thedawnpatrol

So the ball won't on a Norton ? Ron, please confirm that, before i try.....................

Again thanks for your much apreachated help

J.

Thanks Ron, thats really good news, i was about to order a retaining ring today, but wont now, yes, looking at my old plates, there are definatly thinner, so i will leave one out also the steel plate out. good idea about the push rod, can i not put in a ball baring in first, then the rod instead of cutting it ?

Great..................job for tonight then !

J.

Hello Ron

Yes, i do have the manual, i have just come in from the workshop, firstly, the clutch was not working before i took it apart, there seemed to be no resistance on the clutch leaver, anyway having taken it all apart, the first one i have ever touched, i decided that it did not work because all the 5 drive rings were so worn that they were almost flat, these were the old, original ? inserts.

So i ordered a set of 5 new replacement bonded rings from NORVIL, all very good, and proceeded to place then one by one in place, however when i got to the last drive ring, that just fitted on the remaining shaft, followed by the final pressure plate, again just

about on the shaft, i then made a mistake, and fitted the end cap with the 3 springs and screws.........no good.

so out came the manual and seeing the exploded diagram, i realised there is suposed to be a sprung retaining clip that holds all the plates in before the outer cap goes on ....................this was never on it ! so i'll have to order one, i can see the groove where it should go, with two of the rings off but i can not see how i can push it on as all the rings take to much space ?

Any more advise ?

Jules

Sorry Guys another question, never having touched a bike clutch before................

Pleased to say that my new disks arrived yesterday, so do i just slide them all back on and tighten up the 3 screws as tight as possible........... or is it a case of 'suck it and see'

any advive gladly received

jules

Thanks WD

Phoned Norvil yesterday, and a brand new set arrived today ! Fantastic great advise as always.

Cheers

Jules

Heres another question, i have concluded that my clutch is completly worn out, all the plates are ok though.

would it pay me to get all new, from where or try and get the cork inserts and do it myself ?

Jules

Thanks for all your advice guys, Jan, i like your idea, hope you don't mind me copying it, it will do until i find the correct MCR1

Cheers

Jules

Am i right in thinking the early Voltage regulators were standard, a Lucas part on all british bikes ?

they appear to be fitted on the rear cross tube above the tool box. On my 16h, it had been removed and was on a bracket behind the seat, i want to fit it back where it should be but cant work out how it attaches to the frame tube ? anyone got any good photos showing how it fixes ?

This is what it should look like, though the one in this photo has two cutouts to fit over the tube, mine has two 'feet' is it the wrong one ?

Cheers

Jules

Having nearly finished my 16h resto, i'm looking at my original seat, the frame is fine, and to be fair the black rexine seat cover is ok, i'd rather keep the original................but...............

the round metal studs and the spring clips that hold the cover to the frame are either rusted away or very poor,

anyone know a sorce of replacement clips and studs ?

Cheers

Jules

Is this a C4 ? but whats the house body on it ?

Jules

My clutch is not working !

Even before i stripped it down, for no reason, after working ok, it suddenly stopped, leaver pulls, cable pulls arm and that moves, but will not dissengauge clutch?

Having stripped it down for rebuild, i had to take the outter plate off, undid the 3 sprung bolts, and carfully removed the whole unit as one, the small plunger, came out, and when i was ready to put it all back, i did. i did not seperate the clutch plates.

the exploded drawing in the manual is poor, it does not even show the plunger.

any clues to look for ?

Cheers for any help

Jules (motorcycle newbie)

Ok guys,

so you have found my hide out ! better go count my wheels tomorrow then !

Hi All

Just had to share this with someone ! just happened upon some 'Props' for our school play, 'A journeys end'

a rack of WW1 British tunics for the boys, about 10 in total, most, 1922 pattern, one or two new reproduction, but one, original WW1 ! hired in from a 'Props' company........................bet they don't know its true value, shame to hire this original gear out still !

Sorry not the best photos

Jules

Thats interesting Pete, and i'd like to think that is the reason.

However, just to put a 'spanner in the works' the MCC C8 original i had was dated 1950, but that had copper mesh...........

but as you say, they were perhaps using up old stock ?

Can anyone else confirm Petes suggestion ?

Jules

On another question re Canvas, why do some vehicles have a copper gauze mesh as a window, and some have plastic/plexiglass ?

On my original Morris C8 cab canvas, the back window was mesh, but why when there was clearly plastic available ?

Jules

Thanks 79 x 100, that all ties in nicely.

Lovely photo Peter

Would that date to around 1940 ?

Thanks Chaps, that all sounds interesting, i don't know if the other markings on it are relevent, or just made up by a previous owner, but they have some age to them.

'80 YB 83' on the plates ?

Jules

Found this under layers of paint on the rear mudguard on my 1940 Norton 16h any ideas ?

Found this 'old' photo and wondered if it was still about ?

Jules

Thanks Guys,

Very nice vehicles Ron !

Yes, I have a WW2 1943 dated tent which is Chocolate Brown, and i agree Robert, you do see old photos with different shades of canvas, so is there a right or wrong ?

Jules

Sorry if this has been covered in the past?

But in addition to the many threads about 'what colour should i paint my 1943 truck' haw about the colour of the canvas tops on soft skins ?

We all strive to get the paint colour just right, and the tread on the tyres, but what about the canvas, seat covers, and tilts ?

Now, studying the wartime photos, many show the camo paint over the canvas, but if this canvas was the same colour as we get these days, ie dark green, the lines would not show up as much, i think that British canvas was more of a Brown, Khaki colour ?

again, with no colour photos this is hard to prove, but can i invite anymembers with original WARTIME tilts/covers to post photos here as colour samples...........

I'm looking into new canvas for my Humber & CS8 and want to get it right, just like the paint and tyres.

There are different shades of canvas available on the market.

I'll add some of my samples later.

Jules

I remember years ago finding unopened bundles of "window" in the ditch under the hedge at RAF Enstone!

T

Me too Matey ! those were the days

Jules

THanks Rick

Well, i do know that i found it near the village of Rancourt on the Somme, (near Combles) deep in a very large wood, and i have found that the 50th heavy artillery regiment were there and part of that regiment was the 3rd Baden field Artillery...................................so that explains the 50 R and the 3B

So thats a start...........?

Jules

Very nice, and a real investment too !

Jules