ruggyjohn

Hi Richard, what I think of Gardner enthusiast is not printable on here, suffice to say do not touch him with a barge pole, liar and a thief. Gardner marine are not cheap but charge the going rate, are very knowledgable on gardners and have a large amount of spares, wish I had gone there in the first place but you live and learn.

Thanks simon, just been on flea bay and found a copy for 30 quid posted so have bought it, again many thanks for the info. John.

I am in the same boat as mark, I am we'll in to the restoration of a scammell sv2s and would like some help with markings also, who operated the scammells during the war ?, it is hopefully going to Normandy next year so would this have a bearing on the markings, all suggestions appreciated. By the way mark I can probably see your house from where I live, send me a pm so we can get in touch. John.

hi, are you rebuilding the rear body as standard or keeping the ballast box.

Just reboarding my scammell, used softwood as it will all be painted also cheaper and lighter than hardwood. The board size is 5.1/2 x 1.1/8 after planing, tongue and groove, I had to pay nearly a £1.00 a foot. And to replace it all you will need 600ft, screw fix cheap enough for slot headed screws,

thanks for that, looks like they will have everything i will need to build my own loom.

the scammell resto is now getting to the point of needing a wiring loom, where do i find the period cloth covered wiring, or does anybody do a complete loom, a big ask but you never know. many thanks john.

Can recommend Gardner marine, very helpful, hindle in bradford did the white metal bearings and also some work on the crank, they have done a lot of work on Gardner engines over the years.

Hi Richard, just about everything, re ground crank new mains and big ends, new pistons and liners ,valve seats recut new valve guides and valves, recon injector pump and injectors, new timing chain, rebuilt starter nos dynamo and water pump, once you start where do you stop, it was in a very poor state when first dismantled, all the white metal bearings were starting to break up, looked like a jigsaw with pieces missing, plus I won't be parting with it any time soon and hopefully will be finished for Normandy next year so it needs to be right.

Just a quick update, engine now going back together, various issues now overcome, winch ready to fit on chassis after repair, body blasted painted and now getting boarded.

how fast is a scammell pioneer ? i think 25mph on a flat strech of road is asking too much of the old girl, and if so should it have been on the motorway to start with, not being judge and jury but i am restoring a pioneer and when finished i will low loader it rather than drive on a motorway.

Are you sure about the 25mph minimum speed limit on Motorways ? according to the highway code there is no minimum speed unless advised on a blue sign.

Yes there is a minimum speed required, tractors are not allowed on motorways due to there slow speeds, 40k-50k and there are signs before some motorways directing slow vehicles on alternative routes.

Still working on the engine, couldn't get the piston height the same across all the bores, finally took the crank to hindles in Bradford who say the big ends have not been ground correctly, mains were still standard, also found one of the white metal bearings on the mains damaged, this is after Gardner enthusiast was supposed to have rebuilt the bottom end ? At least now I know what's wrong and can repair it, trying to get her finished for Norma nay 2014 which doesn't seem so far away now, on a more positive note whinch is mostly done and have found somebody to give me a hand boarding the rear body,going to struggle to do much for the next 6 weeks with work comitments but then it will be full steam ahead again. The joys of vehicle restoration,!!!!!!! Very frustrating and rewarding in equal measures.

did you meen 35k,?. i have a 981 and 22mph is spot on for top speed, i can average about 18mph on a run. it also will be in normandy june 2014 so hopefully we will bump in to each other, not literally i hope!!!!

hi all, is it possible to get a copy of a workshop manual either original or copy for the morris, would help me a lot during the restoration, thanks john.

While wandering around the Spartan at the weekend deciding where to start, I convinced myself to take advantage of the fact the vehicle is already half stripped and get stuff like shotblasting out of the way first. Don't want grit getting all in my repaired electrics and engine etc..

 

What sort of prices have people paid for mobile shotblasters to do a (CVRT sized) vehicle?

 

I'm toying with trying to save money and do it myself. I can borrow a 5/6hp petrol compressor and a hand held shotblasting gun from the usual suspects are only about £20/30.. obviously I'd still need the blasting media and a respirator but I'll need that for respraying anyway.

 

Has anyone got any advice/experience on this or is this one of those jobs thats just better left to someone else?

 

Cheers,

James

simple answer is dont do it, it will take forever, cost a fortune in sand, which will go everywhere, leave it to the people who know what they are doing, a vehicle that size needs a road compressor and a 2 bag pot at least, plus its the dirtiest job you will ever have done, so to recap DONT DO IT YOURSELF.

Hi John, yeah I made one from a spare hub cap, the problem is I think I used too coarse a thread to apply the force.

I've managed to borrow a fellow HMVFers made up puller to be going on with till I find a nice big nut and bolt with a finer thread.

Many thanks for your reply. Richard

use a large metric cap head bolt, its harder than a normal 8.8 you will need an allen key to fit but easier to put some scaffold tube on though than a spanner. john

hi scammell 4199, made a puller from the hubcap myself, worked a treat, the secret is to keep on tightening until the drum comes off, it will take a lot of force but they will come off, did all four of mine and will be going to a pioneer owner on friday to remove his drums aswell.

diesels not that flammable, get as much out as you can, give it a rinse with the hosepipe, then cut out the bottom with a grinder or torch, good steam clean with the bottom out prior to welding. job done

thanks rms, can you pm me with a contact number and i will grt in touch, again many thanks john.

hi, i know its a bit of but would like to start and get things in place, will be taking a scammell pioneer or diamond t 981 to normandy for the anniversary and need somewhere to park a lowloader for a week or so fairly close to the ferry from portsmouth, if anybody has a yard or a mate with a yard that would be great, must be secure and am willing to contribute for the help. thanks john.

does your plan to let the public drive need planning permission ?. also need to check with the owner, if they receive payments from defra it wont be allowed. not good farming practice you see, sorry to bring this up, but better now than a court appearance later.

i hope that was your own field, if not i bet the farmers not very happy. :cry: