shopnut

Will be there collecting a GMC-CCKW canvas :-) from John Worthing and probaly buying some items that I will never use, just thought it might come in useful :-(

Still a great looking truck though, although markings were very roughly applied see page 23 of 'GMC Universal Truck' . :-)

Hi Marko

Was the shop van body U.S. manufacture?, do you still have it?

Regards

Shopnut

Hi Mark

Accessed the site, but could not get pass the security, would this site be for WW2 trucks?

Many Thanks

Any one out there with a CCKW, original U.S. shop van body fitted, can tell me if the fuel line from the tank to filter is one complete line or in two parts?, I am fitting a original tank, replacing a non-original tank fitted by previous owner, but unable to see how the fuel line connection can be attached to the stack pipe due to little access between tank and body.

If anyone also knows where I can find, if available, a workshop manual which relates to the shop van.

Thanks in advance.

Hi

Important to remember on 6 volt fuel gauge, is to have a good earth, I always have a earth wire on the sender back to the frame, and ensure a good earth on the gauge to the dash.

Found it worked well.

Hi Jack

You will need to remove the hub complete with brake drum, :-(you have the early type, later trucks are fitted with demountable drums, at the point you are now, remove 3 screws, drum slips off, which makes life a lot easier :-)

Never mind. all good fun.

Rob

Sorry, there is me thinking everyone has CCKW's.

If its better fuel consumption/better road running, try running with one of the rear props removed. I have run a CCKW since 1994 with no problems, drives so much better, only have to engage front wheel drive to move off wet grass as I had 2nd axle not driving, so light on rear, wheels spin wet grass can be a problem, would not recommend if you off road your truck.

Thanks guys, least I now know the size, just have to buy another box spanner, on the metric/imperial topic, the spanner I have just purchased, fits a rear hub nut perfect, was advertised as 70mm :-)

I am hoping it will be 65mm, as this is the size opposite end of the 70mm box spanner just purchased. Thanks for you help with this.

Shopnut

Hi

Thanks for your reply, but I have realised the measurement you have taken was of the the wheel nut bolt, square end, I was, and still am, trying to find the hub nut size, this nut secures hub to stub axle.

Regards

Shopnut

Any one out there know the front hub nut size across the flats?, ie. the rear hub nut is 70mm or 2 3/4". Would also be interested if anyone had the original box spanners.

Thanks

D'ont tell em your name Pike!!!!!!!!

Clive

They are all repeats like Dads Army, be honest you just cant work the recorder :-D

Well organised event at Aldbourne, are you sure your organising Bolero :-D

Shopnut

Jack

If you have not done any work on the brakes, keep in mind flexible brake hoses can collapse internally, allowing fluid to pass under pressure, but not allowing to return, when brakes released.

Shopnut

Yes they are different, small brackets which attach to the chassis, either side at the very rear, the drivers side has provision for the trailer socket. Will see if I can find a picture, seen re pros at Beltring, around £20 each, I think.

Trying to find names/contact for the book stall holders, outside, adjacent to where the vehicles were parked on Sunday. One had a book I interested in, but forgot to go back before I left, can any one help ??

Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys

Not booked in for Duxford, would you know if the let you in with out a booking?

Regards

Hi Mick. I will come down within the next month, also have that drop wing for you. Sure Cara did not push you that hard, if she did, it was well worth it.

Thanks

Shopnut.

Hi Mick. Truck looks great, real credit to you, how did you get so much done in so little time?.

You and Cara have a great weekend at Horndean, just sorry I will not be there to see it.

Shopnut

Work has carried on at its slow pace, cylinder has now been removed along with camshaft. Found on a pressure test that all exhaust valves were leaking, exhaust valves & seats found in poor condition, will renew all exh. valves and cut seats. Changing fibre timing gear for the alloy type. I also found bolt welds broken to timing plate, these bolts secure front of engine through rubber mount to crossmember, will weld bolts to plate again.

Found a puller to remove front crank pulley and gear, this is what Jack wanted some while ago!!!

Its surprising how many parts there are from the engine area, now filled 2 table tops and the process begins to clean and paint them all.

Any one out there with a spare muffler, tailpipe and radiator support bracket, the one that secured to the bulkhead and top radiator frame, would like to hear from you.

Now have the correct fuel tank and a host of spare windows for the Van Body, from the Clubmobile team.

Having removed both wings, brushguard etc., the next step is having the engine, gearbox, front axle and chassis all steam cleaned. I will remove the radiator prior to cleaning, will be easier to access the inner chassis.

When I had the engine running there was a heavy noise, I thought from the crankcase, the good news on this is, that the water pump bearing is U/S, with the drive belt removed, the noise is not there, just as well I did not start to strip the engine, check the easy things first. As you will see from one photo, the drive belt is running out of line, the dynamo fan looks incorrect as those spacers between fan & pulley.

The engine coolant temperature seemed low, removed the thermostat, it was stuck open and the bellows fell apart, replaced with new stat which cost 50 pence from Stoneleigh last week, the £8.00 entry fee does not feel quite as bad now.

Went to remove lower radiator bracket securing nuts, readiness to remove for steam claening, nuts were rusty & seized, heres where a gas torch comes in handy, heated nuts red hot, let the red colour disappear, nuts came off with no problem.

Just need to rectify oil leak from fuel pump spindle.

Should I, as going this far remove the front timing cover and replace fibre timing gear??, but it will mean dropping the sump as well, why did they fit those 2 bolts to the timing cover from the engine side?, never mind all good fun.

Fitted the master switch in postion, I can now isolate the battery, quickly in a emergency, without having to enter the body. As I do not like drilling holes, the switch is clamped to the crossmembers, above the spare wheel.

When I bought the truck, it was a problem to start, and as in previous post, now would not start at all, checking again Saturday, I realised the petrol was a strange colour and did not smell like it should, I obtained fresh petrol, correct colour & smell, hey presto, engine ran fine, apart from oil leaking from the top oil seal on filter, as I had not fitted correctly. Worth remembering petrol goes off, simple solution in the end.

Now thinking of removing body from chassis, sandblast & paint underneath, can also paint front of body and rear of cab.

Hi Mick. Its re the fuel tank, anyway I can contact you to discuss.

Regards