paulob1

Fantastic responses :-D

 

have now got several sources for the bolts but need to know thread type

 

im looking for a couple of bolts for the bottom of the windscreen that bolt on the rubber spacers

 

one is a cross head

the other a hex marked "verbut 8:8"

 

 

any one know if they would be UNF or UNC for 1955 M38a1 (nekaf)

Its simple UNF is fine thread, ie it is very close together easy to recognise against UNC coarse thread which is very open and coarse...unlikely that you can mistake the two...

metric thread for sure...on the bolt with verbut on it...

Okay here's a tricky question...I may just have access to one and am thinking of buying it...anyone any idea if parts are available and what the cost of a full ground up restoration would be...most parts are on it but the tin worn has had its day with the flimsier parts, skirts bins and things...

I thought it depends upon your age and of your driving licence...older drivers could drive upto 7500...younger drivers no more than 3.5t

took my son all of ten minutes after following the above instructions, is that good or what thanks you guys...in those immortal words...I love you all...its been working hard today running beautifully

i want to know what is in the box ?:nut:

Ferrets are cracking little things, really do wish i had the money to buy one right now...on my wish list and maybe I will have one next year...all depends on business and or the lack of it etc...

you are my hero...thanks wioll do that tomorrow...need to get a manual

everything is okay and it has a fullish tank, a good mechanical pump and I think all the seals are still good but i will just check them once more...

Will release the injector at the end and see if i can force the air out...its so bloody difficult to get to thats the big issue...willhave to lift the cab i guess...another pain, mind you its about time I learnt how to do it...

Hi Guys, does anyone know how to do it on a mog diesel 6 cylinder N/a had to have the tank welded, refitted it and she started up fine, ran for about 5 minutes then stopped, no fuel getting to engine....the inline fuel filter is half full and clearly air is in the system so how do I bleed it, I cant see any logical bleed points on the injector distributor...I have bled it to the fuel filters and filled the filters with fuel too but still no luck...anyone got any experience of the diesel engines...

Not on these Roger - they are air over hydraulic so if the air fails you can still stop the beast - but the pedal effort is rather a lot!!!

 

 

 

The advice and the offer is much appreciated. But right now I'm so cheesed I just want a "Fixed" solution. rather than taking everything apart and rebuilding it in the hope I find the issue. Apart from anything else money isn't infinite right now as I'm out of work and don't get a penny in benefits. Stripping down each wheel station you estimated at £80/station - thats nigh on £500 just for the calipers. Let alone the hoses and master cylinders and oil.

Whats interesting me is it's the SAME brake circuit every time - thus the same 3 wheels. If it were just duff seals I would expect the odds against them being all on one circuit stacked against! If you recall - when we bled the clutch at the Fort a lot of crap came out of the lines - I'm wondering if the same is in the brake circuits and is screwing up one of the master cylinders? It was when RR played with the M/C the second time that things started working - and we did a fair bit of bumping about over the weekend and on Monday, enough maybe to disturb loose muck lieing in the lines? This has been bugging me ever since yesterday morning and I'm fairly sure that is where the issue is. But I would like an expert opinion before any form of work is started as, like I said, money is most definitely finite until I can find another job. The REME guys at the Fort go white every time the words "Stalwart" and "Problem are mentioned - although Big Jim did say he wopuld have a look at it after the Grays Legion event thats on today - however it won't be going there so.......

 

As regards the http://www.hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=12247 thread - read it carefully, at no time did I ever say I was going to be the one weilding the spanners.. All I asked was if there was a need for such a service which was negatived.

Neil

Do the brakes release over time, and over what amount of time.

When the air is gone do they release.

If it releases over time but not with the air gone then you have a hydraulic fault, and it is likely at the master cylinder end as it affects all brakes in that system...the effect of say a seal having become dislodged and maybe blocking the return/release part of the master cylinder. or an expanded seal due to incorrect fluid...cant imagine its that thought.....

If the brakes release as soon as the air is gone then look to an air fault...yours is a MK2 so it should be relatively easy to find (in stalwart terms anyway)

I will look at my manuals today and offer more info...if anyone is on the right track richards note must be worth studying...but it is highly unlikely to be a brake cailliper problem if all three brakes stay on..could be dirt I suppose...you need to treat your stolly as i do mine, give her a good shakle out every time you reun her, I do my stoppies regularly just to make sure the brakes get a good slamming, and never stick...only ever had oneseal go...and that is on the only cailper that i had to strip due to seizing in the early days of ownership.

the new reengined bulldog does 44mph, stops like a tank should do and certainyl should not be floating in water....it has steel armour which does not burn, but it will still cook up if hit...and it is a sweet ride....

Perhaps if the M113 was any good it would not have been replaced so readily ( not a great argument I know) and although the Bulldog is determined as a bit boring it is a great low profile box for carrying infantry men to a place of war and with the new engine and steering box, faster more reliable and bloody great off road...

I e-mailed RR today setting out my thoughts on this issue and will await a reply. Thing is now - I'm not sure I won't get more grief after than before! Not to mention a bill for recovering it back to the works.

 

Anyways I also rang Baz from RM services here on the Forum and had a word with him - they are branching out into Stalwarts (The men with white coats will be calling soon, I'm sure...) He's going to talk to some one tomorrow who worked on them for many years and is going to get back to me next week - I'm away next week taking the wife on a break to the New Forest to make up for a certain recent 7.62mm acquisition. If this gives me a "fixed once and for all solution" then - in my book - it will be worth it. And if RM are as good as they sound then I know a few other owners who will be making tracks to their workshop doors!!

Baz is learning on my stolly Neil......I have a clutch a wheel station and a few other bits and pieces to sort...

But if your brake system is staying on then you must have pressure getting to the hydraulics from the air system, the system is split in two and the wheel stations braking as you mention is totally as I would expect....but locking on is odd...do they eventually free themselves when there is no air pressure...if yes then it is an air fault, if no then it is a hydraulic fault...obvious i guess

I will take a look at the diagrams again but it sounds like it is either getting air in somewhere and or there is too much air on the fluid, or you have the wrong brake fluid in or similar reasons... ...you can bet it is not a simple fix but i will pour over the manuals this weekend for you...

I can only say dont blame the garage, these faults can be very elusive...all service people have their bad points but your fault is very quirky...heres what I would do...

Check the lines from the brake master cylinders for damage, particularly for pinching or similar...

Check that the brake master cylinder is okay, remove and strip...

Inspect the air lines to the brakes to ensure again no pinching or similar,,,check the pressure relief valves are all free...and also make sure the air pressure is not going too high...are you losing air..and at what rate...mine has started to lose air after only a few hours when in the past it would hold it for a day at least..

Its not a massively complex air system just a lot of difficult to locate lines...

GOT TO DO MINE, WHAT GLUE DID YOU USE AND HOW DID YOU GET THEM OFF,,,sorry for the shouting...caps lock

depends upon how you play with them,...my experience is that you need to use them and keep them well oiled and serviced and they will last for a good while...but things will break...thats for sure...

they have a lot of gear, it may not be the best, it may not be the most technically advanced but it works and it is well sorted generally...I would not knock them, but can imagine the ideollogy coming up with a cam pattern that is the same for all the vehicles in the parade...

I will always go with the stolly unles she is broke and I will have the zils back working in time for the next event...plus I am hoping on a couple of other big vehicles by then...we will have to see...depends on cash flow..

its so typical of the british vehicles they are just not user friendly...the russian zils back in the 50's had power steering....its the problem our army has today, shoddy equipment made cheaply to maximise profits for the manufacturer rather than give our soldiers good useable equipment...I know that part of the problem is the small numbers of vehicles the army buys but power steering, its not a big ask is it...

Came to spectate as the 101's clutch went on the saturday night. Was a good day though.

clutch went on the zil too...had to haul it out with the stalwart...

Yes it was great, that was me and my boys in the stolly and the zil...my stolly was having a really bad day, kept losing losing power every now and again for no apparent reason, think it must be fuel related as I let her nearly run out the other day and i think i must have picked up some ****e in the fuel lines and in the filter maybe...anyway other than that we had a great day...

I am in the process of buying a quarry and hope to have a few heavies there in the future...

bloody marvellous help on here, there are some cracking people with knowledge that must be shared so it never gets forgotten...and so we can keep our vehicles going for more years than was ever intended....

that roof is a good idea...gonna make one for mine...fed up of dragging the sheet over her...

the MJ is not the most comfortable of trucks, a lot of people have tried the Mog route and they do work well, I have seen a lot of people converting urals and zils as expedition vehicles and with 6 wheel drive and mega winches they are very of road capable as well as very very comfy for such a big truck....can still get stuck though so do watch out, they dont have diff locks and this can mean being bogged down if you really go into boggy areas...the CTIS however helps immensley with getting you out of sticky situations (central tyre inflation system) anyway definitely worth a look...

7.5 tons line pull, ie say a 7.5 tons winch, if used with three pulley blocks could potentially pull 30 tons.......safely, as long as the two pulley blocks are attached to the tank...

I think in reality the pulley block will not have been that badly affected unless it has been really badly treated. (would show signs of misuse) I would as always proceed with much caution when using a pulley block of unknown history....make sure you are nowhere within line distance if it were to give way...and in my humble opinion under no circumstances use it for lifting, just use it for winching...

Think this is getting more confused..

In answer to your question, a 15 ton snatch block is the maximum load the snatch can take. fORGET ABOUT LOOPS AND THINGS..THAT IS ALL ABOUT LINE LOADING NOT SNATCH BLOCK LOADS.

iF YOU NEED TO MOVE 30 TONS OF TANK YOU WILL NEED A 30 TON SNATCH BLOCK OR TWO 15 TON SNATCH BLOCKS...

These are the three Basic newtons laws , the tank will stay put until you apply a force, that force is f = ma..(forget the coefficient of friction).

For every reaction there is an opposit and equal reaction. If you pull a tank of 15 tons then snatch block is taking 15 tons...however if you pull a 30 ton tank with a snatch block of 15 tons the snatch block will likely fail...there is massive fail safe in the design but you would be outside of its design spec, irrespective of the number of lines...

But as has been said if you use multiple snatch blocks you can offsett some of this...

hmm not sure this is correct...it is partially dependant upon the position of the snatch block and what you are doing. But the snatch block can only take a load of 15 tons...if you connect for instance the block to a 15 ton vehicle and use a 7.5 ton winch looped around the snatch then that is fine....however if you use it to pull a 30 ton tank it will fail...irrespective of how many loops you have the snatch block is carrying the full weight...of both cables, or the full load...