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Posts posted by andyroo
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After half an hour I've given up trying to explain in words.
I can show you in 30 seconds though as I made one up for myself when I had my
Saladin suspension and wheel station in bits.
Simply its used to turn a shaft to line up a tapperd hole so a tapperd bolt
will screw in to stop the shaft from turning.
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all scrap yards dont pay out in cash anymore ! trying to cut down on metal thefts :-)
There is an exemption to that. They can still pay out cash to those with no fixed address........
Andy
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I bought my Ferret on the 25th March 1994. As at June 2012 I've done 18588 miles. So far it’s had two full strips down restorations. The last around 10 years ago. Apart from maintainace I have done nothing to the engine or gearbox/transferee box. I have rebuilt all the wheel stations twice and bevel boxes once. All the bushes in the suspension were change at the last strip down. To make life easier, I've replaced the useless tubes in the exhaust with some flexi stainless, fitted electronic ignition and electric fuel pump.
Andy
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From my Old Comrades web forum:
Saladin?
Not Saladin.
The Clinometer - the bracket that holds the bubble is the same as on Saladin.
The rest of the bracket - the range gear, not Saladin.
Andy
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Taken from the training pamphlet No 13. Saladin Armoured car.
76mm Ammunition.
a) Shell HESH with fuse L19A1
b) Shell HE/T with fuse No. 410 Mk 2/2 or L17A1.
c) Shell smoke base ejection with fuse time No. 390
d) Shot cansiter
Hope the above helps.
Andy
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This looks remarkably like the Champ vacuum tank also fitted to the RB44
I have one of these fitted in my MK6 Saracen for the vision block wipers. They used to work well but the one way valve has become a two way valve
and needs replacing. Not that I need wipers when on the road
Andy
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Hey, thats not fair, you've got "SPACE" arround your engine.........
I solved all my fule pump problems on Ferret, Saracen and the Saladin by going electric.
Andy
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According to the manual, head lamp alignment is as follows:-
114 Two horizontal and one vertical adjustment screws are fitted for headlight alignment. The adjusters are accessible through cut-out (3) on the panel.
I can try and rember to scan the page tomorrow at work for you, however as uploading to the fourum for me is a pain I would have to put it somewhere
with a direct link to it.
Andy
preveiw post not very good now, light green on a light background!!
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Can anyone tell me..
to do the Fluid fly wheel
1/ Remove transmission, then gearbox
or
2/ Remove Engine, separate gearbox and remove
again thanks for all help on this one
Hi,
You will find it very hard to remove the gearbox from the engine from the back. The cross shaft that transferes the gearchange peddle operation from the lefthand side to the right hand side gose between the bell housing and the gearbox. So you only have an inch or so of movment. The splins that go into the flywheel are arround two inch long.
Much better to remove the engine. Although this looks a daunting task, its quite quick. Sadly, I have done this several times with my Saracen.
It will make changing the steering hydrolic cylinder a lot easyer as well.
Andy
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I've had my RB for arround 18 months now and not had any issues so far (touch wood).
I cannot see how a larger pully will help. If its working as you say it is, it could
be a worn pump. Its where I'd start to look.
Andy.
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Keith,
I've done this job myself. Bought the dowls from Banisters.
I realy dont think they will be mild steel. They wont be hard, as they would just sheer, hece you can cut them. They will be tough though.
If I was makeing any for myself, I would use EN24T as a minimum spec steel (EN42 better). Some cap head bolts would do the job. Get some that are next size up and turn them down to be a very good sliding fit.
Andy
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Update.
Its been some time since I even touched the Saracen. Over winter she has been a storage shed. Anyway, stuff all cleared out the back and a new found enthusiasum has been found I've made the decition to change the generator since I've tried 3 panels and still no joy with the charging system.
That means removing the front armour (again ), the radiator (again ), and the fans (again ).
In the procsess of removing the generator I lost one of the clamps in the sump of doom. A new generator was put in, a new clamp was made, the one that was lost was then found. The pully replaced, only to find out that the generator now wont revolve!! It did earlyer. Remove generator and discover the problem. Unfortuanly I'd knocked it over and damaged the air intake which ment the fan was catching the fan cowl. Swoped the cowl over from the generator that wont work which also revealed why it had stoped working. Where the brushes are is all corroded, so is easly fixed at a later date.
Anyway, almost all is now back together. Fans, radiator, front grill, front cowl and air filters. If the rain keeps away tomorrow I've got the engine covers to put on, oils to check and lights to check and hopefully can take her of for a short drive.
Feel free to wish me luck
Andy
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It is very impressive what you have achieved getting the engine out and fixed. I am interested in the hoist arrangement as I probably need to do something similar (would buy a 434 but no where to keep it according to the Boss) Is there a bar spreading the load/fixture on the roof by the turret?
Rich C
Rich,
The RSC is resting on some wood in front of the turret. Not to spread the load as the roof can cope with the load but to make the RSC more level.
The Channel dose bend with a B80 hanging on it!!
Andy
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just noticed the plug caps, what plugs are you running in the old girl...
Sorry for a time its taken to reply......... Tonight is the first time I've looked at the thread since I last posted.
Spark plugs are Denso Iridium, though for the life of me I cannot remember the part number. I have them in the Ferret and Saladin as well.
Andy
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You can put a front right on the rear left and vise versa. However, both front bevel boxes on Saladin have a differant cover plate that supports the hand brake.
The center bevel boxes can be on eather side.
If you've got a bevel box in bits, thats a good time to put a filler plug and dip stick into it.
I've done this on both the saladin front bevel boxes.
Andy
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Its just about 3" deep here in Breadsall. Been out in the RB useing all B roads.
It shouldn't, but it still amaze's me the number of idiots out there totaly unprepared.
Andy
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and they shatter after a while.
Wrong grade of stainless then.
Andy
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My Striker also has extra armour under the area where the driver sits. It always amuses me that the commander has to sit on top of the fuel tank though
Andy
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Andy, did your new material seals work? Polypropylene I believe you said.
Thanks again for the help.
Regards,
Bob
I do have some new seals fitted which I had made to try and overcome the problem of the leeking. At the end of November when Saladin went into hibenation, they were not leeking. It will be April before she gets her first run of the year though, so I am unable to say how sucsesfull they are. What I have found is, that once they start to weep they don't stop.
Andy
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Pop up box's are irritating, can you turn it off?
Nothing I do in Opera seems to remove it untill I click it. I realy dont want to be botherd with clicking another X
Andy
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B80, fitted to Saladin and Saracen.
Andy
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They look good. I replaced all 4 of mine in 2002. I had them made in 16 gauge stainless, cost me £1175 inc vat. A lot of money but well worth it.
Andy
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I'm guessing the deliberate mistake was the engine support bracket? Its there, then its not??
I got one of the oil pipes in the wrong place. The engine support bracket has to come of to enable you to get the engine in arround the hydrolic pump.
Fortunatly I noticed the oil pipe before the engine went in and became a pain in the a** to correct due to the fact that there is not a lost of space to turn a spanner.
Just to update, engine runs. Seems fine, however I now have charging problems. I've tryed 2 generartor pannels with no sucsess, so its front armour off and take out the rad and fans and replace the genny. Project temproary on hold due to other comitments.....
Andy
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though it doesn't lose fluid (unlike the fluid flywheel!!!!)
Now is the time to take the engine out then and sort out the fluid flywheel!!
Andy
Saracen - where are my front Bevel box fillers?
in British Vehicles
Posted
You dont have any bevel box fillers on the inside. For some reason, later and upgraded Saracens had the filler removed. You have to fill the bevel boxes from the outside. However, the center boxes can be accessed from inside. You remove a plate thats held on with 4 bolts. I've added a filler and dipstick to that plate so at least the hard work is reduced by a 1/3.
Andy