marvinthemartian

If you have tarted up a distributer box or generator panel, and the record plate is scruffy and corroded, what do you do? I certain that they wont clean up, so it may be easier to make them up. The only way I can think of is mess around with Excel to create something alike, and possibly print it off onto white or maybe clear transfer paper, then a piece of ali sheet or plasticard used for the base. Then maybe a coating of sealer to stop the edges peeling up, and if I can aquire any rivets small enough, these could be simply glued into the existing mounting holes. I'm guessing this is the usual state of plates, well unless they're brand new of course!!

Against a shiny black unit it looks very shabby.

The going is slow but sure, but I'll get there one day. So long as it is done in the next 2 to 3 years, well that is my plan, I'll be happy. Really hoping to get it done in time for daughters school prom, and that is about 4 years away, so plenty of time yet.

Simon

Had a look on their site, the section you need is airframe, which is under the other cables tab. I have also sent off a query regarding the availability of Uninyven and also Unipren, as I could do with some for my truck, and just wait and see what sort of reply I receive from them.

Cheers

Simon

Just browsing the threads, and internet, found this site amongst many others

http://www.cablesbritain.com

not sure if it'll work or not.

Cheers

Simon

Apart from the contents, beer bottle do have other uses, I find them good for holding bungs/bolts etc so that the heads can be painted. These are for the antifreezer, drain bung in red, and level bung yellow.

Thanks to some sunny weather I got some more painting done, still on brake antifreezer, primered first then a coating of engine blue.

Another item removed, my sheds are full of bits removed or just pieces of truck! It's amazing how much blooming space vehicle parts take up!!! Anyway, this is the air system methaol tank that is (was) bolted to the bulkhead.

Didn't take much stripping.

Eventually got both end caps and whatnots off, as there wasn't any air or fluid pressure in them before they were stripped it was very easy to unscrew the ends by hand after the initial tightness had been overcome. Next pic shows the insides.

And one of the empty barrels.

I have managed to get some seals for these from Banisters, but they didn't have enough to do the whole lot, does anyone know where else I can get these from?

Whilst on the steering subject, I have whipped off the accumulators for servicing.

As they are on the truck.

Had to make up some spanners to get the end fittings off, and a large vice and big stilsons helped no end too!!

Now for something completely different. Hydraulic steering pump, Lockheed Mk7. It took me a quite a while to source some new seals, 2 different sizes are fitted, and 1 is now obsolete. But I have got around that little problem. Of the 3 seals that are fitted, there are 2 that are 1/4 " thick, and ! is 3/8 " thick. Both are 1 1/8" OD, with 9/16" ID, the latter is no longer available, so I made up a spacer to take up the slack. These pumps were originally designed for use in aircraft, as noted in the parts manual as everything is prefixed AIR. After much searching on the net I found a company that refurbishes AP Lockheed undercarriage units, and from them I obtained a name of a supplier of the seals.

First pic shows the pump in situ on the truck, a doddle to get to without the front wing fitted!!!

Pump now separated, this shot shows the radial piston arrangement.

Old seals removed with the other part of the pump.

Nice new seals ready to fit.

All back together and primed.

Followed by a coating of engine blue.

Top continued....

More new bits fitted.

More filler slapped on to neaten the join.

I'll skip a few stages as it's the same as the other doors really, but this shows new bits going together.

Skin being put into place.

Repairs to the top rail.

Now the rear one, rotted top and bottom just like the drivers door.

Certainly seen better days!!!

Slap a bit of filler on the repair and sand it smooth.

Followed by zinc phosphate primer to keep the rust away for a bit!

Nearly done this one.

With the frame finished on goes the door skin repair piece.

More views of the repairs.

Some new bits glued on ...

Another shot of the rot before I lop it all off..

Frame to be repaired first..

Time I put a few more pics up on the board, NS doors repaired and painted in primer. Front first, metal moth present as usual along the bottom edge...

Close up of the rot.

Couldn't help but notice the Martian trying to hide in the background.

Just adding on a bit about North Luffenham, when I was a space cadet in the 1990's, we had a weekend camp over there, and I can remember climbing over a Sea Vixen FAW 1 of which there were 3 on the airfield. Also a sorry looking Jet Provost on one of the pans, and a Whirlwind over near the woods. We had to camp in these woods one night in make shift bivvies, and had a large fire going. Some one had taken a piece of the Whirlwind fuselage and dumped it on the fire. It took a long time to ignite but bu99er when it lit the whole area was like day light!!! I guess a lot of magnesium in the aluminium.

Simon

A couple of shots of the Martian windscreen seal, not brilliant pics.

This one shows how the seal fits into the window frame.

Cheers

Simon

Sent them a sample of windscreen rubber seal for the Martian, as i can't locate it anywhere. Got return email about a week later, £135 development charge plus yea much per metre. Will save some pennies and get it made.

Simon

Just an addition to the above, make sure that all air pressure is released from the accumulator before stripping down, and release all fluid pressure before undoing pipes by working the steering wheel left and right until there is none left, brake pressure released by applying brakes frequently. These accumulators have high pressure at both ends and can be very dangerous!!!!

Cheers

Simon