Rover8FFR

I had a correct FV box spanner but I sold it recently, all part of the clear out.

I missed a trick there then ��

I have refurbished the first brakes tappet unit, and now working onto other side to repeat strip down of hub etc.

Does anyone have the parts shown for a Humber compressor as it was seized or the PO engaged it and it went pop

How lucky will I be to acquire a new compressor shaft and conrod tc../

Humber is bigger

What do you use Clive or have you got correct spanner

Question for Clive and Richard perhaps.

Is the Humber hub nut the same size as a Landrover one. Ie. 52mm

Or does a large box spanner off another vehicle work??????

Hi All

I am thinking of changing my Pig to electronic ignition and was wondering if anyone else has done this and how complicated it is to do.I have had a quote from Classic heads for £197.50+vat,would be very grateful of your comments on this.

 

Nigel.

I believe Clive has and no doubts will reply with accurate advice.

Thanks Mat, Sorry for lack of updates what with work and having had a very interesting week touring the Flanders Battlefields inc some more off the beaten path BEF May 1940 sites there has not been a lot of progress lately.

 

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Have had the floor planking milled out of Sapele and utilised the Railway workshop to give them an undercoat.

 

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And am now fitting them to the rear frame.

 

Thought I heard something and ............... ran outside

 

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Here she comes at almost eye level

 

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Had a fly past by the BBMF Dakota bloody brilliant piece of flying at low level up the wye valley

 

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Forgot that I have fitted the correct opaque lens to the front side lights inc WWII dated bulbs found in a barn just outside Dunkirk while on my hols I kid you not !!

What a find, those bulbs....

The length of the tool is 6.5 inches. It may well have been I who gave Clive the dimensions way back about 20 years ago, I know I gave the drawing to a Pig owner. Outside of the sleeve should be polished so as not to damage the seal in the hub.

 

Wayne, you will not be able to use normal tube stock as the differential between OD and ID is too great, hence turning it out of round bar.

Thanks Richard

ID - 6.6cm

OD -9.1cm

Thanks for sharing Clive. I can't be the only Pig owner needing that detail.

I wonder if you have those dims as the nearest metric equivalent. I remember the Duck tape too.

I was going to see from a structural engineer what the nearest tube sizes are.

However if you look in the EMER it suggests the tool is machined from a solid bar to make those sizes ?????

PS ANY IDEA ON LENGTH NEEDED..... Is 12" enough to do it???? Ta

Cheers

Did anyone get further on with this matter.

I am sorting my brakes out and will need to either create a hybrid like a friend did or get one made?

In that case anyone got the sizes. Sorry Clive I have misplaced those you gave me before. Grrrrrr

Cheers

Fantastic. Thought it was.

I removed a hub tonight and noticed the large hub nuts had been tightened with a drift before and not the proper box spanner.

The tappet block should clean up okay with some TLC.

I may need your help for the improvised hub oil seal tube for refitting.

Hub was in good condition internally, thankfully with grease and oil very evident

I'll get some photos uploaded

pastparts are good for seals 01284 750729 or they have a website

Thanks Roger. I wonder if they are familiar with the Humbers brakes???

Do you know....??

Thanks in advance

Try John Walker

 

Looks like some useful bits you've got there Wayne

Very useful parts Clive.

Is John the Master Cylinder seals chap?

Champ spares list them for ferrett and pig, but ill try all options

Cheers

Brakes spares now sorted.

Can the seals and piston cups be bought at champ spares? Anyone know please.

Started to look at the braking system now, as even the handbrakes, which are cable and rod actuated didn't work.

Not hard to see why?

Master cylinders refurbished and re-sealed along with header reservoir.

I hope the other brakes on the other three corners aren't as bad? Famous last words

Well after obtaining some useful parts for the Piggy just after Christmas (Thanks to a dear friend) I have rebuilt the carb and sure enough an accelerator pump diaphragm was leaking........

Carb overhauled and no more flooding/ fouling plugs in three cylinders.

Need to upload some images etc.

Most recent problem was a gritty sounding gearbox? I dropped the gearbox drain plug, only to find lots of muddy slurry in there and a blocked sump of the drain plug.

I had to remove the compressor for a better inspection and to overhaul it too.

This is what I found in the compressor casing and the bowels of the gearbox.

I am making a temporary cover plate for where the compressor fixes and wanted to know what best to flush the gearbox with that wont affect the bronze bearings and the oil seals etc.

My first thought was kerosene or diesel mixed with some mineral engine oil?

What would you guys suggest? Luckily the internals aren't showing any real corrosion.

On a positive note the new downpipe and silencer are fitted after coating with high temperature black paint. More of a protection measure than correct detail as I had some to hand from refurbishing the BBQ.

Ta

Nice pictures Nigel

I am in the process of cleaning and checking my carb also as I had an accelerator pump diaphragm fault, which caused over fuelling on 3 cylinders (4-6).

I have refurbished the manifold whilst it was off too, with a long soak in de-rust solution, good wire cupping and then a coat of high temperature finish. I'll have to update my own thread with some pics also.

I have cleaned and re-sealed / repaired my master cylinder too, so she should be running less rich and able to stop with brakes soon.

Best wishes

Wayne

No I have't got those ledges at all mate, didn't even know I was missing any either till you said to be honest, something else for me to make lol :-)

I'll get a better picture as I am sure they are a 'T' section folded in aluminium. I'll take some measurements too Matt

Cheers

Matt

This is the ledge angle brackets that I meant.

I have had these in both my Toasties.

As I suggested they get whacked... hence mine turning down a little.

You can also see where the stowage clips are for the battery cables too etc.

Cheers buddy

I'll take a picture for you of the two small ledge angles I mentioned Matt.

Great images of the back of your Toastie .......

I'll keep being nosey then ......

Best

Wayne

Matt that looks the part!

The original P clips were the metal only ones, but makes sense to use the rubber edged ones to stop chaffing and corrosion. Depends how precise you want to be buddy?

I have an observation / question in the rear tub area......

Do you have the two short lengths of aluminium angle fitted to the rear of the seat bulkhead that acted as an edge support for the radio table? I can't quite see them in the photo!

They are quite fragile and often get damaged / removed after service when the rear area is loaded up as a utility vehicle.

Also do you have the connections on the left side wheel arch / seat box that the radio battery charging cables were connected to on yours. I notice you have the isolators in the images for the live ends so they don't touch the body when the engine is running etc?

Just me being nosey and curious

You have done a great job on the battery carrier

Mate those pics are such a great help thank you :-) wasn't sure with the drivers side storage point was as I couldn't find any holes that matched the bracket, thinking it'd be roughly the same area as the other side but clearly not, time to get routing and fixing :-)

Great stuff.

Glad the images helped.

Yes! they are different on either side of the vehicle as the drivers side runs up the side of the pedal box to top of bulkhead then around to inner wing.

Passenger side runs under the pedal box and then through the gap into the engine bay by the splash guards.

You can just make out the P Clip on the footwell where its fixed.

They weren't precisely drawn, so as long as you follow the routing of mine you will be spot on!

Matt

Ive peeked inside my toastie to see where the co-axial cabling goes.

Having the seatbox out was perfect timing for you.....

I hope these all are useful.

The last image shows the cable secured to one of the captive nuts instead of lower down on the inner wing for storage.

Once fixed to the ATU's the last two P clips are used on the wing top. You might be able to see the screws still in-situ on mine or yours. :cool2:

Best Wishes.

Hope these help mate

Wayne

Good work Matt

I'll take your photos today mate and upload later :-)

Pete

They run along the tops of the chassis rails in an armoured flexible conduit secured with P clips.

My seatbox is out for the gearbox so I will take a couple of pics for you and upload as soon as I can.

Cheers

Wayne

Sent you a PM mate about carrier frame

Well done Wayne I think you came over very well on screen and the youngster made me and the wife laugh out loud with his faith in the driver , I don't think much of the show though and must admit to FF to the bits you were in.

Will have to call by to inspect your vehicles now they are safely home.

 

RR.

Thanks buddy.

Yes please do call by it would be great to greet ya! Kettle is always on and hot. Just in case.

See ya soon