TooTallMike

What are the two silver things in front of the windscreen wipers on the modern one?

Mike / Vince.

 

Looks good :tup: and I can only dream on at this time - Can't see mine being completed for a while.

 

Markheliops

 

 

 

Cheer up old bean - it took us about 2 hours from rolling it under to having it completely bolted-up (sans wheels of course!). Now we know what we're doing it'll be even quicker on yours. You get the bogie ready with Shorty and we'll convene once I'm back to re-fit it. Piece of pee. :tup:

The Israeli Halftrack in our group has a filled bullet hole in the front wing and another on the rear end. I'll get some photos.

All done and happy. We finished putting the wheels on last night and did an 80 mile test-drive today :-D (see thread on Frostbite Run). Vibrations have significantly reduced, it's quieter and the ride is smoother. Unfortunately I can now hear a small squeak from behind the cab which was probably masked before :roll:. There is also a grinding from the front end which I think is a misaligned Rzeppa joint. I need to re-tighten all of the bogie bolts and give it a coat of paint, but otherwise it's on to CVRTs when I get back from my final week in Italy.

Some photos:

Thus saving me the effort of doing a write up. Excellent work Grasshopper. Some photos then:

The syncromesh blocking rings in the series Gearbox are "Yellow metal"

 

I thought I remembered thrust washer type components in yellow metal from when I rebuilt my series 1 'box. So how do they get away with using EP oil?

After a series of interesting conversations with representatives of various oil suppliers we've established that we require a mild EP oil. Apparently this will have less of an effect on the components at risk.

If I remember correctly it is a mid '60s truck and trailer which was re-cabbed and re-engined in the '80s. I'll need to ask the owner as I've only been involved with it as a tillerman. It was bought directly from the fire dept. The truck was withdrawn because of a small crack in the chassis - nothing serious but enough for it to fail re-certification.

The main 2-stage ladder is 100' and the truck also carries another 5 or 10 ground ladders of various sizes as well as a diesel generator, smoke ventilation fans, floodlights and other fire-fighting equipment. There is no pump as this type of truck is used in conjunction with a separate pump apparatus. A hose is permanently installed running up the ladder to a monitor at the top. The truck has a crew of 7.

The rear of the trailer is equipped with a small cabin with an air assisted steering wheel. This allows the truck to manouevre in very tight spaces and makes reversing a doddle (if you have a good crew!) The rear steering is completely independent of the front and can be pinned for long distance driving.

- Mike

How spooky is that? I just made reference to Grasshopper (thinking of the Kung Fu TV series) in another thread, then realise there is a member by that name. No offence intended.

 

That's exactly where his name came from :-). One of our guys called him that because he felt he'd taken him under his wing. Bless :n00b:

Whats wrong with those ones then?

 

Nothing necessarily, the chap who's buying is just considering all the options.

Talking of which, we're looking for one of these if anyone has any leads?

Any condition considered from basket case to fully restored.

We've seen the ones on Milweb and CMV.

Cheers - Mike

Any pics of the fire truck??A mate in work saw it driving through the Purley way,with what he said were two army trucks behind??

 

That was the one, with the 2 halftracks struggling to keep up.

All series landrovers use ep90 for main gearbox and transfer box. Classic range rovers with 4 speed manual boxes use engine oil and 90/110/defenders use ATF in the main box and ep90 in the transfer box. :roll: They all use ep90 in the diffs aswell.

 

Thanks - my stupid :blush: - only been playing with 110s recently...

Incidentally and by way of getting back to my original track - do series LR gearboxes not have any yellow metal components?

My landy ambulance had EP90 stencilled on the diffs.

 

Diffs yes, but I thought Dexron or similar for the gearbox?

Isn't it something to do with the gearbox oil pump or have I invented that? :dunno:

Ouch! Have you spoken with Morris Lubricants on both price and phospor bronze issues?

 

I can only say I've come across some diff thrust washers that have been fairly well etched and looked more like emental cheese.

 

Also something to consider is that the modern stuff is so thin and "runny" that it becomes a trade off between ultimate lubrication and ultimate retainability in diffs/boxes. I'm begining to favour the treacle (traditional straight blend) :whistle: :dunno: :dunno:

 

Perhaps you should persuade Mark to try some viscosity additive - not yet tried it myself, but said to reduce loss through worn shafts/seals etc.

 

Morris Lubricants say EP90 is no good but they're the ones holding the price list...

Over on Steelsoldiers, people are saying that a GL5 oil with MT1 & MIL-PRF-2105 rating is compatible with yellow metals. I'm going to ask Comma tomorrow when they call back.

In my landys I have used 20/50 for the engines and ep90 for gearbox.

For the amount of miles we do as MV owners, it would take years to wear out bearings/gears/rings etc.

Another thing, I have always put unleaded in my landys, even without unleaded heads with no problems at all.

 

EP 90 in a Landy gearbox?

Well this is an ongoing discussion. Markheliops and I have been speaking to Comma this afternoon about SAE 90 vs EP 90 and the results are still inconclusive. (Referring to the use of EP oil in 1940-era gearbox, transfer box and diffs.)

Does anyone have any actual, factual experience of EP90 degrading phosphor-bronze and similar components? Searches on the net and conversations bring up lots of opinions but none seem to be backed up with experience (thus far theoretical chemistry hasn't hacked it with me because no-one can tell me what timescale and precise conditions they're talking about - eg. if it takes 4000 years for a thrust washer to have all it's phosphorous leached out it's not going to be a big issue for me...)

This is important because we each need nearly 50l of oil and SAE 90 is around 4 times the price of EP90 :shake:

Just so you know, it has a French post-war front bumper and the wrong wiper control valve, but other than those tiny criticisms it looks REALLY good and it says it's never been in civilian use which goes to explain the condition.

That's probably a £10k truck if you're thinking of making an offer... :yawn2:

We did the New Year's Day Parade in London today. We took 2 halftracks and our group's American aerial ladder fire truck. There was also a representation from the Heathrow / Staines area MVT group. 700,000 of my fans came to adore me 8-) and the rain held off almost completely.

The seat risers, seats, roof hoop, canvas roof, windscreen and hinges are interchangeable. The back panel is the same apart from the mounting arrangement. The floor panel is very similar but with more holes for levers etc.. The side panels are the same except on the WLF they have an angled cut-away at the front lower edge to accommodate the fuel tanks. The scuttle and dash are completely different.

The back half of my spare Danish WLF cab turned out to be a converted Jimmy one.

Various of these cab components were used on a variety of soft-top trucks. For example, the windscreen assembly also fits the Autocar.

Hope this helps?

The front wheels on my old Jimmy and the WLF are held on using the internal/external sleeve nuts. That's what they're designed for. They are countersunk so they centre correctly and IMHO should be perfectly safe as long as they are done up correctly.

If you put the wheel outside the sleeve nuts and then use the conventional nuts to hold the wheels on you'd have to take it all apart in order to double up the front wheels.

Just my 10c. Others are entitled to disagree...

I wasn't meaning to sound negative about Your work Tootall , I hope with all those new seals and Gaskets and things being tightened up correctly that there wouldn't be a chance for any leaks to be Honest ...its just that everyone says that MV's just seep or ooze or drip no matter what you do , that the only difference is they do those things faster when both the Vehicle and the air temps are high...... unless the things that are meant the have oil or fluids in them are empty .

A

 

No worries ;-), anyway I think the best I can realistically hope for is that it should leak less than before :roll:

Some time I'll have to post a photo of the oil slick on the road outside my house resulting from years of parking tucks, Land Rovers and assorted other old cr@p out there.

Hey, those rear springs have one serious SET in them - reckon you'll be doing the fronts just to get back onto a level keel, sailor (not)!

 

I did the fronts when I first got the truck so this is just completing the process. I think the arch of these springs is a good two to three inches greater than before. The ride height and stance may change considerably! She should handle like a sportscar now 8-)

Hope you are going to paint it before putting back Mike.

 

Welcome back

 

The plan is to jet-wash it with detergent before it goes back underneath, fit it, then spray it green just before the wheels go on. I normally spend an inordinate amount of time prepping and priming parts before I refit them but frankly there's no point on the rear bogie as it'll be covered in road dirt and oil from the crane gear and rear winch in no time :roll:

abn - I'm hoping it won't consume any oil at all now! I think I got through a jerrycan of oil in the two rear diffs in 400 miles to France and back last year. :oops2:

All the torque rods were shot so I'm very pleased I swallowed the cost and opted for swapping the lot. It is going to be very interesting to see how it drives after all this work. Probably won't make a blind bit of difference...

Well, while Grasshopper has wallowed in domestic bliss :hug:, some of us have been working hard in the fog.

I now have the diff gaskets and internal and external seals done. the diffs are re-fitted. All of the old torque rods were cut off and the metalastic bushes removed (no mean feat :argh:). The new torque rods are loosely installed and the spring seat pivots are back on with new grease seals. Today I refitted the brake chambers (some new diaphragms) and newly re-made road springs and U-bolts. Apparently tomorrow is a day off ( :dunno: :-() but on Boxing Day I will be re-building and re-installing the inter-axle prop. and then looking at the brake plumbing :nut:. After that it'll be more-or-less ready to roll back under the truck.

I've attached some photos but the light is so poor they don't really do it justice. I'm really pleased at progress thus far after such a long break from it.

Saeson's greetings to all. ;-)

Good to hear you're on the mend Neil. :tup: