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Posts posted by thedawnpatrol
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I have been Nursing a pair of original Aero Windscreens, ever since I bought my Morris CS8 project, 8 years ago, I was told they were the right ones.
Now, as I start to piece together the project, I have found that they are in fact too wide, by about 2".
So, i will have to get two made, but does anyone have any idea what they may fit ? they are surplus to me.
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Does anyone know where I might locate NOS parts to overhaul the water pump on my C8, or even a replacement pump?
I need the carbon seal(X.25507), the felt washer(QA.11020) and the main shaft( V.1795).
Or the complete water pump (V.16700)
I send all my water pumps to Holman engineering, they do a great job at a reasonable price, they have done several Morris pumps for me.
Jules
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Apologies if been asked before,did a quick search but couldnt find anything. Have a woollen RAF OA tunic missing its label,has KC buttons and was wondering please in order to ID/date it,what the differences were between a WW2 and 1950s made tunic?
Many Thanks.
There is no difference between the mid war OA tunic and the 1950's one, the early war tunic had 'cuff' sleeves, a seam around the lower arm about 5 inches up.
But after 1941 they did away with this, and the tunic stayed the same until late 1950's.
Most wartime tunics have a silk or printed shoulder eagle, whereas the post war tunics has an embroidered eagle sometimes on a dark background.
All tunics had the white cloth label and were dated. In my experience, people remove a post war dated label so as to sell it as WW2.
Post some pictures if you can.
Jules
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Ok chaps,
Point taken, I will push on with trying to find a modern seal.
I will let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Jules
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Thanks chaps,
I went into my local bearing shop today, though they could source a fit, both chaps there were surprised I was not happy with a felt seal as per original...... They said, cut it tight, use plenty of granite grease and jobs a good one........
What do you recon ?
Cheers
Jules
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Hi
I'm just putting my MCC 6 cylinder engine back together, the timing cover has a felt bearing seal where the crank pulley passes through, I'd rather replace this with a modern rubber seal, can anyone tell me what size this needs to be or better still a modern part number for one of these seals please.
Cheers
Jules
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Thats the one :tup::
I have contacted them, they can supply the rubber bushes for the link arms, and I'm waiting to know if they will supply the cylinder seals.
This morning I started to strip a spare one, just to see how it goes, getting the two end caps off is a real pain, as it is really hard not to damage the griping pattern on them, either in the vice or with stillsons
Then I managed to get the core plug out to expose the shaft, I tried a half hearted tap with the punch to test for any movement, but not a bit of it, I could try harder, but the original link said that it had to be 'pressed' out, that's probably beyond me, as I don't have a press......another trip to machinemart I expect !
Jules
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yes, this is the one I was referring too, very informative, and gives you the confidence to 'have a go' !
Here is a link to an article about changing the seals on a Luvax shock absorberhttp://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax.htm
Andy
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thanks Both
there is a good informative account of rebuilding these on the net, I came across last night, as you say Richard, its a matter of removing the 'core plug' and the seal/gasket behind then pressing the spline out..................
so in theory i'd need to source a new seal and core plug..................
Job for the weekend then !
cheers
Jules
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Welcome Nick, I will look forward to seeing your Morris.
Jules
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Hi Chaps
Found these at work today, the two khaki ones are dated 1943, the other khaki and two blue ones have very faint stamps.
All have slightly different staps.
They look a bit like the DDay issue life belts, but I am no expert, anyone know better?
Also these to white belts, with little pouches sewn on, dated 1945.
All further information greatly accepted.
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I'm sure like a lot of old vehicle owners, I always prime the pump, with the primer arm before starting if it has stood for a while to save strain on the battery.
Jules
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Yes, I can confirm that it is covered by a Dunlop patent number.
All of those grips and later types were made by Dunlop.
Julian.
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Really interesting Mike, thanks for sharing that.
Jules
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Ah yes Barry, that's right ! I found it strange, but I was told that brakes are far more efficient these days and apparently it is more economical to slow down in this way................
Jules
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They look Bedford to me, certainly morris , fordson and Humber all have the same base, but a tubular and sprung back frame.
Jules
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When blasting wheel drums, is it advisable to mask the brake shoe rubbing surface, or would it not hurt to give it a key ?
Cheers
Jules
Also, I have read on here also that it's not advisable to blast clean leaf springs, is this a no no..."...........
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Let's hope for drier event this year, though it was good fun helping to pull less able vehicles out of the mud. !
Looking forward to it
Jules
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Dave, that's very brave of you to tackle the starter and Generator ?
I have both mine to look at from the PU, I'd like to think I could overhaul them, never done either before, what should I be looking at to check ?
Jules
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I remember getting one from Belcher engineering when I had my WOT2
Jules
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Ah thank you for that Mike, I have not checked them yet..................
Jules
Aero Windscreens
in MV Chatter
Posted
someone said they might be early Bedford MW ?
Jules