mitch

alleight plugs cleaned--regapped and back in thier respective holes and the engine is now running as sweet as you like,, though we did find on the presure test that the left bank was running about 30 psi lower than the right bank, going to leave it at that for now as it seems to be happy enough,, next on list fixing the release valve on the brakes system--its got what looks like a rubber bung out of position--so tomorrow im diss assembling it and sorting it out.

just taken all the spark plugs out of mine-- wow what a motley crew they are--each one a suprisingly complex three peice affair and all are heavily caked in a mix of rust and coke--with one soaked in petrol--a definate candidate for the weak performance. the plugs them selves are so different to any i have seen commercially i doubt will be able to cheaply replace them so instead i am going to renovate them. hopefully that will improve the running a lot! two of the plugs

my french is somewhat--inadequate, so i am copying the french text onto google translate and then making a new document in word--with the diagrams copied and pasted over, its working quite well so far though its a slow process. below is an example of how well its working out., D) OPERATION VALVE APPLICATION (FIG63) through the orifice (a) receives the rubber diaphragm on the top surface air pressure from air-pak. The annular chamber © communicates through the orifice (d) with the atmosphere, the chamber (b) communicates with the independent brake valve and the chamber (e) with the auxiliary tank. when the pressures on both sides of the diaphragm are about to equalize. it returns to its equilibrium position close to leaving under the action of the springs (3 and 4) the intake valve (2). valve and allows application to instantly tap the brake Merne direct pressure than that provided by the secondary reservoir. of the driver lowers the stress on the brake pedal, the air-pak reduced pressure © until the two pressures are balanced by (a) and (f). accelerated application valve and the exhaust air cylinders of the wheels of the trailer then acting quick release valve.

thanks for the dash schematic, its handy being able to identify all the lights and dials, i have been painstakingly translating the text from one of the manuals you linked me too--i dont know if you have translated any of it yourself but if you want ii can send you each bit as its been completed. (it wont be in order as i am concentrating on the bits that are relevant to what i am currently doing--but it all helps.

Thanks for that mate, the manuals are first rate! I have downloaded the manuals and have started translating this one http://armytrucks.free.fr/cariboost_files/tm/MAT2719%20.pdf though its going to take a long time to complete, also thankyou for the dash rundown, thanks to you i now know how to shut off the heater! thats a real relief. the gutless running issues, well mines pretty bad--it goes down to walking speed on a steep hill and wont break 30 on an incline, having pretty much eliminated the fuel from the equasion I think my issues are most likely to be distributor and spark related, though your probably not wrong to want to test compression as well. it cant hurt. i think the biggest hint as to whats wrong with mine is that its economy is really dreadful---4-5 mpg at present. i would think around 12mpg would be more the mark if mine were running healthy. ah well fixing it up is a big part of the fun!

thanks mate, I hasten to add that its a supplement to my munga--not a replacement!

HI Ian,, thanks for the list,, and the manuals will earn you undying gratitude and a tow anytime you need it! so far mines been running a little rough and a tad gutless, so I have been concentrating on making it run sweetly, to start with so far i have been working my way through the fuel system cleaning the filter and blowing the pipes through, the crud in the filter was truly impressive and there was some water too. The fuel pump seems to be in very good condition and had no detritus trapped in it, I must confess I am somewhat eager to tear the carb apart and give it a big clean too, though that seems to be working just fine right now and as the pump was clean im guessing the carb is too, so im letting it alone for the time being. next on the list 1. distributor is not satisfactory--its loose and two of the screws holding it on wont tighten. I plan to take it off---give it all a very thorough clean out and then re-tap the screw holes and replace the screws so it sits on nice and tight. im also going to change all the plugs over, and if i can the HT leads too. i must confess im somewhat daunted by all the protection they have. im pretty confident with these things sorted mine should run as sweet as you like. Oil and other fluids--I have dipped and examined the oil, i was pleasantly suprised to see it was at a good level and the oil on the stick looked very clean and healthy. im still going to change it, but at least its not running on treacle. the rad is in excellent condition and the waters very clean and has no froth--im very encouraged and im also happy that the hoses all look to be in very good order. I was certain on my way home i was going to have trouble with hoses blowing, just happy to be pleasantly suprised they didnt. lights on mine all work bar a single back light (bad bulb) and a main beam bulb, but apart from a couple of dash instruments that appear to have been disconnected the electrics are in first rate condition, touch wood. Interestingly--the light settings panel is very similiar to the one in my munga, so i had no trouble figuring it out and floor mounted main beams is an old freind, a lot of yanks have the same as does my munga, though its position is a tad odd-mines right uner the brake pedal. all the convoy lights work, though some spoil sport seems to have disconnected the infra red headlights. one thing i noticed looking at the pics of yours is that the llight setting switch in yours appears to be metal, while mines rather bendy plastic. The brakes are an aquired taste i must admit, though i have gotten the hang of them now, they perform very well indeed for a vehicle of this ones age. though tonight while moving it away from my garage the dump valve for the compressed air became stuck during a vent and dumped all the air. I dont think anythings broken it just got stuck, so now im going to take apart and thoroughly clean and service that particular unit. im glad it went while being shunted rather than on a motorway. gut feeling is that had that happend a good wallop with something might have freed it. Up to this point its pressure seemed to be ok--though to be fair i have only had it since wednesday. I am worried that the bottles themselves look quite corroded, id be happier changing them for new ones. As for leaks,, not a drop out of place so far, it all looks very good. I will be checking the fluid levels for that and possibly changing them but again at present while it works fine its on the list behind a few other jobs, the oils seal input you mentioned-seems to have a bit of a leak, nothing tragic but enough to leave its mark everytime its parked for more than half an hour. at the moment i will let it alone while over more pressing isues get attended too, but long term i will try to renew both that seal and all the diff seals and gaskets as they all seem a little weepy. I havent even seen the pressure and heat sensors you mentioned, but now i know they exist, rest assured they will be hunted down and checked. out of curiosity, where abouts are the heater controls, mines on flat out all the time and with that big old v8 chucking its heat out, the cabs like a sauna, id actually pay to be able to turn it off!

Thanks Ian, that explains a fair bit, when its daylight i will check all the makers plates in the cab (it seems to have about 5 of them) for the serial number, if your right about the production years and my ones got the correct dates then i would think mine might well possibly be one of the prototypes. anyway,, i think we should move the posts over to the over thread lest i stir the wrath of my fellow munga owners for hijacking their thread.

Thanks for that Ian, I will definately be plumbing you for info and have already checked out your website (it came up on a google search) you have some great pics I must say your one looks in very good condition--great job so far. (i love the padlock and chain on the door!) I certainly wouldnt mind getting my hands on a manual for this beasty. I would love to see your one sometime as well, if only to see what the differences are between a unic and a sumb (very few I would think) cheers Ian!

Thanks Ian,, thats very helpful. dont suppose you would know what all the switches on the dash do? I have figured most out but theres a few that so far defy explanation.

I think I just joined the french mv owners Club! :cool2: This week this bought a 1958 simca unic fromt he isle of wight--according to the owner its the one out of the mueseum there! anyone with tech manunals or good parts contacts id be very interested to hear about them!

Thanks for that runflat--much appreciated!

HI chaps, I just bought a 1958 simca unic and was wondering where i should put posts about it?

slightly off topic, but while sitting sitting staring at my currently transmissionally challenged munga i on a whim hit ebay and unexectedly wound up spending money---i know own this--1958 simca unic I bought it from a guy on the isle of wight, According to to him it was in the islands military museum from 99 till this year and has only done 7600 km from new. (i will be checking up on that with the museum) but checking aside its mechanically in very very good condition and drove back about 140 miles from the island to my home without a problem. of course i did spend £138 on fuel though,,:wow: what do you think fellas?

i think tomorrow i will give it a stern talking too and warn it that unless it behaves i will sell it and buy an iltis!

Thanks mate--im hoping to sort it too, im going to have a punt on a spare gearbox i think I saw for sale and see if i cant solve the problem by swapping the entire transmission out. im getting better as a mechanic every time i fiddle but the prospect of having to go deep into the boxs innards doesnt make me feel good.

looking better than good mate,, im going to have to give my one a clean up now lest it let the side down!:nut:

well today i am in bits---really really brassed off.. just finished a couple of months fixing my mungas gearbox front seal leak and hi lo adjuster problems and had just returned to the road in the old girl and was using it in a low budget movie today--when the bloody gearbox went and had a fit. and I feel its a serious one. it was parked up and not being used, but i was needed to shunt some kit down to set in it, got in hit the starter and it wouldnt catch--thought it might be in gear so dropped the clutch and wiggled the stick---nope it was in neutral---then hit the starter again---with the clutch down. engine roars to life--no probs, i lift off the clutch--so it can idle while talking to someone and the engine immediately stalls. just like its in gear but while in neutral- the car doesnt move at all though--no lurch like a stall normally gives. puzzled i try starting again with the clutch down----no prob--fires up--then i slip into first--no prob--i lift clutch and again a stall but without any lurch. i get out and try to move the car by pushing but its stuck as if in gear. i rock it while having a friend waggle the shifter--nothing.. i check the handbrake--its all in order and no issues to be seen.i drop the cluch and try pushing again and this time it rolls freely. I assume its the troublesome hi lo again,, so dissasemble it. as far as can be told from what could be felt in the gap between cover and gearbox casing (the covers a sod to remove fully with the gearbox in the car) it seems ok. I experiment by adjusing cables--clutch and hi lo selector--no effect. left with no option but to recover the vehicle i have to accept a tow, with me sitting in it with clutch pedal on the deck. after a couple of miles it frees up. and i think great might be able to limp home now---but no go now it wont go into gear at all--a big time "sccrrruunnnnnccching" noise every time i attempt to shift. so piXXed off i sit out the tow home--with a bloody down pour adding insult to injury --(roof is off pending restoration) the old lady is home now parked up safely under a tree, im drying out, and tomorrow i am looking at yet another engine and gearbox out job. really really upset about that.

Looking great mate... very clean and tidy!!!

Its airsoft not paintball! The sites run by a chap called Frank who is the onwer of a firm called fire support, based in peterborough. They run the games on the site, I am not sure he actually owns the pt76's but he is your best bet on finding out who does.

i have no idea, i always assumed mine was anoriginal factory bracket.

i have looked at your threads for the dennis and now this,, you guys are amazing and an inspiration to others. keep up the good work!

long overdue post--- i have the pics of the aerial mounts i was asked for (sorry for the delay!) I also have finally managed to remove the front oil seal from the gearbox, what a total B***tard that was to get out! in the pics you will see the new one next to whats left of the old one,, -- and in the pic of the interior of the bell housing you can see the gap between the shaft and the cover-- (incidentally if you do have to change your own front seal--dont try to remove the oval cover- its not a flat cover--and theres some sort of oil feeder behind it that acts like a grub screw, it seems that it can only be taken out from behind. Mark---re- the engine ---look in classifieds theres a chap flogging one theres--I already have dibs on his seats though) 0h and my one still has the little hand fuel pump you want a picture of, i will get some for you and post them up. you can buy them on ebay germany for about £35-40 .

one munga at a time!!

yes thanks! :laugh: