thedawnpatrol

Sorry for the delay in posting an update on the restoration.

I have been very busy, despite these cold days and long dark nights, I have braved the workshop night after night to blast clean smaller parts and prime ready for assembly all sorts of components.

most notably I have been overhauling the gear box, which is in very good condition internally.

with research the colour for Morris Engines & Gearboxes was very close to 'Brunswick green' it's quite a striking colour !

I have also completely stripped the chassis, both axles off and in the middle of stripping the brake cylinder / shoes.

one question to ask is, what do you recommend I do to straighten this !

Must have been a hell of a fast reverse ?

more later......................

Pre planned, but I was very pleased to pick up a Lucas Headlight to complete the pair I need for the CS8

Tim, stall 237/238 was Old Bill. 07925577346

Jules

Certainly looking forward to the pictures Mike.

Jules

Just got my paperwork through from Paul Bourgaize, all looks good.

I was surprised to see we have to apply for a OGEL licence to take a vehicle over to the Channel Islands !

Anyway I set about registering on the http://www.spire.bis.gov.uk web site today.........what a mine field !

Not sure I have got it right, but I now have a licence number. For a type EU GEA 004 temporary export for exhibition or fair.

Is that all I need ? I thought they would need details of the vehicle ?

I'm going to phone them up tomorrow, but thought I'd ask on here..........

Jules

anyone have a spare set of MCC 6 cylinder +60 pistons they don't need ?

just thought I'd ask !

Jules

Yes, I'm booked in, taking the Humber.

Looking forward to it.

Jules

Thanks Paul for the very interesting link......

Though I can still find not a single mark on any of the leather, I can see it is the MKII version.

It's a shame as I would have loved to find a ww1 date.

Jules

Hi

Does anyone know how to tell if these leather bandoliers are WW1 or WW2 , I can not find any date or markings of any sort !

AG140 is the equivalent to C600 and Morris's straight 30 for the engine.

Thanks Degsy

Jules

Jules, to echo Paul, do you have the manual(s) for the truck(s) in question? Should specify oils and grades in that.

According to the Manual it says to use C600 in gear box, axles & steering box.

30HD in the engine

So what are the Morris oil equivolant ?

Jules

So, what are the recommended oils to use in a 1940's British truck transmission system ?

I have looked on the Morris Lubricants website and they offer :-

Golden Film AG90, AG140 and AG250, they all say the same, but are they ?

what do you use ?

cheers

Jules

Hi Dave

looking good, can I ask, as the photos give the impression that the paint is more of a Khaki Green No3..........but I know how these colours look completely wrong on the PC. SCC2 is really a brown colour...........

The original un touched areas on my Morris PU are Khaki Green No3 as a factory finish, which looks very much like your chassis now. also is the mix satin ? or Silk ? I have had mine mixed to dead matt.

Thanks for the updates, really enjoy reading and seeing the photos.

regards

Jules

Well the first couple of coats of paint are now on the chassis and axles .In the end after all the input and help from the good folk on the forum I decided to get the paint analysed/broken down by a local firm, who have been making paint since 1775:) .I paid an extra fee to have them break the paint down in their lab and try get an exact match to the original panel. They explained to me about pigmentation loss and other technical details due to its age . When I went to collect the paint they showed me a sample card they had prepared alongside the original panel , they wet the panel and the match was unbelievably very very close .The guy said they could keep blending but I was happy with what they had produced .The colour is matt in the pics it looks semi gloss , this is their version of SCC2 matched to the panel off the truck.Its supplied under the name of Transpeed (mixed with white spirit not thinners) which they supply to the bus companies, rail companies, airlines and coach builders .

Thanks for trying David, your right, I had a slow start trying to clear the windscreen of freezing fog !

could not have planned a worse day weather wise !

but none the less, I was happy that both the Humber and Jeep preformed well

Great photo's Tim

yes, I think we all enjoyed it, as they say, 'it stirred the oil' and we know these old vehicles don't like standing around for months on end !

Jules

i'll have to be careful how I word this !

yesterday I compared my Humber 4x4 Dipstick with my Mates Humber 4x4 dipstick........................

I have thought for sometime that I seam to be still burning a bit of oil, despite a total rebuild of my engine, it was suggested that I was over filling my oil levels, and this would explain the oil consumption ?

anyway, yesterday we compared side by side the two dipsticks and showed a very interesting question

as you can see, there is a good 1" difference between mine and my mates, mine being the higher level.............

can anyone explain why this might be ? or shed any light on the theory of burning oil if over filled ?

Cheers

Jules

yes, its mine, John.

Thanks for the update John, looks to be very original and complete, a lovely vehicle, and of course a pleasure to drive, Humbers must be one of the most enjoyable drives of the ww2 British vehicles.

Good luck with your sale.

Jules

Just seen this interesting looking Humber on milweb, only one photo, anyone got any more info about this vehicle ?

Rick,

It looks like a blazer badge, Metropolitan Police ?

All the best mate

Jules

I might have an original one of the floor sections.................i'll take a photo of it over the weekend.

 

also, just asking, did you clean out the tiny pressure relief hole in the master cylinder? it's easily overlooked as I did with my C8 then wondered why the system was pressurising !

 

Jules

is this what your after ?

I might have an original one of the floor sections.................i'll take a photo of it over the weekend.

also, just asking, did you clean out the tiny pressure relief hole in the master cylinder? it's easily overlooked as I did with my C8 then wondered why the system was pressurising !

Jules

Does anyone have dimensions of the drivers foot well please, the floor plate that the clutch and brake peddles come up through? I think there is a hinged cover for filling the brake master cylinder on it.

 

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this is what I'm talking about.................

is that 'Kure-Rust' one of the Hammerite range Gordon ?

thanks

Jules

Sorry Richard, that was me being dull, I hadn't quite picked up that Jules just meant the side cover. I shouldn't try to do several tasks at once. I've successfully repaired similar covers and damaged sumps by floating them in braze.

 

I presume the ceramic is similar to the epoxy, being a strong permanent thin coating which would adhere to all the surfaces.

 

You could as you say make new cover, perhaps of a more corrosion resistant material; though I still think a good quality antifreeze would inhibit it enough.

 

Jules, I assume your worry is that some of the pitting might be a bit more 'through' than it appears?!

Hi Sean, there are certainly no pin holes as I have checked it with a strong light and nothing shone through, however, I was concerned that the metal is thinner in spots.

Thanks to all for your thoughts......

Jules

Thanks Wally & Richard,

Yes, your right, wax oil is probably not the. Best idea.

Tinning it might be the best, though I suspect this will be as expensive as having a new panel made ?

Thanks chaps

Jules

Having removed the water jacket panel from my MCC 6 cylinder engine, like always it looked rusty on the inside, I have blasted it clean and though there are no obvious pin holes, it is slightly pitted.

So what I am considering is painting the inside (wet side) of the panel with something like wax oil ?

Can you recommend anything on the market that would seal the steel, and give a protective layer that would also stand up to hot water temperature ?

Thanks

Jules

Out of interest how good or otherwise is the supply of spares for Morris Commercials such as the CS8, PU and C8?

Ivor is right ! There are some mechanical parts, nothing 'new old stock' so to speak, but any tin work is a no no, you have to be good at fabrication !

But that's why we enjoy the challenge !

Jules