cosrec

Gear Change there is mounted on the horizontal shaft that comes out of the top of the gearbox a cam with a collar arrangment that is located with a grub screw. this screw works loose and gives the same symptoms you discribe. Getting at will be niegh on impossible with the spare wheel on but is easy to sort out and put back to correct position. On mine it had been loose for that long the centre had worn oval and i simply threw it away.

 

Q: WOULD YOU ADVISE LIFTING SPARE WHEEL DOWN FOR THIS THEN? AND THEN I PRESUME SOME FLOOR PANEL OFF?

 

Power steering check oil level first.

Q: WILL DO. WHAT IS THE CORRECT FLUID TO USE PLS?

 

Thanks for the guidance. Dan

My apologies thinking of something else when i mentioned spare wheel all you have to do is tilt cab and you get at it under rear walkway at back of cab from N/S.

i use standard hydraulic oil on all our heavy wreckers no doubt somebody will come along with correct grades etc

Hi There `i served 22 yrs as recy mech and used and Instructed on the Foden Eka,

I see youve extended the boom, the Axles fitted are GKN rated at 10t each whats your max lift going to be and how will you get around overloading the axles, as we were always told that we were overloading them as soon as we put Bogie blocking in and when we had a land rover on support never mind bigger stuff, althought there were never any cases of the military being prosecuted even when Crown Exemption was removed many moons ago

John

Hi quite right as a suspend tow machine the EKA Foden is next to useless. When i bought the truck it was in a rough state and rather than put back to mint i decided to make more useful for the civillian world rather than a machine that was nice to look at. I think i have outlined most of the mods in my posts, But to sum up i hacked of every buit of steel that i thought was surplus to requirements. eg the foot holding brackets brackets on crane lockers mudguards army tee heads foot plates sparewheel bracket etc etc. Any kit i put put back on was placed forward and low down. As a result of mods i did with the crane i ended up with a 360 swivelling crane which i can put over the cab when doing suspend tows. Result of all this i have ended up with a truck with rear bogie wieght of 13660kg Mt ready to suspend tow I believe it now has much greater capability than standard even with longer bottom foot. All though if you read i put it would not be used much for this purpose just it would be handy to have if needed. the picture with the 8 wheeler on will have been lifting around 3.25 ton and i suspect the axles will still be with in design wieghts. With out using bogie blocker ( what an abortion of a design that was to get around front end light, load up rear axle to twice its limit but thats just my way of thinking)

So I had my first drive in 34KE59 today. (Prior to that, my son James had moved her round.)

Steering: *extremely* heavy, as if the power steering was off. Occasionally seemed to become light.

Couldn't engage 4th or 8th gear.

No light on when "body electrics" green button pressed. (Looking at the state of some of the red emergency "off" buttons/boxes on the e.k.a. body, I suspect one of them my be failing to disengage.)

Clearly a lot to sort out, but I'm sure we will get there eventually.

But what an awesome piece of equipment.

And we are slowly getting together the c.e.s..

Thanks for the various suggestions; I have asked Mr D. Crouch about ground reaction plates and he is going to get back to me. Regards, Dan

Gear Change there is mounted on the horizontal shaft that comes out of the top of the gearbox a cam with a collar arrangment that is located with a grub screw. this screw works loose and gives the same symptoms you discribe. Getting at will be niegh on impossible with the spare wheel on but is easy to sort out and put back to correct position. On mine it had been loose for that long the centre had worn oval and i simply threw it away.

Power steering check oil level first.

Body electrics if its all there it should basically a case of working through a stage at a time but gets very confusing as various stages are live when operating others must have no power to them or it cuts the whole or part of the system. Basically it will have been working recently so just a case of checking through bit at a time. To start check the main relay(s) on the vehicle relay panal the ones you need have a dotted white line printed around them on the relay panal or are shown on the wiring diagram behind the dash panals.

The plates you refer to will be available. I threw mine in the scrap bin when i was on a wieght cutting exercise. and replaced with various lengths of good sleeper timber 18" long with holes drilled in and rope handles fitted. The two i use under the back legs when on hard ground have a strip on 3"*1.5" channel screwed to them

Another question - did the cold-start system use ether? And does "cold start" mean less than about -20C?!

Hi i have never looked in to the cold start system. But i believe it works on the same system as the old tractors the tank was filled with derv or parrafin and when pumped sprayed fuel on to a heated element in the inlet manifold causing it to ignite. Or at least thats how it worked on an old Knackered civillian crusader i had many years ago. Next time i tilt cab i will have a look for you. If the batteries are in good order you should not have any problems here in the UK. That is if you can stand the eyewatering moments when it starts and is getting up to working temprature

Hi Radiomike.

 

Many thanks for the info:

 

I don't pretend to understand all the regulations concerning special loads etc so your advice is very welcome.

 

I know it may be a bit tricky with weights etc but I am looking for a suitable trailer to overcome the issues.

 

The only thing I think you may be mistaken on is I intend to tax the vehicle as Private HGV at £220 per year as I will only be moving my own tank. As I understand, the road fund tax disc for special types is as you suggested ridiculously expensive but it will not apply to my vehicle as stated above.

#

I stand to be corrected of course.

 

Is there any reason why I can not use a draw bar trailer as I have found a 40 wheel, 80 ton trailer. 3 axles at the rear and 2 at the front?

 

Again the regulations may prevent me from using this but the trailer is designed for tank transporting and this would stop any issues with being over weight, etc?

 

Markheliops

Now i might be completely wrong here but but do you think plant hire companies would be going to the expence of STGO vehicles and all it entails after all they are only moving their own crawler cranes D8s etc around or have you a loop hole that could save them a load of money. If it were that simple i think some of the cute one man operators that run big equpment would have twigged and taxed their vehicles Private HGV by now. I know of a one man operation who runs a sismic testing machine who pays £40000 to get his 44 ton machine moved each year common sense tells me he would found a get out of jail free card by now

Dont you just hate it when this happens

Only thing i would add is not only can they soon go overweight even if you know the vehicle you are carrying is well under run it over a level weigh bridge and do the axle wieghts individually. Front axles soon go over if vehicle is any length in wheelbase and you pull say a landrover up to head board also dont forget to sit yourself and a passenger in and have all the gear you want to carry on board . Only have to do it once costs a fiver. Save a lot of money if you do get pulled. Placing a vehicle in different places on the bed makes huge differences to individual axle weights.

Not been a nautical person i have no knowledge of ships or boats. Did once ask a Dutch first mate called Heneri on board RORO MV Norstar what the differenced was his reply "Idiot you know a ship can have boat on board a boat cannot have a ship on board" So apart from gleaning ones bigger than the other I gave up trying to understand after that???

Many posts ago i stressed the importance of not using towing eyes on cars or commercials.

Well here you are a bit of vidieo evidence showing the kind of damage that can occur. Think it also has a military theme as well looking at truck fastened to renault with boat on

Welcome to HMVF

Have just spent a a long time read reading your thread on the Man 4 axle wrecker the model is an absolute credit to you

sehr sehr gutt

Hope you have luck with info on the BAOR Uranus trucks.

Many years (20?) ago i caught the ferry from Hertchell DN to Kristiansund N and on the frieght deck i was parked next to an identical one behind a wrecker but it had US markings

Sorry i have just been informed (by my wife) it was the ferry from Puttigarden D to Robbyhaven DN .

Here is 34KE59 in its new home in the dry, where it has been now for a few months.

Did you get new rope for top boom have 500 meteres brand new on reel if you need any

My dad and uncle has owned a scrap export yard for more than 50 years, and the most I have even seen light iron at is 175 a ton and heavy iron 240 a Aec militant and other big lumps get bought a lot of the time as oversized scrap which means less money because they have to cut it up there self.

Remember them prices quoted were from 2 years ago believe a**e fallen out of market at the moment

Also no cash anymore all been stopped Cheque only and they want invoice least thats how it is around our parts.

Our local scrap yard has started selling logs now to try and make a living.

as someone has pionted out the brakes on a Martian are actually very good if serviced correctly. I did look into fitting spring pots on rear boggie But it would have been a nightmare and advised it would not be accepted for test as it could overload brake anchor pionts. As a halfway solution i put a spring pot on the hand brake and piped it in to the dead man on the steering column. Thus you could not set of with out full air pressure. It passed at least 4 mots with this set up. Pressure on nylon pipe no problem maximum you will ever put thru is 120 psi

long long time since i had a Martian so i cant remember if pipes were flared or had olives on them. Either way i would go down the route of using nylon airline piping. even if pipe is flared you can counter drill unions to accept olives and barrel nuts are long enough to accept olives. i know i did change a few pipes on both the martians i had using this method. Once painted it takes a good eye to detect the difference. the olives you need may be thinner than standard ones but are available they bite in and seal with out inserts in pipe. Saves lots of time and money just depends how much of a purist you are

Sorry i got knocked of before finishing my last post.

Re advice from Monty2 and big ray what they say makes complete sense about loads coming under greater forces when braking hiting things then when accelerating or cornering.

But and this is a big But dont think it is only vehicles on the back that accelerate forward in the event of an accident.

Over the years i have been to many many accidents where people have died and had serious injuries caused by things we would not normally think about.

People out in a firms van

I had one accident driver picked up can 25 litres oil opened back door dropped it in drove off whacked back wheel of a stationary truck in fog killed

Same senario parts van delivering a new brake drum driver killed.

Driver who worked for my father picked up a reground crankshaft ran into a dyke killed

Lad who still works for us now had small tool box tight up to bulkhead in back of escort van went in dyke box shot forward into roof crushing his arm nearly lost it.

2 rear seat passengers not belted in on mondeo both got broken noses two front seat passengers dead.

6 young farmers soft top landrover pick up one on wheel arch d/S/R catapulted through passenger windcreen broken spine every body else walked away

So advice i give not only look were your going think whats behind you as well

My two pence worth on subject.

All our slide beds bevertails have four ratchet straps two each side laid out on deck with wheels straps fitted on each.

Our drivers are told to winch vehicles on using j hooks even if vehicle runs.

When on apply handbrake.

Fit all four ratchet straps to wheels.

Slacken of winch rope if for any reason its fasten to body but leave attached

If on Motorway or dangerous situation fit two staps to nearside wheels. fit remaining two at earliest oppertunity

We advise against straping to bodywork/chassis for two reasons

1 when pulling against body chassis the vehicle can still move up and down going over bumps and under braking causing staps to chaff and slacken

2 some vehicles now have reactive suspension i have seen a very expensive land rover in a dealers with broken back wishbone because it tried to fight its way back to ride hieght against ratchet straps.

We stress to drivers to concentrate on stopping initial movment of vehicle rather wondering what will happen if they hit a brick wall

Nice to see you putting these winches to good use Steve.

Could put a lot more to good use if could find them at right price. They are certainly a nice piece of kit. The daf they were fitted to finally went to work yesterday. Son and another lad who worked it are more than happy with performance of winches. Time will tell but they are more than a match for anything available on the civillian market at eqivalent rating 10 ton

I know thw area, around what is known as the 'Heads of the Valley', my family originate there. Look on a map and places look close together, then look at the contour lines in bettween! Bleanavon is home to the Big Pit Coal Mine musuem, well worth a vist.

Took a skid mounted generator to the big pit museum been donated by Mines Rescue wieghed 8 ton. It was April time windows open roasting going down M5 when about 2 miles off turned through a housing estate and up a bloody big hill. fresh snow and ice got balked by car that had skidded on tight bend could not get set of again had to reverse back nearly to bottom and set of again.

To top it all i parked at the museum the fellas took me for a diner in the canteen when we walked be to truck to unload generator the whole carpark was awash with derv. the fuel tank on the generator under all the cowlings had slide back on its mounts and smashed a fuel bowl of dropping about 70 gallons on the floor

What did you use to make a new termination on the cable?

 

R

We sent the cables to our local ship riggers/ test house they swagged on two New hooks with Tulrit splices £45 i think its cheap for peace of mind. plus lot easier to handle than the MOD blocks they come with

No i havnt got any manuals for the vehicle. We havent found any way of anchoring the wire. there is hole cast into the drum for the wire. we have drilled and tappped in to the side of this and anchored the wire with grub screws.

there may be something on the backside of drum but you would have to disassemble the winch to see this

[YOUTUBE][http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KyFJuF0-lI/YOUTUBE]

what can you say????

I am hoping it stays like this for a while been flatout. All the jobs are not on public roads but down the long private raised roads to farms. When snow first fell farmer paddles up and down with big tractors and 4X4s compacting snow fresh snow falls more compacting. snow ends frozen ice 3in thick. delivery trucks oil tankers coal men livestock feed supplies start falling of roads. kind hearted farmers then spend two hours with 4 assorted large tractors spining polishing ice finally getting trucks completely of road or rolled Bless um. Sad to think if they spent 15 min running up freshly fallen snow with a bucket on filler they would save a lot of money on repairs to their own roads. Their own time and diesel putting trucks further in the ****. Maybe its common sense but i wont knock it

Hi we have fitted two of the Foden front mounted winches to a modern Daf wrecker. When we fitted the winches the cables at the hook end had both been burnt of. In order to get new ends on we pulled the ropes in freewheel and to our suprise both cables completely came of the drum with no effort. the ropes have now got nice new hooks on and have been refitted and we have drilled and tapped the drum to fit grub screws to terminate the cable to the drum. My question is how on earth were they fitted originally surely not the end of the rope just poked through the hole in the drum.

so what is your question is it good paint or it a good match for the colours you have uncovered

earlier to day i posted under no snow but it worked out good for us so a couple of pics and will give advice whats going on

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