Andy

I was about to say it could be called 'hose of the week' but I think I'd better stop now...!!

Tim

This is the main coolant pipe which goes through the bulkhead. I had problems with this joint on my Spartan and have therefore used 2 jubes on here...

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78091[/ATTACH]

 

Just a note on this mate, if using two Jubilee (worm drive) clips, put them back to back, pref on opposite sides, not side by side like this.

Ideally use the ONE BOLT CLAMPS, sometimes called SUPA HOSE CLAMPS (just a brand name like Jubilee!), they are more secure and you only need one, looks better too.:idea:

Cheers for the tip mate, just ordered one. I never knew hoses could be such a talking point!

Looking good! It seems like the J60's oil pressure switch may be the same as the K60? On the K60 it's buried under the front alternator so you can't get at the bottom mounting bolts.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]78133[/ATTACH]

 

Andy

Hi Andy

Yes I guess there will be a few of these common components about. The lack of access to critical mounting bolts also seems to be quite common...!

Cheers

Tim

Certainly hope so Andy! All pics should now be OK...

Finally in go the refurbished air cleaner components with fresh oil...note that if you have a non turreted variant there is less room for the air cleaner so you will have long shouldered bolts to allow you to tighten them... I also fitted a new seal where the air cleaner meets the intake, retained with a bit of silicone.

I then added fresh oil, and filled and bled the coolant system. I just used water at this stage, as I will change both the oil and coolant fairly quickly, and put proper coolant in then. Forgot to get pics but there are four coolant bleed points - right rear of the engine for the heat exchanger, the top coolant pipe, the heater pipe, which attachs to the top coolant pipe, and the top corner of the radiator.. She is now up and running and ticking over nicely, so next steps will be to refurb the firewall and put the drivers compartment and decks back together (after a few more test runs!)....

This final pic is a general view of the finished engine bay...note the essential extinguisher readily to hand!!

So next I tackled the exhaust flexi pipes and Y piece. Chris is undoubtedly right that this is easier done with the engine out - another lesson learnt..!! There is an internal length of pipe, one short, one long, in the flexi pipes. The short pipe had corroded beyond repair (about 30% of it had ceased to exist) so I fitted a new one...

Here are the components laid out prior to fitting...

It is very doable this way but as Chris says easier with the engine out. Annoyed that I didn't think of this!!! Wiggle and bash, wiggle and bash is the order of the day, but be careful, these flexi pipes are DELICATE, and you really don't want to end up breaking one of the exhaust castings...

Hi Tim,

 

Have you got the exhaust flexy pipes and y piece fitted yet? It's much easier to put those on before you put the engine in !!

 

Chris

Patience Chris patience !!

I then refitted the alternator. The crane comes in handy for getting it into the engine bay! I refitted the two large socket head bolts underneath using a cut down track pin and the 2 large bolts holding it to the sidewall. When refitting the alternator cable, there are 3 smaller pins which you have to be careful not to bend or crush...

I tensioned the alternator belt then realised I had forgotten to tension the fanbelt. You should only need to do this if you have disturbed the fan. There is no tensioner as such, just a few mm of movement in the fan mounting holes, so you loosen and retighten the bolts. To aid this I popped a strap through the fan and tensioned it with the crane (not too tight though), then retensioned the alternator belt (this has a proper tensioner assembly).

This is the main coolant pipe which goes through the bulkhead. I had problems with this joint on my Spartan and have therefore used 2 jubes on here...

Next the fuel pipe is attached to the carb...

The starter motor connections next. It is worth checking and double checking the security of these, as more than one CVRT owner will tell you...

Next the lead to the fire junction box..

And a general view as it starts to take shape...

Next up the famous oil pipes which feed from the heat exchanger through the bulkhead to the gearbox...

This is the top one which is pretty easy to access.

And this is the bottom one, which is tricky but can be got at from underneath the fan with a good quality large adjustable..

I then fitted the top coolant pipe..

And connected the fire pipes to the hose which leads to the extinguisher. The bracket was removed from the old engine...

Back to the engine bay and I started connecting things up. This is the earth strap which connects to the starter

The coolant pipe to the header tank.....

And the coolant pipe from the water pump to the heater. This pipe does not come with recon engines and has to be removed from the original engine, or purchased separately.

I stripped and cleaned the air cleaner, jetwashed the interior, fitted new heatshield and painted the lid.

So having got the four bolts in and tight, it was time to start cleaning up the ancillaries. The only real trick with the engine bolts is that the one at the right rear is very hard to reach. You will need 3 or 4 extensions, and it is wise to put tape round them so they dont pull apart. I cleaned up the alternator with the trusty angle grinder and wire brush and then sprayed it. I also removed the end cover but it was actually pretty clean in there.

Hi and welcome!

Check the 'tell us' section should give you what you need..

Also hope my thread on sabre engine change is of interest!!

Cheers

Tim

Hello

 

I had same problems this week on my Spartan .:nut: Wet plugs, first thinking was: engine flooded. Also changed plugs then, no effect. After checking the fuel Filter i found some water in the filterbowl.

It seemed that condensation water was sucked in the fuel system caused by loading it on a trailer. So water from the bottom of the fuel tank was sucked into the fuel lines.

 

So first check the fuel filter.

-If water or debris found clean filter and then disconnect the vertical fuel tube on the bulkhead (RH of drivers shoulder).

-Bleed with fuel pump until clean fuel is pumped out and reconnect (use some rags, fuel will spill out).

-There is a 9/16 brass nut at the rear base of the carb body (the lower one). There you can drain the water from the carb (with fuel pump OFF!)

 

 

I then connected filterbase inlet with a hose to a jerry-can to make sure clean fuel is delivered.

 

Started on the button.

 

Please be carefully, look for good ventilation, open all hatches. Avoid any sparks flames.....

Stay safe :-).

Sound advice, petrol is not to be messed with!!! A couple of years ago a mate volunteered to help with my Samson which had a petrol tank full of cruddy water. All we had to drain it with was the top off a spray paint. Took him 4 hours trapped in the gloom in the back of the hull - I kept checking he was still conscious every 15 minutes or so - he's not offered to help since!!!!

IT LIVES mwwaaaahahahaaaa....!

Loads of pics to post but have to finish fitting the exhaust and air cleaner in the morning so will post tomorrow...

Started on the button, and sounds, ahem, a bit throaty with no exhaust on....

Dont know about the module but the coil is pretty straightforward. Try that first, there is a good chance that will sort it. Hoping to start my Sabres new engine for the first time tomorrow, so fingers crossed! Seem to be CVRTs being rebuilt all over the place at the moment - great stuff!!

I dont know much about these things but I do remember talking to the owner of the 'Dewsbury Diamond T's' a few years ago and I seem to remember he said he had fitted a Fuller 9 speed box (does that sound right?), which considerably increased the top speed, but resulted in frequently broken halfshafts...

Tim

Hi Kevin

If you get no further comments I would post in tracked vehicles as you may get more response. Some pics might help to stir peoples interest too! The Armortek kits look very impressive. My problem is I have too many 1/1 kits to be getting on with (admittedly of cvrt not cent!), never mind finding the time for a model version!!

Out of interest have you any experience of the mark 1 tanks kits? My impression is that the Armortek products are better engineered but also more pricey?

Tim

Here it is..

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?15274-Films-with-aircraft-theame&highlight=Sole+survivor

Yes there was a lengthy thread about this film some time ago. I think there was both a film and an episode of the twilight zone with the same story...

Eau de nil still has its uses though. My Sabre has, as you would expect, the engine and ancillaries in sky/ duck egg blue, but other parts, such as the drivers firewall, are eau de nil. The engine now going in is a recon, but I have repainted all the ancillaries with Marcus Glenns excellent 'light engine blue', and purchased a tin of marine eau de nil to refresh the firewall....