ruggyjohn

Hi I think if you are thinking of offering a recovery service you going to have to do better than that reply to get a good take up. the question was can you recover an 8 wheel drops with a load on its back yes or no My reply would be of course sir where do you want it

why is it paulob1 seems to get up people's noses

thanks for that niels have sent him an email.

hi, can anyone help please,i am looking for replacement brass plates for my scammell pioneer, none were on it when bought, is there a company that can replicate them, many thanks john.

Now in the new workshop and back on the scammell, not going well,thought front cab panel was ok, but alas more bodging .

The lever seems to be bend backwards at the base and then bends forward before going straight up again. A little heat should indeed do the trick.

 

With more effort than expected we managed to move the cargo box in the cabin this weekend:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106344[/ATTACH]

 

Upon inspection we noticed several modifications, some of them I am not sure are original, others are more obvious. I hope someone can comment on this:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106345[/ATTACH]

LH rear: the chalked off holes and the crossed-out "mount" I believe are not wartime.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106346[/ATTACH]

RH rear: same with these holes, not wartime(?)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106347[/ATTACH]

RH front: the cable guide, welded place holders for the bows and L-shaped corner bracket do seem to be field modifications

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106348[/ATTACH]

LH front: apart from the welded L-bracket and non-original cable guide, what is with the two holes? Modification? This is where the tire lifting device sits, fixed with a canvas strap.

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]106349[/ATTACH]

RH front, inside: is this tube original? Welded in place and seated in a cutout in the side, it goes right through the bottom of the box, open at the underside. Frankly, I cannot find any specific purpose for it. Again a modification?

 

I am very interested in your comments!

it takes the jib for the spare wheel

Hi Steve,

 

thanks for letting me know and not a problem; someday the Steve in question will turn up

 

Meanwhile we noticed something I am hoping someone here may have a answer to. We found out that, when putting the DT in 1st gear, the gear lever hits the cowl. As you can see from the picture -sorry, I could not get it to rotate- sitting in 1st gear the stick is too close to the dashboard:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105902[/ATTACH]

 

The cowl is 100% properly attached to the rear of the cabin so unproper seating of the cabin cannot be cause.

 

Does anybody know if the travel of the gear stick can somehow be adjusted?

hi, mine does the same, you have to be careful you dont trap your fingers, just thought it was a quirk of the vehicle, never been a problem when i drive it.

springs greased between the leaves give a softer ride, in other words they work better and also you dont get the rusty streaks dribbling down the side of your springs.

Having stripped my rear MCC PU springs I have 'lightly' blasted them, so as not to destroy their tension.

 

Now, on re assembly, do I prime all round and put together dry, or Prime, grease and put together or put together bare of paint but just grease ?

 

what's the correct way ? also if I grease them the top coat of O/D won't hold........................

 

cheers

 

Jules

prime paint od, grease between the leaves then reassemble

hi dizzyt, what anniversary is that.

make your own acess holes by cutting out then weld them back in afterwards, with a grind up and paint you will never know it was done.

lol try loading an ot-90 (2.95 meters wide) on to a beaver tail or low loader :argh:

quite easy with outriggers, moved stuff wider than that . :cool2:

in reply to datadawg, the majority of plant and vehicles moved on the roads today are done so by lowloaders, its the safest way full stop, if your worried about reversing a trailer then fit a jaw to the front of your vehicle, it is then made a lot simpler, if you have to buy and store a trailer it makes it more inconvenient for you but a hell of a lot safer, you should also note from reading this thread, and please do so from the start or you will incur the wrath of paulnob1 that his views are in a distinct minority, finally a plant trailer or lowboy as you call them over there have a multitude of other uses so you might get more out of it than you think.

Well now its started I have to do this...sorry guys...

 

the daf is 15,000 kgs with a rack, or thereabout.

 

the 432 can be up to 13750 kgs

 

the daf can legally only carry 30,000kgs. it has steel suspension.

 

so you could be very close to the legal limit..

 

I would have the combination weighed prior to driving...ideally you will need to

 

1. make sure you know the exact weight of your 432...if it is close to 15 tons you are heading into very tricky scenarios.

2. take the daf and have it weighbridged fully loaded with fuel...and everything you will normally carry including the said rack..i suspect this will be close to 15 tons or more.

3. make sure the combination does not exceed 30 tons. wheel loading should be checked but be aware that our tyres are classed as supper singles they are over 300mm wide...so the same as twin wheels...in most circumstances...so its unlikely you will exceed 19,000 kgs on the rear bogies, but you must have the load as far forward as possible.

 

however you may have to unload the 432 of any fuel, and removable parts and put them on a small trailer behind the truck...tools spare tyres etc

 

for my peace of mind I am going to the weighbridge next week, my daf is having a full service so is off the road at the moment. as soon as we have the new oil pressure switch sorted we will go test it and our 432 too..

i think paulnob1 is getting his gross and tare weights confused, rustytrucks is speaking from experience and knowledge of the facts, if you really fancy a drops thats fine, but dont justify it by asking it to do something that is unsafe.

hi adrian, there are plenty of 980 & 981 diamonds up north so don't just look after the the southern softie's :cool2:. if its the midlands then it should be fair to everyone, glad to bring my 981 and will talk to dave weedon as his collection of diamonds gets bigger.

richard is spot on with the welded nut routine, but you should first weld a washer to the stud then weld your nut to the washer by filling the nut with weld but you can also put small welds on the out side of the nut to the washer, never failed to remove studs but sometimes it can take up to 5 trys if the nut keeps snapping off, little bit of movement at a time works best and to let it cool enough for you to touch it also before trying to undo, it lets the stud shrink after being heated by the weld.

neat paraffin for a parts washer. perfectly safe, very low flash point

New door frames being built, just when I thought I was getting on top of the cab work.

am on the search for a MAZ and agree totally on your input, I will have littered all over the museum tanks to play in on and around and guns that move and can be played with...will have special firing ranges built too to allow people to fire real weapons subject to permissions and things but that will cost the punters dear...would like to have a gun that fires also but unlikely that ambition will be met easily, neighbours fretting about noise and all that...

 

I am totally not interested in nut and bolt restorations...unless someone else is paying us to do it...Andy my chief mechanic is a total perfectionist but for the museum i like real, as they are collected...as they were used as they became etc...

Sounds very grand but an insurance and h+s nightmare, is this a profit making venture or simply to let the public see your vehicles.

fit a new fuse box, cured a lot of faults on my morris

hi richard, forgot to ask how is your pioneer resto coming along hope all is well. john

hi richard, used a dti gauge in the end instead of making some trammells as it says in the workshop manual, you can see it in one of the pics, got it to within 5 thou, there is some play on the gearbox input shaft bearing so there was a little guess work involved, what takes the longest is undoing the engine mounts every time to remove or add shim material and then tighten everything down before taking another measurement, made 4 adjustments before we were happy with it, i am now waiting for comments on one of the pics where it doesnt look right for a pioneer ?.

Further progress.

Some copper pipes on the engine have been left unpainted along with some ally parts including the injector pump, I know its not correct but I think it just lifts the appearance of the engine without going over the top, radiator now fitted along with the diesel tank, next job is to Finnish the cab window frames, blast and paint then refit.

Some more pics of work so far.