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mike65

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Posts posted by mike65

  1. Yes I spotted that, so that is 2 trips to Goodwood in 3 days for me.

     

    Currently there are 36 Spitfires, 8 Hurricanes and 1 Blenheim on the list.

     

    Entry to Goodwood on the day is by ticket only

    https://grrc.goodwood.com/battle-of-britain/battle-of-britain-day-flypast#Jb666F1pIu5o7TL3.97

     

    Suppose they need to control numbers (it is free though)

    After take off they are splitting up into groups and covering a large swathe of Southern England before landing at various places.

     

    Mike

  2. I shall be there always enjoy days out at Old Warden, hopefully no mishaps this year.

    For those who have never been it is well worth it.

    Not the massive hussle and bussle as you get at Duxford and the likes and nice friendly atmosphere.

    Oh yes and if you like the odd picture but not of dots, the display line is one of the closest I can think of. No need for that ultra long lense.

     

    In fact last year I believe I entertained a few people with the words "damn its too close" as the Spitfire made its last pass.

     

    Must remember - will not need long lense for Vulcan.

     

    Mike

  3. Probably the only original part is the airframe ID plate!

     

    Well having read the book you are not that far wrong.

    The airframe is completely new.

    The tyres are of course brand spanking new, remanufactured to original bald type at great expense.

    De Havilland 2 pitch propellor was reverse engineered from crash salvage, as no plans available.

    There are a few iriginal parts that are not critical and could be salvaged.

     

    The engine block is the one that was in it when it crashed, been rebuilt of course.

    The guns in it are not original as the French army had them away shortly after it was dragged up the beach. They actually fired one.

     

    Mike

  4. Let me know how you get on, I have a grumbling thrust bearing .

    There is one good thing about a military Land Rover. The gearbox has a removable cross member for those occassions when you need to remove a gearbox. Beats the civvy job of remove the interior seats and all.

    I believe you can just do the clutch by moving the gearbox backwards. Still not an easy job

     

    Mike

  5. Well I have managed to survice the winter and the truck has passed another MOT.

    Due to rule changes I am driving around displaying an out of date tax disc

    Maybe I should remove it and ree up a huge section of windscreen.

     

    Between the rain I have managed to clean up a replacement wheel and some YUAAM boxes.

     

    P1020531_zpso5zdnlcy.jpg

    P1020530_zpsgnz2ecjp.jpg

     

    Weather now seems to have picked up so I have stripped the dexion of the 351 bits and bracket and added another mount to the radio table.

    P1020532_zpsgltlddey.jpg

     

    Thought I better see if things fit. Seems OK

     

    P1020533_zpserc9uuic.jpg

     

    Not sure do you think I have enough in there?

     

    Mike

  6. When I did mine I took the drivers floor plate out, makes like a bit easier for removing the cover plate that bolts to the front of the transfer box.

     

    But you still need to be a bit of a contortionist.

     

    I did not bother draining my transfer box as mine was a bit of a big failure and most of it was on the driveway in any event.

    The joys of a sloping drive.

     

    Mike

  7. Incidentally - do you have any idea what the normal compression reading should be for a 3 bearing 2,25 lump?? The 70 psi I got on the front two cylinders seems a bit low to me - I was expecting at least around 100 psi....

     

    Well according to one of my manuals, does not say 3mb or 5mbso assume they are the same.

     

    7:1 comp head = 145

    8:1 comp head= 160

     

    both should be at 300 rpm

    But looks like you are well out on all

     

    Mike

  8. Whilst trawling a few websites I cam across this.

    Has to be the perfect TV stand for any MV enthusiast.

    Except maybe us Land Rover ones:D

     

    Alternatively he may have forgot to sort the brakes,

     

    Mike

    tvjeep.jpg

  9. Neil

     

    Fingers crossed for you and I hope it is the head gasket.

    IIRC you said you initially drove it and had an issue which was resolver by retorquing the head as it was loose.

    This may well have damaged the gasket and it hence failed. Although would expect a bit more than .

     

    Mike

  10. How strange to see your brake light switch fitted to the brake pedal on your 24v Series LR. My 12v Lwt has this switch under the bonnet behind the brake servo. I thought all Series 3s were the same in this respect!

     

    Yes they are normally mounted under the bonnet by the servo, mine has a very nice shiney expensive replacement one there but it refuses to work correctly or for more than 5 minutes.

    So I obtained and mounted one inside where it can be adjusted easily and works no problem.

    Oh yes and it was a much cheaper switch.

     

    Mike

  11. All new Land Rover brake light switches are a PITA.

    They cannot make things like they used to, you need a very sensitive switch and the patience of a saint to adjusted and readjusted avery trip.

    The prblem is the switch is mounted almost on the pivot fulcrum of the brake pedal.

    I adjusted mine 3 times going to Duxford last year.

    Before I left, before going down the runway, before going home, each time it stopped working very quickly.

    It was an expensive switch not a Britpart one, that might actually have worked:undecided:

     

    I have now made a slight modification that works every time regardless of how long it is left and was really easy to adjust.

    This was done following a chat with the MOT tester, who spent a while getting it working for the MOT. He said it was a common fault these days and there was one good way of fixing it which he has seen on a few occassions.

     

    So my break light switch is now located here

    P1020306.jpg

    All you need is a switch that is ON in the out position and a home nade bracket.

     

    Mike

  12. Excellent news on the MOT and congrats on all the hard work paying off.

    looking forward to seeing your personalisation progress, that will probably be the expensive bit.

    I find the satisfaction you get from actually doing something yourself to be one of the best things about our slightly insane hobby.

    Good to see you shared it around aswell.

    Mine is only on here and EMLRA (http://www.emlra.org)

     

    Mike

     

    PS If only I could get through mine as quick, maybe I should stop driving it:D

  13. Were your end fittings Metric as I think that's where the old British Vehicles might struggle wit all the old Imperial fittings out there.

     

    Its always worth a go though!

     

    Anything can be done, but cost can be an issue of course :shocked:

     

    I find most flexihoses are between two metal pipes.

    If this is the case you can make the new metal pipes up with a metric end for the flexihose and an imperial end for the other connector.

     

    Mike

  14. That's correct: none anywhere. DDA Classic Airlines is the first historical airline in the world(!) to carry passengers in Dakotas without exemptions & under regular Air Operator certificate.

     

    Quite a feat when you take into account that the aircraft is a 1930s design which is operated and maintained by volunteers. :thumbsup:

     

    I really enjoyed flying with them:

     

    So what about Buffalo Airways who operate DC3s on scheduled passenger flights.

    Not forget a C46

    http://www.buffaloairways.com/index.php?page=passenger-service

     

    Mike

     

    PS: I watch Discovery channel

  15. would be good to see that collection in a museum

     

    I totally agree, it is an outstanding collection.

    It is well worth a visit to their open day to view in a field, with interspersed technical talks by some very knowledgeable people on all things Land Rover. The 2013 one on the evolution of the WMIK was very good.

    Next years open day is on the list already.

    http://www.dunsfoldcollection.co.uk/open-days

  16. Next on the agenda was to fix the blowing exhaust, it has been doing that for ages but it has passed MOTs with help from gun gum.

    I always new it blew where the manifold and downpipe met, but seemed to be getting worse.

     

    So it was strip the manifolds off it only had gaskets on the inlet manifold (I know its an option)

    Hmm it appears to be blowing at No. 4 and is that a crack?

    P1020357_zps4c432892.jpg

     

    Gentle tap with the specialist percussive maintenance tool and it was definitely a crack.

    P1020363_zps2802dbe8.jpg

     

    Good job I had already bought a new one.

    Whilst in bits I decided to try out the other thing I did over the summer, I built this

    20141128_110013_zpscd7b3caa.jpg

     

    Air inlet pipe before

    P1020364_zps3dfb1481.jpg

     

    and after

    P1020365_zpsd5dc7ec0.jpg

     

    It then got painted and refitted.

    i also took the opportunity to change the carb over as this one never seemed to want to run right.

    Now has a proper Zenith 361V (at least that is what is on the side). Replaced gaskets and cleaned up and fitted.

    20141128_110156_zps159c5384.jpg

     

    It now seems to tickover more reliably, starts better, revs better, all I need to do is see if it runs better, a job for the weekend.

    So far it seems to be one of the best tenners I have spent.

     

    Mike

  17. Well another summer has passed us by and I seem to have got nothing done on the truck.

    I reckon the only thing slower than s Series 3 is my restoration pace..

    My excuse was the weather was good so I went out to play, OK only once

    IMAG0054_zpsaa3a4401.jpg

     

    Shortly after this weekend it rained most or was alternatively busy.

    Bank holiday weekend I noticed a new oil leak. Then went to Bournemouth for the airshow.

    Got homw and OPEC had set up camp on my driveway.

    Sloping drives are very good for letting the oil run out passed a failed front oil seal on the transfer box.

    So floor out and prop off

    P1020347_zps01cde830.jpg

     

    Those old leather and steel seals are right pigs to get out.

    Cleaned chassis and painted the floor UJs on the prop were a little bit stiff but a good clean, paint and a large injection of fresh grease fixed that.

    P1020348_zps9a6ce870.jpg

    P1020351_zps340e357c.jpg

     

    That is an improvement.

     

    Mike

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