Ron

Ah thanks Chris. I didn't want to pester you any more!!  Ron😇

I'd still love to find a Niphan socket for my battery above if anyone can help.

Regards Ron

I can't disagree with your reaerch Lex. Never the less there are pictures of G3L's with a none screwed winged badge. But I find it hard to beleive that the riders bothered to paint them on. I guess this picture that Jan posted is a victory parade over your way?  Ron

Sorry Lex, but there are enough war time pictures of G3L's with a none screwed on "M"

Acording to Robert Derrick's (RIP) research, this first waterslide was fitted to the tank in 1937/38 (I don't know what model)

The second image is for WW2.  Ron

The G3L's shown with the flying M's are definitely either painted or transfers (I'd guess transfers which were available for 1937-38 bikes)

A stick on version is available from https://classictransfers.co.uk/product/matchless-6822lc-155x78mm/

Which I have on mine. Ron

I heard some weeks ago that there was to be a large NATO exercise in Poland. Ron 

This is someone else who asked a question and then just disappeared. It used to be known in the services as "Dumb Insolence"   Ron

As long as you have some slight free movement on at least one of each pair of knurled washers, will be sufficient. Ron

Well it's anoying when someone asks a questions and you reply and then get ignored. Even more so when you've taken the trouble to look an answer up . 🤥

Anything??  Ron

The obvious first thing is, have you tried different plugs? Also when earthing the plug, the end of the HT lead must be clear of the earth point. You should get a spark from just the end of the HT lead when held 1/8" or so from an earth point. Ron

PS I'm not sure how you test the HT with a multimeter? The spark generated by the magneto is in the Millivolt rage...Hence the shock if you touch it. Maybe someone with more electronics experience can advice?

Where's the picture?  Ron

I don't know if he still has anything left, but there is easy contact details on his website.  

https://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/indey.html

Ron

Hi Steve

I don't recall a saddle like that on any WD bike?  Ron

Yes that will do fine. I did think that it can't be that difficult to mould the rubber part. Ron

Presumably you will acquire one of those metal bases from R&R. So I've concentrated on the  rare rubber part. As a stop gap until one turns up, one could be turned in hardwood or aluminium and painted black. The measurements are near enough for a repro. The five grooves are about 1/8" deep  Ron

As far as I know, the B set antena's are the same with the exception of the ring brush guard fitted to those in a more vunarable positon. I'm getting ready for a weekend away, but I'll try and take some pictures/measurments tomorrow. Ron

A normal 1/2" x 26tpi nut with "reduced hex" will do it.  Ron

Here's an original on my Carrier. Can take close ups and measurements if you want. Ron

I'm sure that Triumph would have returned unissued  brand new WD bikes to the factory for a civilian make over. But I've never heard that they restored old used examples as did RE??  Ron

Yes I forgot about the pump. That means cut and re-weld the bracket. It looks like the top one is the best you have. I can't remember if Jan makes this chainguard or not? I'll ask him. Ron

What do your pump brackets measure?

you could just put a 3/8" spacer under the bracket to save cutting and welding.

Distance L is aprox 5 1/2" on both mine.

However the pump brackets are 15" on my 3SW and 16" on my 5SW.  Considering that my 5SW chainguard is about 3/8" longer than my 3SW. I would suspect that this one is a reproduction? 

What do your pump brackets measure?

PS have you got a 90 link chain? Maybe your wheel should move backwards a bit more?

Ron

Yep me too usually. I still haven't quite got the hang of those Napolionic measurements.

I'm sure you will make it work Pawel

BTW Engineers use mm. Dress makers use cm😆😆

Ron