Pete Ashby

For anyone who has not picked this up already on Milweb to see details go  https://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=21

Malvern postponed until June 28th 

Keep safe everybody 

Pete

Pleased you've got it sorted Jim and it was something simple, thanks for coming back and letting us know it's always useful to know the outcome.

Pete

Your welcome Jim, I'm basically lazy so I do all the simple stuff first.

Your problem particularity as you say it ran fine before you changed to gaskets suggests a fairly large air leak on the induction side of your engine that's why your not seeing much in the way of vacuum.   Vacuum = absence of air or something lower that atmospheric pressure  if you like,  so to be pedantic your problem is not lack of vacuum it's too much air leading to low or no vacuum it's perhaps easier to think of it this way round so check the hoses and connections first. 

Then with the engine running spray a little WD40 around the base of the carb/inlet manifold joint if the engine speeds up the leak is there and then do the same on each inlet flange/to block joint.

The vac gauge, compression gauge and a cheap multi meter to measure dwell and engine RPM are your best and most used tools on these old engines using them you can diagnose mechanical problems, set timing, set dwell and fault find your ignition and lighting circuits. 

Good luck and come back and tell us what the problem was it's always useful for all of us to hear the result.

Pete

It would be worth checking the rubber hose connections to your wipers and/ or advance retard diaphragm first for leaks or splits also the joint between carb and inlet manifold. 

 If they check out it would be worth investing in a a vacuum gauge ( the  non damped version from the usual sources on e bay or your local car factors) don't spend huge sums of money £10 to £20 max should get you what  you need,  you are looking for trends not definitive numbers.  Temporarily  connect the gauge to your vacuum wiper port  or any other suitable location below the throttle plate on the carb or inlet manifold.

Run some diagnostic checks (google how to read a vacuum gauge if you have not used one before).  This can all be done in the workshop no need to take the truck out on the road.

Depending on what you find with the vacuum gauge the next test would be with a compression gauge on each cylinder again google how to do this if you have not done it before results need to be done first dry then with a small amount of oil down the plug hole.

In both cases check the results with the diagnostic charts,  it could be one of a number of  issues or a combination of them the combined results from vacuum and compression will point you in the right direction.

A little time spent now while the engine is complete and running will save you endless hours of grief and quite possible 100's of £'s wasted on doing unnecessary work or going round in circles.

Pete

1 hour ago, steviem said:

Notice the red box next to the passenger seat has a pipe from to underneath the body it has lead washers, something to do with a radio?

This is the connection to the radio outlet box (just a plain metal junction box) located on the inside of the body below the passenger all ACM 1 and 2 bodies were fitted with it as standard from MB 217543 March 1943 onward  GPW's would have followed on at about the same time. 

Pete

That is impressive full marks for that.

Pete

3 hours ago, steviem said:

Can you recommend  a good manual to purchase please.

The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual ISBN 9781855201217 Pub by Brooklands Books,  this will give you everything you need it's a reprint of all the original war time TM's for the jeep.

Just be warned when rebuilding the engine the instructions for fitting the con rods to the crank are wrong this was not corrected until after the war.  To read about the correct assembly and the reasons why the war time TM is wrong do a search on the G503 forum( I sent the link earlier to you).

Pete

53 minutes ago, steviem said:

Amazing work, i have a lot to learn.

It's all fairly straight forward stuff,  read your manuals take note of the tolerance specs for bushes and bearings and don't be tempted to cut corners on the mechanical work it will only come back to bite at a later date.

If you haven't found this site already it would be worth having a look and putting it in your favorites folder there is a huge repository of knowledge from around the world of Jeeps here https://forums.g503.com/ some of the posts need a bit of filtering but it's well worth looking through the technical section particularity the engine and transmission rebuilding blogs that have been pinned at the top of the forum.

Look forward to following your restoration blog 

Pete 

1 hour ago, steviem said:

Thanks Pete, i will do that.

If your' interested here's a link to a blog on a GPW I did a few years back click on the title and it will take you to it

Pete

14 minutes ago, steviem said:

Thanks bud, now got a delivery date of this Saturday so i will have more space and time foe detailed pictures, all of which as you say will be logged, anyone clocked the extra trim on the windshield for a hard top i believe . and the wife may just enjoy the heater, 

Looks like a good basis to start from, others have given you some sound advise there's plenty of good reliable help available on HMVF or a number of other very good jeep related sites if you haven't found them yet shout and I'll post some links for you.

Suggest you start a restoration blog in the restoration section of this forum it will keep your project in one place and makes it easier for people to follow it and comment on. 

Pete

Yep,  brake spring pliers Richard as 11th Armoured confirms. 

I bought these probably more than 35 years ago they are US military issue.   Makes a difficult job both easy and safe for removing and/or replacing the brake return spring.   This set has a flue machined into the bottom of one handle so that you can leaver the hook of the spring out of the hole in the hanger during removal.

Pete 

Well we’re still here in the Wild West despite gales and biblical amounts of rain, keeping dry was high on the agenda so it was shut the workshop door tight and get on with the D15.

The last entry in the blog showed axles and back plates fitted since then I have honed the rear wheel cylinders and fitted new seals and pistons. The rear brake hangers and linings were in near new condition so they were reused and fitted after the anchor pins and adjusters were cleaned with the threads chased and greased with copper grease so that everything worked as it should.

It was a different story with the front shoes these were worn and contaminated and the cylinders seized in the bores new linings and hangers and cylinders were obtained and fitted and again the anchors and adjusters were cleaned and greased before fitting.

Next job was to clean and check the brake drums which were all good with no scoring or pitting and then clean and check inner and outer wheel bearings and races for each hub, everything checked out just fine so it was repack with new grease and fit onto the axles then fit the wheels and new tyres onto the hubs.

To finish this phase of the restoration the steering box was cleaned, taken apart, checked for condition and once again found to have virtually no ware so it was painted and bolted onto the frame.

Effort will now be switched back to the Retriever until the beginning of summer when work will focus on the cab.  

Pete

2 hours ago, wally dugan said:

Have l misunderstood this l thought the ban applied  only to vehicle made after that date when ever. So are they going to stop the use of all vehicles using  petrol and diesel after that date as there will be still thousands in use to me it looks like yet another ill thought out idea no clear policy  just my thoughts

No I think your correct Wally but it means the requirement for petrol/ diesel will decline steadily towards that point then  fall away rapidly as older cars are scraped,  the result will be a situation where it quickly becomes commercially uneconomic to produce carbon fuels. 

Pete

Ah right I see what you are trying do sorry for all the previous blather then. 

I find matching RAL numbers a difficult and not very fulfilling exercise to be honest it should be easy these days but experience tells me it's not.

Pete 

The quick answer is by adding black this will always darken any base colour but you need only a tiny amount.  The difficult bit comes when you want to alter the shade then it gets more complicated so if that's what you need to do I suggest you do a web search about how to go about that.  I had a look at RAL 1019 on the screen but I can't decide if it's a light shade of grey/ beige or very light flat brown/green.

The best thing to do is invest in some cheap plastic water colour pallet trays from your local art shop and buy some 5 ml and 1 ml polythene pipets of e-bay for a couple of £'s for 20 or so of each and experiment taking a careful note of the volumes of base colour to darken agent you use until you get what you are looking for then you can scale it up to the full size can.

  Word to wise at this point the top coat will be effected by the colour of the undercoat you are using so paint up a series of test strips with the same undercoat as the main job.  Also when you do your final large scale mix do a larger volume than you think you'll need as it may prove difficult to rematch later on.

Pete

Well done you 

 I'm guessing it's a motor bike ?? don't forget to start a new restoration thread when your ready

Pete

I'm very sorry to hear that you've decided you can't continue with your project.   You certainly seemed to have the right driving force and an eye for detail,  it is a sad fact however that cost and space are often a problem and defeat the best intentions.

I hope you'll not give up on MV's completely and perhaps try something a bit less challenging to your circumstances for your next project I keep a look out for it here.

Regards

Pete

11 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

Thats a shame, he had some lovely NOS bits. I'd like to get my hands on that steering wheel

 

It is a shame but not uncommon I'm afraid, have a look on e-bay under the military vehicle parts sub section there are NoS parts from this project appearing on there recently, if your interested in particular items give the chap a shout you might be lucky

Pete

Your last point Ian about lobbyists is something that has crossed my mind too.

I have been surprised that in recent years at some of the bigger shows around the country we have not seen some placard waving going on at the gate with regard to how we are destroying the planet in the name of entertainment or some other equally misguiding notion when the real problem lies with expanding fossil fuel power generation in other countries and multi national companies who see no return in investing in alternative transport technologies. 

This is probably starting to stray into the political arena which has no part on a forum like this so I'll call it a day on this particular line of thought.

Pete

Hydrogen is without doubt the answer there is a limitless supply all around us and it is a truly renewable energy source,  burn it in air and it produces water plus perhaps a few compounds of Nitrogen and some pollutants from the lubrication system of course.

The key is getting the whole highly explosive mass safely contained in a fuel cell that will not breach in an accident it should not be that hard to do I would suggest and would have the added bonus of not having to relay on other countries fora  primary energy source in the form of Li.  

Pete

Odd this thread should have started to pick up as only last weekend we had lunch with someone who owns a Tesla and is highly committed and invested in green energy here in west Wales a place where diesel pick ups and tractors are more your everyday mode of transport.

  It was an interesting conversation and confirmed many of my suspicions about the logistical issues of owning an electric car although the owner suggested that it was not an issue providing some 'pre-planning of route and charging locations' was carried out before hand,  I have to say I was not overly convinced by the argument. 

  This lead me to carry out a few back of the envelope calculations that evening in terms of the power draw on the grid assuming 50% of the 35 million odd cars currently on the road plugged in to charge at 1800hrs every night it takes no account of HGV's or buses that would take significantly more power, it was a scary big number of KWhrs . 

Following on from this when we did our weekly shop at the 'big town' (well big for us here) I made a point of sitting and counting the number of vehicles in a ten minute period that went through the fuel pumps at the supermarket and an estimation of how long each one stayed on the pump, ...yes  I know   but I learnt on Sunday it's takes around 30min for a 50% charge so making the assumption that each vehicle I counted would also be there charging batteries I couldn't see how the logistics stacked up just in physical space to take that many cars over a 30 minute period. 

So the upshot of this is I think there are a  lot of sound bites about at the moment coming from both the ardent Green energy quarter who on occasion let their passion blind them to the practical issues involved and politicians who see it as a current bandstand and won't be in power to see their proposals implemented. 

In conclusion to echo some of the comments on my old school reports "good idea not enough thought in the application"

Pete

Very nice 

Pete

Just come onto Milweb no connection with the seller https://www.milweb.net/classifieds/view_large.php?ad=97940&cat=13

Pete

Bad news about your bug Paul,  it's been a plague ridden Christmas here in the wild west too.

Hope you'll soon be feeling better and back on the tools every little job is one nearer to completion keep the up dates coming. 

Pete