Pete Ashby

If your metal conduit is like this as used on the AEC Militant

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52379[/ATTACH]

 

It is still available. I got mine from these people. www.vintagecarparts for smaller diameters or www.cablecraft for larger ones. Not cheap but good quality and sold by the metre so no wastage

Rob

that's exactly what I'm looking for thanks for the heads up

Pete

Try Vehicle Wiring Products (www.vehicleproducts.co.uk or 0115 9305454).

 

the reference is FFRS 12,20 or 30 (diameter before shrinking)

Thanks Paul, I think there is something there I can use, I'm trying to replicate metal spiral wound conduit that formed part of the Retriever's cab wiring.

regards

Pete

Oh and braided cover.

 

You can get an excellent heat shrink braided cover these days - if you need the contact let me know and Ill look it up

Paul

I'd be interested in the contact for the heat shrink braided covering

Thanks

Pete

My 1940 Leyland Retriever had all black cotton covered wires running in either expanded metal looms or cotton wrapped depending on location.

Pete

Interesting, thanks for posting, my father and his brother went to a sale near Oxford in 1947 to buy a Jeep but they all made lots of money, uncle bought a DUKW it had a fuel problem they had to tow it home behind his Dodge command car

Nick

that was possibly at Mount Farm ex 9th USAAF photo recon airfield near to Benson about 8miles south of Oxford?

Large amounts of war surplus kit was sold off there my Farther and uncle also went to buy a van about the same time but found the prices too high for them. I think you'll find that a fair bit of the early kit that was in Raymond Mains yard came from the Mount Farm sales. I know Anthony Main has a number of the original catalogues.

Pete

Hello Gordon

 

Yours right the closed cabs do look so much better, just a bit of a sweat box in the summer.

 

Howard

Where Gordon comes from he only has that problem on a couple of days of the year.

I've followed this thread with interest,really nice to see something different and someone who's prepared to put the effort in to produce a class restoration.

Pete

Think your right Richard,

at the time that was made I sure Pete's M10 was the only operational one in the UK, ex Pound's if I remember right.

Pete

I think from memory its an 11 or maybe 12 cab 1940/41 F60 CMP, if the the wooden body is original it's unusual.

Early CMP's were supplied with steel bodies, a few early models had wooden bodies fitted by the British. At this stage of the war trucks were arriving from Canada as knock down packs, bodies, cabs and frames in separate packs and there were several plants set up around the UK to reassemble the trucks mos notable being at Southampton and at Slough. There are contemporary photos that show some 60cwt CMP's with wooden bodies being operated by the British so it makes me think that this may be the result of shipping losses, this was certainly an issue in 1941.

Pete

Took off head and shown as blown at No4 but worse still was No1 had a large score/gouge out of cyl wall -looks about width of gudgeon pin and piston showing signs of breaking up. So it's engine out now, strip and hopefully it can be rebored as I don't want to lose an original GPW engine and head. Help or advice appreciated guys, can these engines be saved or is it beyond repair?

 

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As Richard says you will have to strip the block out to see the extent of the damage, then it's down to what size your bores are already. They could be anything from standard to +60 thou oversize, at this point you will have to consider having sleeves fitted not cheap but it would take your engine back to standard and give you probably another 100 years of use !!with new pistons rings bearings valve guides etc. If you decide to spend that sort of money get the block crack tested before you start, if anything is found there are several fusion welding companies who can sort the problem out for you.

Pete

Welcome to the forum, you may find this site useful, http://g503.com there's a huge amount of information on there and it may take some time to find your way around it but well worth putting into your favourites list

Pete

Here in the UK you would be beating punters off with a stick at that price, not sure on your 'market' prices in NZ but either way it looks good value and a good project be prepared to spend a little cash to restore it.

Pete

Oh and these guys are excellent too:

 

http://rust.co.uk/?gclid=CKX-1cifkKsCFYUntAodDle9tQ

 

I particularly recommend the epoxy mastic paint.

I'd second that, not cheap but with good prep and the right application this stuff does what it says on the can, mind you you don't get long to get it on before it starts to go off and just like any two pack........don't leave it in the gun !!

Pete

The holes in the rear crossmember of the frame (behind the bumperettes) indicate it is a Ford frame, but I would need to see the front crossmember (under the grille) or the shockabsorber mounting brackets to confirm.

 

David

Looking at the photos again David is right, the rear view would indicate a Ford frame but we would need to see the front cross member (under the rad) to be sure. The windscreen frame certainly does appear to be early as I can't see any indication of brackets for a rifle mount. I would hazard a guess it's a fairly typical war time/post war British Army rebuild nothing wrong with that at all. Do you have the frame number and the engine number?

Pete

From the limited amount I can see in your photos it looks like it could be a genuine AMC2 body post Jan 1944, round locker lock pressings and stiffening gussets from the rear panel to the locker sides indicate this or it could be a Willy's tub either way it looks genuine, the locker lids are Ford pressed while for AMC2 bodies they were flat small point and not worth bothering about. The carb is wrong it's not a wartime Carter, looks like a post war addition the oil dip stick is of the early type pre Feb 1943, radiator looks to be Ford and you seem to have a original horn. The CVC box is missing not a problem and the 6v generator has been replaced by alternator so I guess it’s been converted to 12v again no big deal to put right just a bit of cash. The dash looks to be not cut about and the instruments look like wartime or good repro and the dash plates look to be originals. The windscreen looks like it has early Bronze hold down catches pre Sep 1942The holder under the bonnet is for the lubrication chart. By the way what is the frame like? there are no pictures of it to be able to make an assessment.

As to the rust nothing is a problem as long as you have either the money and or the ability to put it right everything for jeeps are now available delivered to your door, see the various dealers’ web sites for information and prices. Basically it boils down to how much the vehicle is being offered for, there is obviously some body filler but I would expect that in a genuine tub 66 years old.

From what I can see (and you really need to see and hear the vehicle running) not bad at the right price but be prepared to spend a year or so bring it up to scratch. But I would suggest you take someone who has a little knowledge along if you are not sure.

Pete

Case of speak as you find,

for me Milwed has proved to be both fast and efficient on the occasions I have used it. It's a fact of life now that there are very

few 'free lunches' left in the world.

All things considered I think the price charged by Milweb is not unreasonable when one considers the scope of market available to

advertisers and the quality of presentation, by comparison try placing an add on one of the on line car marts and see how little you

get for your money.

Pete

Thanks Paul for the reply,

it's always worth while to hear of alternative companies that come with a positive recommendation

Pete

Thanks for the replies guys,

I am going to go with Slindens on the basis of their track record and Marks recommendation

Thanks

Pete

Any one had any experience of using a firm of fusion welders called Slinden based in the north Midlands?, or can recommend a good

company. I have a block that needs some minor repair, the company I used to use has gone out of business.

Thanks

Pete

I have one piston where the gudgeon pin is free to move in the piston all the others are very tight in the pistons? The little ends are all ok no sign of play or movement.

 

Going to hone all cylinders, replace all rings on pistons, and all big end shells and maybe a piston to get the gudgeon pin tight.

Which cylinder did the sloppy pin come from?

Pete

Very impressed Ray, how many times can you reuse the same mask ?

Pete

Right, I started are jimmy today after it has been standing for a few months and have found that it isn't charging as it should,if I give the voltage regulator/box thingy on the bulkhead in front of the driver a tap it will charge for a while. But if I leave the truck ticking over and then get in it to drive away it will have stopped charging again, I assume some points of some kind are stuck, any tips?

As a start try checking the security of the connections on both the generator and the CVC box. If they look a bit corroded take each one off.... one at a time... and clean them up and try again. It may be that the contacts are sticking as others have suggested and a clean up of the points will help, but be careful not to bend the point arms as this will alter your charging settings.

Pete

With an excellent detailed reply like that you can tell that Pete started out in the business making 1/35th Tamiya scale models - The only difference back then was that his sponge was smaller...................!

 

I shall try your technique later this week when I have the task of stenciling both Jimmy's now that they have emerged from the paint shop.

When I started making models young Mr Stevens there was no Tamiya only Airfix 1/76th in plastic bags from Newbury Woolies....ah I remember it well the Quad and limber set........... but your right it's basically the same technique but larger.

Good luck Clive with marking up your trucks it's a job I always find very satisfying if a bit nerve racking when it's on someone else's

vehicle drop me a PM if you need anything.

I take your point antarmike regarding over spray or bleed and agree that in service nearly anything goes, one of the hardest

commissions I ever had was Dodge carry-all that came in for a full respray and the customer asked for it to be marked up with

over spray it nearly broke my heart, but in the end it was his truck and he was paying the bill so over spray he got.....well it was only a little if I'm honest.

Pete

Work outside of stencil in towards middle.

Tony's right, that's the way to do it out side in using a fine grade sponge the type used for washing up is best. if you are using

brass or card stencils make sure they are taped securely in place with masking tape and remember to turn down a tab of tape at

each corner so

you can pull it off easily when you want to remove the stencil, the whole idea is that you don't want to move or disturb the mask

once the paint has been applied. Iv'e tried both spray and sponge and find the sponge works best for me, I use matt Humberol

modelling enamel. To apply the paint stir the tin well, then pour a little paint onto something that you can use as a palate on old

paint tin lid works well.

Cut your sponge to a useful size for the job in hand (remove the scouring backing if using a washing up sponge, it gets in the way) now dip the sponge lightly into the paint and dab it around the pallet a little to spread it out. give it a few minutes to start to

tack then as Tony says start at the outside and work in. The trick is a small amount of paint and a very light dabbing action try

to get an even coat in one go if you can but do not over load the sponge with paint, what I do is dab into the paint then a few

dabs on a piece of scrap to take the first paint off the surface of the sponge then onto the stencil.

Remove the stencil after the paint has tacked off but before it's fully dry. Hold the outer edge firmly pick up the turned down flap

of tape and pull up and away from the stencil in a steady movement ensuring that the mask does not move.

All sounds complicated but it's only practice, perfect your technique on some scrap and get used to what ever method you choose before tackling your truck.

Good luck

Pete

The average of these figures is not too bad for this type of engine, but your post has made me go back and look at the figures, which I did not do before. I noticed on both attempts, that figures for No.3 and 4 are both equal, and lower than other cylinders. This could signify a blown head gasket between those cylinders.

Good point Richard I'd not paid too much attention to the numbers either, but I would have thought that this would produce a very

noticeable off beat at the exhaust?

I think my moneys still on big ends, if I'm wrong I'll stand you a pint at W&P David and I are coming up for the day on the Friday

Pete

If the knock is like a sharp hammer blow then it could be a little end, if it's more like a heavy thump then it's more likely to be a big end. The fact that you have isolated to one cylinder is useful but ultimately you'll have to drop the sump and pull the head to see what the problem is. Have you noticed a sudden drop in oil pressure on idle? this may indicate a big end failure or a main bearings

however mains tend to rumble. I think your compression results make a broken ring unlikely they tend to click and scrape.

I wouldn't recommend driving the truck with the symptoms you have described.

Pete