Ron

Yes Jules, just stuff a ball up the tube. The trouble is, I work on so many different bikes that I forget some of the finer details. I recently rebuilt a couple of Matchless's and I had to lengthen the rod on one of them. It was only possible to do it the way I described because the ball can fall into the gearbox on a Matchless. Ron

Jules that cir clip has been a matter of discussion before. It is often missing and I can't really see what good it does anyway. These clutches are fairly heavy duty as built for the WO. If your clutch basket is a bit crowded because perhaps the new plates are a bit thick. You can leave one steel and one friction plate out of the assembly. It will give you a much lighter clutch and more room for it to free off. Also your clutch push rod needs to be the right length. If it's to short you can lengthen it by cutting it in half. Then add a ball bearing of the same diameter between the two halves. Any small adjustment to the length can be carried out by removing some metal from one of the halves (harden and temper the ends). Finally turn your attention to the clutch operating lever on the kick-start side. Loosen the clamp bolt and move the lever to the correct position. Ron PS this all takes longer to write down than to do!! (one finger typing)

Did someone mention a WS No11? Few and far between. My Morris was built during that BEF/ early North Africa period. and I have equipped it with an 11 set. I'm currently under way with a copy of the antenna base. Ron

Shudup you lot! I can't be there. I'm pissed right off! I blame Jack. Ron

Well I hadn't intended to make a start just yet. But the unique front mudguard was worrying me. It looks like someone had run into something, and the sides where popped out like gumboils. So I spent a couple of hours yesterday with a rubber mallet and the guard clamped to my workmate. Then I spent all day today working on it. I started with Nitromoors and a rope wire wheel in my angle grinder to strip the paint. Weld the un wanted number plate holes. Then some knocking up with some panel beaters hammers and dollies. Finally a skim of filler to cover the hammer marks. Tomorrow I will give it a coat of red oxide primer and then it's ready for some high build primer in the future. Ron

Are you working without a manual? Here are a couple of pages from a Big4 manual which is the same. Ron

Yes this sunny weather does inspire one to go for a ride. I like that service brown colour and had decided to spray my WD/L in that colour. But now I have found the inner chain case is untouched and Khaki green.....So that buggers that idea I think. Is your silencer an original egg shaped item? Very rare and very nice! Ron

Hi Frank. After the early stages of the war, number plates and traditional tail lights were replaced by these simple fag end lamps. But the best option for today's use by my thinking is to fit a period number plate and a reproduction Lucas MT110 tail lamp, as seen here on my M20. The lamps are available in great numbers on ebay from about £15. As opposed to an original, they come with a twin filament bulb for a stop light. Make sure you ask for a 6volt bulb though. Ron

Well the previous owner never had lights on the bike when he bought it, and ran it for a year with a daylight MOT. But he acquired this NOS 8" headlamp which he has passed on to me. Ron

Since this bike has already been mentioned on this forum and I have now collected it from Cambridgeshire. Here are a few pictures. The bike was last used in 1986 by the previous owner. He stripped the engine in that year and hasn't touched it since. There are lots of original features as well as a few wrong bits. The original paint on the inside of the chain case seems to be Khaki Green. I'll post updates on this thread as I progress. Ron

Are you guys aware of the Tilly register? Dedicated to the four makes plus the Austin 8 tourer. During any of your rebuilds or dismantling wrecks. If you come across a spare engine oil filler cap, please bear me in mind. Mine has a plastic one from a BMC A or B series, which has been on it for the 22 years I have owned it, and is really bugging me. Ron

Well with the parts Jan makes. It will be the correct MCR1. Ron

That picture was taken a couple of years ago during the rebuild Steve. Do you recognise this one? Today's sunshine inspired me to get an MOT in anticipation of the imminent riding season. Ron

Yes the Norton 16H and Triumphs used this clamp to the frame type MCR1 regulator. Jan from this forum can convert your standard type to the tube type. Here is my 16H and one of my Triumphs. Ron

One of my bikes needs an MOT and two more looming up. But I'm waiting for the politicians to decide if they're going to make historic vehicles exempt or not. So far they seem to be toying with three dates:- pre 1920- pre 1945- pre 1960. Ron

Yep, one of those Russian Urinals. Much favoured by German re-enacters. Ron

Is there a BS number on that tin of paint? 298? Why wouldn't he produce British olive drab? Ron

Well we've seen Lex lift the wheel with his ATS girlfriend aboard. We've also seen him drive the outfit from the chair and also seriously bend his forks. No! Don't trust him. Ron

Any British auto paint supplier should have the recipe for mixing a BS colour. But I would use one of the firms who are familiar with our hobby. Like:- Cromadex, Firwood, Frank Burberry. Personally I find Firwood paint the nicest to use. It's available from "Jeep Parts UK" but for some reason they don't stock brown. Lack of demand I gather. I might try Firwood direct. Ron

Jenkinov and Jimhull. I would save your money if I were you. The chances of finding any war time history are virtually nil. There might be some post war info in the Key Cards. You can get that information free on the BSA WD M20 site. Just ask the question with your frame and Engine numbers, someone will tell you if there is anything to know. Ron

Well done Graham. That looks like fun and you've done a good job scratch building it. My first Big 4 side-car was a reproduction and made to original drawing but from 3/4" ply. Then a friend found this original in India, which I shipped home. However it was in a sorry state. Unbelievably the timber is plained 1" thick hard wood. I bought 1" Ash and had it plained which gives a thickness of 7/8" to match the original timber. My neighbour who was a cabinet maker repaired it for me. Two strong men can just about lift the body. No wonder the original side-car set up calls for a 2" tow in. Ron

Graham, a WD/C hauling a Big 4 chair? You want be entering any speed trials then Ha Ha! Ron

Hello Adrian. It was indeed Nigel Ward who supplied me with the base part. Unfortunately he doesn't have the other part to copy. Also by studying the sparse information. It looks like the cup for truck installation is different than a carrier cup. Or at least there were different MK's. Cheers Ron

Hi I have this No 11 set wireless in my 1940 Morris PU. I'm looking for any information and pictures regarding the No1 toothed type aeriel base as used in this installation. I already have a replica of the base plate, and the top mushroom shaped insulator, but I need to replicate the upper tooth cup part. Thanks in advance. Ron

Thanks Ted for passing on your knowledge. Some 499 that I have used does indeed have a reddish hue to it. I'll check what's out there before committing....... Go bless Mrs Windsor! Ron PS. Has anyone had experience of Frank Burberry paint?