shopnut

Truck looks great, glad it went to a good home and having its restoration completed, was a very sad day when Clive drove her away, or I should say Howard done the driving, not sure who had the longest face that day, me for seeing the truck going or Clive paying the balance!

The fuel tank I removed, which was a tank made up by the previous owner, I think, ended up on another Shopvan in the Kettering area, he had changed the cargo body for a van body and needed a fuel tank, I understand this truck has also been sold on now.

I still think a Shopvan looks better with a closed cab, but that's my opinion.

Hope one day again I can own a CCKW, probably the best truck of its day.

Shopnut

Question please for anyone who has had to clean out a 352 elongated fuel tank. The vehicle we have just started to restore has sat for 10 years minimum the tank whilst looking sound is full of emulsified s..t , I see two drains , is there a baffle in there? Should I steam it out?, with it being near 5' long hard to dry out or blow out with an air line from one end, would appreciate advise from one of you old boys out there to save me wasting time.

If you have the late tank, fillers both sides, these are attached by nuts & studs, I think, if you can remove them, entry holes are large, you have a good chance to steam clean the inside. We just done a tank at work, where we cut 3 holes in the top to gain access to all 3 compartments, large tank, 2 baffles fitted, it was cleaned with no problems, this was a DERV tank and only cut when thoroughly washed internally prior cutting, there was so much debris and rust in there, was the only way to clean out, steam cleaning would not suffice.

Do not cut any fuel tank unless you are 110% all fuel and vapours have been removed.

Hi Folks,

I'm looking to replace some of the steel air brake pipes on my Leyland Martian. I reckon they are 5/8" (The book says 0.628").

 

Does anyone know where to buy the tube, and what type of tool would normally be used to make the flares?

 

Can these be replaced by kunnifer (Cupro-nickel) pipe?

 

Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

Kind Regards,

Duncan

Could try replacing steel pipe with modern plastic pipe, type used on trucks nowadays, available from most commericial factors, you would also need to sort unions, nuts etc to suit pipe and where connections are, this I think would be the tricky part.

If you want to go down the steel pipe route, try a commericial garage, they may be available to offer advice.

Good Luck

When I had CCKW's, I used original looms, then fitted a secondary loom with modern lamps, this kept the original lights as they were and was safer whist driving at night, the secondary loom was just seven core cable, front & rear lamps, '6' fuse holder, indicator switch/relay and a couple of junction boxes, wiring was easy to conceal as were the junction boxes etc., light brackets were made for easy removal with connecter to loom and could be removed easily for the original look when at shows, something I never did.

Only wish I still had a CCKW, best trucks ever produced.

There are 2 of these items, they are used to enable the 'hernia' bar (not shown), to fit in a lower position to tow a lighter vehicle, the 'hernia' bar is a heavy member with a Nato pintle hook fitted, the position shown in the picture with the red circle around is the correct usage position, the other one is the opposite side.

That,s how I understand it.

Hi,

 

I recently acquired a User's Handbook for the Foden Wrecker and have been reading through it a few times :readbook: to absorb the material. Unlike U.S. manuals, the listing/description of the wrecker's associated recovery equipment is somewhat vague. Some equipment is shown laid out however most of the assocated recovery equipment is shown stowed away in their respective tool boxes and can't been seen due to the bad pictures. While looking at some photos I noticed a piece of "kit" that wasn't shown in any illustrations etc. in the User's Handbook.

 

I have attached some photos with the item in question circled. It can be obviously seen in one photo that this "item" is used as a mechanical lock for the rear winching spades during transport. It appears that there are others uses intended for this item as it has the two pin hole pattern that matches the rear pin-board for the underlift and detachable pintle hitch. What else is this item used for?

 

Thanks for your help, this is a great thread!

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]67385[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]67386[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]67387[/ATTACH]

Many thanks for that information, and so prompt.

I am trying to find the weight of a Land Rover Ambulance, Type XD130, unladen or laden, any help would be appriecated.

Thanks in advance.

And its easier to remove and refit with the lid off and fill with oil, but don't drop any thing in there...................

If you have a jib for your fork truck, it could be used with a good lifting strop, also would be easier to remove the PTO prior removing gearbox.

I do have a good used gearbox and clutch assembly, if you are interested, and a complete engine, that might be going a little to far.

Regards

Will be there, working, should be a Great Day........

There's a group that restores and operates the military vehicles in the museum. http://www.das.org.uk/militaryvehicles.htm

 

If you're interested, PM me and I'll pass the contact details along

Thanks for the reply, I do know DAS, thought you may have meant another group.

Hi Andy,

 

There's a few folks in the area who made it up to Huntingdon for the local MVT meet (just starting out), and there's also the gang down the road at Duxford.

 

Hopefully I'll bump into you at one of the do's or shows.

 

TTFN

Lauren

Hi Lauren

Who is the gang at Duxford?

Regards

Many thanks for all the replies.

Would anyone out there have the max width of a Dodge Weapons Carrier?.

Thanks in advance

David

Thanks for your thoughts. I suspect mine is ex French as the engine has been repainted green at some time, but that is just a hunch, can't say for certain. My options would appear to be:

 

1. Shorten the pipe from the gauge, to get the flexi pipe to fit.

 

2. Get a new flexi pipe made up at a firm in Peterborough called Pirtek.

 

3. Do nothing...

 

Option 2 is my current preferred course of action as I don't have a tool to shorten the pipe.

 

I shall sleep on it.

 

Kind regards

 

Ian

I would suggest you change that pipe, they have a nasty habit of bursting, normally happens when driving, spraying oil every where, including that very hot exhaust manifold!, you dont want a fire and another point to consider, possible engine damage.

A GMC I was driving developed a pin prick hole in this hose, squirting oil over the exhaust downpipe, what I noticed was a lot of white smoke in the mirror, lucky as per N.O.S., I had a spare in the 'box', very easy to change.

The hose from R.W. looks correct, never seen a pigtail hose.

Would advise any GMC owner to replace this hose, as a preventive measure, if they do not know when it was last renewed, and then keep the old one in the 'box' as a emergency fix.

bit of an update to this thread, had a couple of hours free today and made a start to rule out the noises on my engine.

 

started by disconnecting the vacuum line to the hydrovac to rule out air leaks on that, also the vacuum line to wipers, no change on either.

then dropped off the fan belt to rule out the alternator and water pump, no change on that either.

 

The first is a squeak this now seems to be a wheezing sound and it looks as though it's a vacuum leak on the far ends of inlet manifold ports to the cylinder head joints !!!

 

The second noise which is a knock this now sounds like an exhaust blow as it is much louder on the manifold side than the other side of the engine, the two could be connected as the exhaust manifold is very close to being beyond any use and the fact that the lnlet is bolted to it might mean I need to change both !!!!!!!!!

You may already know this, but make sure the guide collars/rings are fitted between inlet manifold and head, if they are not fitted the whole manifold can slip down, and cause some interesting problems, I know because it happened to me many years ago.

Regards

I got them Monday, but just opened them today,

 

 

Also be interested, agree with N.O.S., a UK distributor.

You'll find that regularly there are people stripping Champs & sometimes NOS bits turn up. Having helped dispose of 2 Champs & bits in the last year I have been very sensitive to adverts popping up regularly with people selling bits. Then of course the engine & dash instruments have a commonality with other B Series vehicles.

 

If you want Champ publications I have quite a few left including the parts book covering all models which includes the civilian model.

Thanks for your reply, all looks positive, there are parts out there, could you pm me with what books you have please.

Just a question on Austin Champs, what is parts supply like for these vehicles?, more so the body parts.

Thanks in advance.

Have you researched the proper data plates? There are over 21 different plates in 5 major groups. The plates that come from 'Poland' (I see them on ebay) are lacking as to correct plates.

 

None should be brass. They used zinc for production trucks. I cannot find anything that points to brass plates (some very, very early trucks had factory brass plates) but like the great rubber purge, brass was quickly put on the 'strategic materials' list and data plates would not have been given an exception.

 

Post your trucks SN if you like and I can get some plate info for you.

Hi

I did purchase and remove a set of plates, except chassis no' plate, which was missing, from a closed cab, truck and cab was derilect, when I got them home, cleaned off the layers of paint and grime, plates were brass, this must have been a early truck. I would not want to use them on a open cab.

As I have a late open cab, its as you state, the zinc plated type I am looking for, truck serial No' 353-359616-1.

Would still like to hear from you David when you receive yours.

Regards

Hi shopnut,

 

I have got a set of plates for a Gmc cckw "Tipper" being delivered sometime in the next week or so.

They are coming from Poland, i will let you know what they are like when they arrive.

 

Regards David Robertson.

Thanks David, look forward to your thoughts on the plates. Shopnut.

Anyone out there know of a supplier for the dash data plates for a open cab CCKW, repros would be fine as long as quality is good.

Thanks in advance.

One check you could make, and its easy, remove cover from regulator, assuming you still have the standard regulator, run the the engine, check and see if the points close on the cut out regulator , the one nearest to centre of truck, they should close when you take the up revs up, if they dont, fault could be with generator/wiring, if they close, fault could be with the regulator.

WORD OF WARNING. Do not be tempted to close cut out points manually, with engine not running, this will make a circuit between battery and generator, and will try and turn the generator, like a motor. I remember this happening in Holland many years ago, a lot of smoke in the engine compartment, the truck belonged to a regular member on this forum, who now resides in Suffolk.

Hope this helps.

dont know how much space lee has at the lockup why not try him

P.M. Sent.

Hi

Looking at storage for 2 CCKW,s plus trailers, would also need access to carry out maintenance, ideally in West Suffolk/Essex.

Its a long shot, but if you dont ask....................

Thanks in advance.