Old Bill

I have now completed the last bits. Inside the casting are two bosses which could not be added to my wooden core as they would have prevented us from lifting it out or, indeed, the sand core when the time comes. At the bearing end, there is a grease hole to the bearing. This is drilled down the middle of an internal boss. At the other end is a boss through which screws a long bolt to prevent the gland nut from turning. The only way these can be done is with some loose pieces which are lifted out before the main core is removed. The top of the mould needs to be left flat so that the sand can be strickled off so the loose piece must sit in a rebate. Good old Bridgeport! The resin cut quite nicely. Then a piece of wood cut to fit. The end was curved to form half of the boss and a pin was fitted to secure it in place. I took the same approach at the other end. This time, the lift-out piece was bigger so I glued some extra on the end before pinning it into position and then dressing it to shape with the Dremel and glass paper. The two loose pieces from the boxes held back to back to demonstrate the shape of the boss. All done! They are now on their way to the foundry for the moment of truth! Steve 🙂

For a bit of light relief, I have made the catch for the gearbox cover. We have one complete cover and the the lid without catch for this one. I could have robbed the other box but chose to make up the replacement now to save having to do it for the next one. The catch works by pushing it down through a slot in the flange on the gearbox lid and turning it a bit before releasing when the spring holds it firm. A nice little fabrication. And the same for the cross-bar. A quick rummage in the mixed springs box and ready for some paint. In the mean time, Dad has been pushing on with the horrible cleaning job of the box itself. The time has come to turn it over so that he can get to the bottom. Fortunately, it fits the engine stand perfectly at a nice working height. Looking a lot better! You may remember that we fitted the engine and clutch not so long ago and I was concerned that the clutch centre was so proud that we couldn't fit the spring. Dad had fitted new leather but, by the way of these things, the thickness was a bit variable and it had pushed upwards around the screws so I determined that it would have to be machined to true it up and thin it down a bit. The challenge was how to do it as machining leather is not something I have tried! I found that the gap bed of the Colchester left just enough room but with no holes in the casting, I couldn't bolt it to the face plate. I therefore made a spigot for the headstock and pulled it up with a draw bolt. I didn't expect it to have to produce any torque, just to turn the assembly truly. This worked quite well so I set about mounting the angle grinder in the toolpost which was set over at 10°. It was a bit of a lash-up but firm enough. I did give it a good tug before proceeding! With the lathe on bottom speed and a grade 60 sanding disc in the grinder I traversed the toolpost. It worked well although the dust was a bit grim! I made a number of 20 thou cuts until I was just about to kiss the highest rivet and stopped there. When I tried it in the flywheel, it certainly got a grip but did not go in as far as I had hoped. However, I daren't take any more off as the leather is now quite thin in places. The spring will have to be compressed to solid height to allow me to fit it and that is going to be an interesting exercise in itself. I am hoping that the first use will bed the leather in and allow me to fit the tensioning nut properly. Getting it into gear for the first time may be a challenge but we shall see! Steve 🙂

We have had a chat about this one and suspect you may be right as the air would get beneath the whole area and unstick it in a much more gentle fashion. One to try for next time! Thanks! Steve🙂

Hi Barry. I bow to Adrian's judgement on this one. It certainly took some shifting to get it moving! The first few hefty wallops had no effect and I suspect that screws would have pulled out of the MDF. I haven't tried plaster of paris for pattern making but suspect that it might have broken up if given this treatment. That is something else to keep up my sleeve. Steve 🙂

My good friend Adrian has very kindly sorted out the resin part of the job for me. The objective was to use my wooden replica of the core I want to produce to create a mould from which sand versions can be made. First job was to paint the wooden bits with a releasing agent. Then level up the core box on the bench top. And mix up the resin and hardener by weight on the scales. Pour into the gap all round and let it harden off. Once hardened off, the battens were removed. Excess resin was sanded off until the face was flat. Then a holewas drilled through the resin until the core could be reached. The hole allowed the core to be drifted out. And there we have it. A resin lined core box. I will have to repair the areas around the holes but that is nothing. A couple of removable pieces to add and then we will be ready to pour. Thanks, Adrian! Steve🙂

A bit more progress today. I have knocked up a couple of boxes from some scrap timber that was lying about. I then fitted some alignment strips to the core block to hold it in position and filled a lot of the cavity around it with offcuts of timber to save on resin. And then there were two! Next move is to pour the resin, possibly later this week. Back to the Peerless now! Steve 🙂

Just posting a few more pics but I am very pleased to read Terry's comments again. I didn't get around to trying the flame test last year but have continued to ponder the mixture. I have a selection of jets that I have turned up so must have a go next time we go for a play! In the mean time, I have been pattern making again. On the front of the engine, there is a casting which carries the outer fan bearing. We call it the 'onion casting' for some reason and, as you can see below, it was pretty poorly. A friend tried a TiG welder on it but the results were awful and we determined to make a new casting instead. I started on the pattern but then we were fortunate to find a good casting at the Banfield sale and that is what is fitted to the lorry. In the mean time, I passed the half-made bits onto Tomo to finish. Just the other day, our pal in New Zealand, who so kindly gave us the differential, asked if he could have a casting as the one for his lorry is rotten as well so I thought I had better finish the pattern off. Tomo had not got around to doing it and kindly agreed that I could have the bits back so I am on with the job again! This is a most cussing awkward shape and has been a real puzzle over how to do it. I eventually reached the conclusion that I need a full-diameter plug with a core to drop in which has part of its surface higher by the thickness of casting to generate the hole in the side. First step, therefore, was to turn up the plug using, as is my wont, a laminated MDF block. Getting the shape I wanted was a nightmare and in the end, I cut a template from platicard with some key dimensions marked on it. MDF dust is pretty horrible at the best of times and turning the stuff in a confined space was nightmarish. I couldn't see for most of the time for the dust on my specs! I brought out my dust extractor and used my respirator to make it liveable. The centre one here is the main plug. The question next was how to produce a core box with this complicated shape whilst maintaining a constant wall thickness. My boring skills are not up to the job but my pal, Adrian, suggested that I make a solid wooden core and then pour resin around it to make a mould. The piece on the right is that core which is 1/4" smaller than the plug all round to give a material thickness. The piece on the left is the same profile as the main plug so I can use it to generate the hole in the side. All three were turned using plasticard templates to control the profiles and have worked out OK. Whilst with Tomo, the bits have received the most fabulous paint job in Bondaprime. It was a pity to cut them! First job was to make the piece for the cavity so I cut a slice off of one side of the block. I then marked it out by eye and cut it to a curve until it fitted the casting. Lots of use of the belt sander here. Hardest thing is trying to hold it as there are no flat surfaces to grip! I was pleased with the result. Then it was time to cut a matching groove in the core itself. it was just a case of nibbling away at it until it fitted. The Bridgeport is a wonderful machine! Then, drop it in and glue it down. The tube is my dust extractor again. Horrible stuff. Then, heart-in-mouth time again as I sawed it in half. The plan is to cast the two halves of the core and make two boxes. The cores can then be glued together before dropping into the main hole. Main plug cut in half. I made up the saw thickness with plywood and then drilled holes for the locating dowels. The hole in the side needs to be opposite the boss which carries the greaser so thereneeds to be a location between the plug and the core. The boss on the plug is easy. However, that on the core is more difficult due to the direction in which I cut it in half. This is where we are today. The parts are painted and complete. I am just making up the core boxes over which the wooden cores will be suspended when the resin is poured in. I haven't tried this process before and am looking forward to seeing the results. Will keep you posted! Steve 🙂

Hi Chaps. Many thanks for all of your thoughts. I am back on the case now! I could make a complete new one as that would be a known quantity. However, I do like to use a repaired original part wherever I can. If I replaced this one, I would have to store it for ever! Fear not, Barry, I have been working on a really quite tricky pattern for the Thornycroft and I will post on that very shortly. Building up the surface and re-cutting is an option. Although I love silver solder, I don't think a layer of that would be thick enough as I need to add the best part of 1/8" to the diameter. Brazing would probably be OK but to build it up locally really needs an acetylene torch which we don't have and you know what my welding skills are like. Current thinking is to turn the whole flange off from the back and silver solder a new bronze ring into position. Then I should just have to turn it back and screw-cut it. Dad is on the look-out for a suitable piece of bronze and I will keep you posted with progress. I think that the locking screw was an original feature as similar screws are used on the wheel seal bronzes. However, as you can see here, locking additions were made in the shape of a piece of steel, top and bottom, which engage with the bronze cover. This problem has been simmering for a long while and now that we know it is there, we have to fix it! The bearings are on order and I will keep you posted with progress. Steve🙂

A bit more progress today. Dad has had a go at the gearbox lid and it is looking much better. Selector fork guide casting. Foundry mark. I wonder who they were? You may remember that when we removed the input shaft, the first bearing cage was in the cover in bits so we had to take it out of the box. I decided to have a go at removing the nut which holds the bearings. It is 2 3/4" AF down a hole and I don't have a spanner for it. As the nut is thin, I didn't think it would be too tight so I tried a bit of a lash-up by putting two bits of packing inside the Dennis hub-nut spanner. Amazingly, it worked! Once slackened off, the nut just unscrewed and the centre shaft pushed out. I was expecting it to be a difficult job. After the first clean up. The cages in both bearings have failed so they must both be replaced. Much to my surprise, they are metric with 60mm bores, 130mm OD and 26mm thick. The 26mm thickness appears to be discontinued and I can only get 31mm. However, I think I can get away with the thicker bearings by shortening the intermediate spacer collar. Time to remove the gland from the end cover. The only way I had to apply torque to this was to use the 36" stillson wrench. I hate doing that as it marks the nut but needs must. It let go eventually and I cleaned them all up. This bronze cover screws into the bearing carrier to trap the bearings but unfortunately, the thread is shot. It started out as 5 1/4" x 16tpi but there is not much left. I must decide whether to repair or replace the part now. Dad is pressing on with cleaning stuff and having a lovely time. It really is a horrible job! More pics another day. Steve 🙂

Yes, a horrible job. I did find three gear teeth in the drain plug though. Just trying to see where they came from! A few more bits and pieces before we go our seperate ways. The carburettor is water heated and as I had already made up the pipe fittings, I bent up the pipes themselves. First was the return pipe and that was quite straightforward. It needed a clip to keep it clear of the bump stop so that was simply bent up from a piece of brass strip. Success! I didn't have enough tube for the feed pipe but Dad found a bit in a drawer, obviously second-hand! I annealed it and made it passably straight in my fingers. Then I bent it up but rather spoiled the effect by cutting it short. As I only had one piece of tube, I machined a long end fitting to win the extra length back. It worked OK and you don't notice it on the engine. It can remain as a reminder of the old adage, Measure twice.... Dad had painted up the sump level tap linkage so I set about fitting it. All successful. I still don't understand why Peerless fitted two seperate sumps, however, as they do add an amount of extra complication. In poking about today, I found the remains of a rear bump-stop mounting clip. I have left this out for Father to make up some replacements, should the feeling come upon him. Happy New Year everybody! Steve🙂

A return to the fray. I tend to stop when things get difficult and go away to think about them for a bit. Pressing on usually results in disaster or blood! The input shaft wasn't letting go so we decided to try the power take-off gear. The extended layshaft was an option in the parts book but I am surprised that it was specified for a military lorry. The lorry worked its life as a tipper in which case it was a useful feature so I wonder whether it was a post-war addition? We shall never know. Anyway, I drilled out the locking bolt and applied the hydraulic puller and, much to my surprise, it let go. That puller was a good investment! Then back to the input shaft. I pushed the gear hard up against the casing and hit it again with a large hammer and block of wood. It let go and began to move. Once I could get a couple of screwdrivers in there, we were away. Eventually, I could pull it free. That old oil is remarkably sticky though. The inter-shaft bearing is of a double-row self-aligning type and looks OK. I had previously freed off the big nuts on the bearing cover and, once I had knocked the bolts through, it came off. To get the lay shaft off, the bearing on the other end also needed to be removed but it was a right so-and-so and, rather annoyingly, I broke the flange. Very aggravating. In the end, we decided that the sticky oil wasn't helping and so warmed the whole lot up to thin it down. That worked a treat and off it came. Then we could lift the layshaft out. That is a heavy lump. Followed by the output shaft, an even heavier lump. Taking them out will make it a lot easier to clean anyway! We are going to try to leave the differential in place but time will tell. We are going out again in a moment to start digging sludge. Steve 🙂

There is something to be said for living in California! Glad you are enjoying the instalments. We do tend to work in bursts as the lorry lives 200 miles away from me which is a real pain, and we therefore tend to get several jobs ready to do for each visit. We do love the friends we have made through Jack's forum. Periodically, they make themselves known at some rally or other and it is always a joy to meet everyone. Anyway, here is todays installment: We have been back on the gearbox and have been scraping and chipping again. Whilst poking around the input shaft, this gland carrier could be seen to move. As it should be screwed in, we became concerned and decided that it needed to be removed for a closer look. The UJ coupling had to come off first so I started by punching out a cross-pin. Much to our surprise, it moved quite easily. Then put the hydraulic puller on it. I had to wind it up fairly well but it came loose with a thump and it soon came off. Once the keys were removed, the carrier just pulled out and it could be seen that the threads were shot. Of more concern, part of the bearing cage was loose within it. The balls were no longer spaced correctly so now we must remove the lot to identify the bearing and replace it. The two bearings are mounted within a cast iron sleeve which is stuck pretty firmly. It is also very thin so I can't afford to treat it with a heavy hand and we are puzzling how to shift it. we have left it soaking with Plus-Gas overnight. Whilst pondering, we lifted out the selector forks. These could do with s bit of love and attention too. We have now decided that the shafts must come out so I released the nuts on the bearing caps. They were well tightened and I had to use a bit of pipe on the 3/4" drive ratchet before they let go. We shall return to the fray tomorrow. Steve🙂

Hi Barry. No, I haven't checked the ratio but I would expect between 3 and 4:1. The Thornycroft was 3.5:1 No wonder we barely make 5mpg! Just going out in the shed but it is a filthy day and not very inspiring. Oh well. Steve🙂

Hi Chaps. Between visits and guests, we have made some progress. First job was to try to start the Autocar and get it out. Poor old thing hasn't run for a couple of years and the cold and damp didn't help much. However, it went in the end and we moved it out in order to access the box. It is a big, heavy, awkward thing but we got it blocked up in the end. We had to take the lid off and were very pleased to find a super looking set of gears. We will dig the crud out of the bottom and give them a bit of a paraffin wash but unless we find any horrors, we plan to leave them alone. It was killing us on the floor though so we eventually managed to get it onto the engine trolley, ready for an external clean. In the mean time, Tim fitted the overflow pipe steady bracket. Then the new water system drain plug. And the repaired oil cups. The oil feed banjos were mounted but await the pipework. The extended magneto strap was fitted. Then we sealed up the engine. I was concerned about my new crush washers but they dropped in perfectly. A good heave on the newly dressed up valve caps. I screwed in the Champion D16s and the engine was sealed. We even have compression on all four! New water fittings in the carb and the carb firmly mounted on its bracket, newly painted by Dad. Not bad progress so far. Gearbox cleaning planned for tomorrow. That promises to be a very tedious job but there we are. We only do it for the fun! Steve🙂

Look what Santa brought me! An original magneto switch as fitted to Peerless trucks! Tim found it on Ebay amazingly. We shall have an hour out in the shed later. Happy Christmas everyone! Steve 😁

Progress has been slow of late with work and other things getting in the way. However, I have made a few brass fittings ready for the Christmas blitz. There are two oil pots on top of the engine and, quite remarkably, we have both although one is missing its lid. Made in Cleveland Ohio, the home of Peerless. I cut out a blank of brass and then just tapped the edges over the end of a piece of bar. The hinge is a staple formed from wire. Sadly, I didn't have any brass wire small enough so this is steel. It should last OK in such an oily environment. Complete and ready to fit! I made up a replacement banjo fitting a little while back as you saw. Now I have done the banjos as well which was a fun turning job. Silver soldered assembly of course. And union nuts and nipples to suit. 7/16" UNS to match the oil pump. I bought these elbows but made up the union nuts again so we will be ready to go once I have made the sight feed unit. So, Christmas is coming, along with a few days all together. The plan is to dig out the gearbox and see how far we can get with it. We haven't seen it for a few years and have never looked inside. Fingers are crossed that it will need little more than a good clean but we shall see. Watch this space! Steve 🙂

Hi Chaps. A very little progress but still inching forwards. This working away from home is an absolute pain! Anyway, the valve cap crush-washers have turned up from Dobson Gaskets in Keithley, specially made in under fourteen days so they can be fitted over Christmas along with the caps. If the spark plugs turn up as well, we will be able to seal up the engine completely! I have sorted out the magneto strap by cutting it and fitting a longer extension piece. Now I have the magneto with me, I have realised that it needs a ball joint to operate the advance so I have turned one up. I had to clean out the hole with a reamer but it is a nice tight fit and the original drive rod will fight again. Something else to fit over Christmas! Steve 🙂

Actually no. I plan to carve it out of a lump if we have one big enough. I am using up stock! Steve

I don't think there are any pressed parts in it. It is just a gunmetal casting. I shall carve it out of the solid if Dad can find a lump of bronze or brass in the stores. There are some thin bent bits to the sides which trap a white-painted backplate which shows up the drips and also an engraved plate on the front to indicate where each drip feeds. A bit more sketching needed, I think! Steve 🙂

Thanks Chaps.There is a solution! Steve 🙂

Interesting to see but I don't think I shall try to replicate them. Too much like hard work! I have been amusing myself with fittings for the oil and water systems. The mechanical oil pump feeds the two crank cases seperately through two banjo fittings. These are the fittings I have. I suspect that the steel one was a repair job at some point in its life and, rather inconveniently, sports an M10 thread. Fortunately, I spotted it as I am very suspicious of all screw threads on this vehicle! Anyway, I thought that I would rather they looked the same and so turned one up to match but with the M10. Unfortunately, we don't have the banjos themselves so they will be another imminent task. For some light relief, I turned up some water connections with nuts and nipples to match. 1/8"NPT to 1/2"x 24 UNS. More new taps and dies! As well as the banjos on the oil system, we are missing the actual sight feed unit which looks like this. I have spent the day on the board turning photographs and a manual illustration into enough information to make one up I just need to find a source of 5/8" OD glass tube and learn how to cut it! 15mm test tubes may be the answer or possibly to drill and turn some acrylic rod into tube. More food for thought. Steve 🙂

Hi Andy. Thanks for the pic and the story. You are a brave man to take it on and I shall look forward to seeing it sooner or later. Pleased to hear that you enjoy the ongoing story. I am always concerned that we are going into mind-numbing levels of detail but people do seem to keep coming back! It is wonderful for me to be able to ask questions of such a knowledgeable bunch of friends. You certainly can't do this sort of thing on your own! Steve 🙂

Hi Chaps! Many thanks for that. I knew I just had to ask! Interestingly, my spare plug which lives in the toolbox is a D16 so I think we are on the right lines. I will start with them. My goodness, Andy. That Lion is an animal! You are a brave man indeed for taking such a thing on. What is its story? Whilst looking at this area of the engine, I have picked up the valve plugs. Unfortunately, they are a sorry looking bunch and have all been seriously mistreated with a hammer and punch, probably due to the lack of an appropriate spanner. Well, I am fortunate to have in stock a Dennis cap spanner. The teeth are rounded off and bigger than the original slots in the Peerlees plugs but it does give us a chance of being able to tighten them properly. First task was to tidy the teeth up. Fortunately, it is not too hard. Onto the caps. I started off by putting them all in the lathe to tidy up the front faces and outside diameter. One of them was very far gone and, I decided, needed more than just a bit of tickling. I faced this one right off with the intention of silver soldering a replacement ring. I needed a 3" diameter disc for that job and quite amazingly, found a bar end of 3 1/2" brass under the bench which I duly parted off. It is very surprising how little I buy these days. I seem to have been doing this for so long that there is always something useful hidden in a corner somewhere, assuming I can find it! It floated off-centre on the solder but I had left enough meat on it to dress off so all was well. Then into the mill to have the slots cut. All quite straightforward. I tidied the slots in the other caps as well. I suspect that they were originally 1/4" wide but five caps are now 3/8" which suits the spanner. The other three are a whisker wider in order to adequately clean the faces. All done! I have ordered some new crush washers for them from Dobson Gaskets in Keighly following Tomo's recommendation. They have promised fourteen days delivery so we shall see how they do. Thanks Tomo. I will order the plugs next! Thanks for your help! Steve 🙂

Hi Pete. No, I wouldn't be able to disengage it so far out. I need to dress the leather back to get it to sit further in by about an inch. Current thinking is to set it up in the gap of the Colchester and then either using a bar in the toolpost as a datum, dress it off with a rasp or possibly even set up a sander in the toolpost and rotate it against it. Next time I pay a visit, I plan to spend some time eyeing up the job. Mounting a sander in the toolpost might be a challenge! Spark Plugs! Looking ahead, we are going to need some spark plugs very soon so that we can seal it up. The question is, how do I select the spark plug type? All of the Google references I have found so far say that it is imperative to start with the manufacturer's recommendation but, unfortunately, I don't have one! I have spoken to The Green Spark Plug Co and they tell me that the book calls for Lodge ST 22mm plugs but our valve caps have 18mm threads so those would not fit. Green supplied us with 'Champion 7' for the Dennis and these have been fine in what must be a very similar engine. Unfortunately again, they are out of stock. In my readings, I have found that some plugs have resistors built in but that we must not use that type with a Magneto. Also, some have a copper core which is not for conductivity but to keep them cool. We don't want that type either as our engines all run very cool and need the hottest plug we can get to stop them fouling. It is an interesting question and, to be honest, I don't suppose it is very critical for us. I would value some opinions if anyone is prepared to share them please! Steve 🙂

Thank you Peter, what a brilliant idea! I love the quote at the bottom! As you can see, it is a mighty spring and an uncontrolled release could be very exciting indeed! Steve 👍