paulob1

 

 

 

 

 

 

3/4" finish tanalised Birch ply 8x4 std. bolt up modules using Canadian decking joists - very solid , outer horizontal rails similar joists - to these are nailed the vertical T&G tanalised.

 

1/2" finish tanalised roof gives immediate standing to do the fake slate roof.

 

Plenty of gable overhang so sides don't get rain-water , all roof timbers tanalised , then quality tanalised fascia boards , undercloak & barge boards when I get round to it.

 

Designed so additional windows can be jig-sawed out as / when required as build progresses & more natural light needed.

 

Front has much extended roof (as rear even but more) , to soften the high eaves & for 4ft decking covered veranda

 

Floor area (internal) 30 square M exact more or less.

 

Brick / block is cheaper , abt. £1,000 material costs for roof , walls - IIRC abt. the same , add another £1,000 for T&G cleading.

You used my plans. I think the regs have changed re the height at the edge of property and the overall height..., if you have a flat roof you can work it a bit higher but double check as its been a couple of years since i did these types of buildings in back gardens.

Farm building manufacturers are dirt cheap for a lot of area...

I use the slate and tingle system a lot, monotonous but very resilient in high winds...flat roof with fibre glass great too..I use that on flat roofs all the time, instead of felt etc..but totally agree with a high roof you need to break up the look and having a bit of a pitched over hang and covered walkway can always add to the look of a place and you can always fill it in with clear plastic panels to have a dry storage area...

Biuild it yourself.

I assume you have space for a two car garage, i think its 30 sq m maximum but you will have to check that with the council...

Start with a concrete base with two car pits...make sure they are the entire length of the garage and they are wired via tubes ready for connection to the mains power ring. ie run the electric cables underground in a sealed pipe, bring it out somewhere inside the footings near to a wall...

6 inch reinforced concrete will take a tank, you could use 4 inch reinforced but i would always use 6 inch...make sure you fit DPM under the concrete and under the car pits.

Build a stub wall 4 foot high with thermal blocks on the inside...then build a timber framed structure for the garage. Make the roof exactly 4m at the eaves closest to the road way depending upon where you want the fall of the flat roof you will only need a couple of inches height difference.

the walls will need to be made of 6 inch timber although you could do 4 x 2 if price is an issue. on the outside stick 1/4 ply cover with waterproof paper and then use ship lap timber to cover...on the inside sue 3/4 inch ply to give you good strong walls to easily fix tools and other items...the walls will need to carry heavy timbers for the roof, I recommend a timber beam of 6 x2 three off around the top edge of the structure, the wall plate as its called...to carry the roof beams...

and to use the odd doubled up upright to ensure good strength in the whole structure, screw everything no nails...

fix as many windows as possible to make it appear more enticing and if you can i would fit a small pitched roof on the house side that brings the roof line down to make it look a bit more palatable. On the road side bring the roof edging down with a large barge board to again make the walls look proportional.

us 9 inch roof beams with 600 mm spacing, 800 if your really mean, fill with Celotex insulation. Affix to the roof beams metal supports that will hold a lifting eye.., these need to be located all over the roof area to allow you to fix lifting gear from time to time...they will never be in the right place but hopefully you can fix to two or three and spread any load but also position it directly to where you want to lift an item...for the lifting eyes ideally you want a metal spreader on top of the main beams of at least 4 mm steel fixed over at least two joists, and one or two noggins...

you can leave the roof joists open like this or fill in with timber/plywood or plasterbaord.

Fibre glass the roof for long life and fit two or four skylights as you like to provide natural light from above, you can buy off the shelf skylights, nice and cheap but make sure you build your own upstand to fit the skylight, as specially made Skylights cost the earth...don't bother with opening skylights.

wire for at least a double plug at just above workbench height ever 2 feet.

install loads of lights in the pits and on the walls and ceilings but also around your workbench.

install a multifuel burner, this is great for getting rid of bits that are not damaging to the environment but fill up the bin...and will add a lot of heat, but ideally get a back boiler type so you can heat the whole garage...not too expensive and burning a few oily rags and logs and a bit of coal woill help keep you cosy warm.

have a sink with hot and cold water...if you cannot get it to drain into the main sewer, dig a soak away, (not totally legal these days) but workable as long as you dont throw foul or dangerous items down the drain like paint or oil etc...and just put soapy water...

Install solar panels on the roof to charge batteries and make you a few bob too...

have a back door and a garage door, roller shutter doors are great, and not too expensive and are good for security...

this is a timber building it will burn faster than you can shake a stick at it if you start a fire, so make sure you have four fire extinguishers and a water supply with a hose connected permanently for use as a fire extinguisher...

install a fire alarm and smoke detector, but fumes form the trucks oil or petrol tanks can set them off so you need the thermal type detector rather than a smoke detector...some of the newer ionisation units are really clever at differentiating and can be set re sensitivity...but for peace of mind have it wired to a sounder in the house...

the rest is personal taste I suppose, window location, noise suppression, tv aerials other amenities, toilet etc...

just a few ideas...

sounds like take your pick...he who argues longest wins...

I went to the Ciney militaria show this weekend, I know the cold war is my thing but i just could not resist this schnell boat, scratch built. about four foot 6 inches long radio controlled with rotating rear gun...

superb model with box....

thats the one I have two off, yes Dave Crouch sold me a modified one, it definitely is not as strong as the other ones I HAVE. I am going to bolster the thing a bit more with deeper side beam strips, a 6 inch strip welded to the outside of the rack should add maximum strength with minimum weight, plus a few extra side bars...

have a look here if you can...

https://www.facebook.com/TheColdWarCollection?ref=bookmarks

posted a couple of videos showing her running and pumping...

Points ?? Thought you said it was electronic ignition.

yep electronic ignition triggered by the points...

points.... took me few seconds to find the fault...had worn down over time and not working, need a new set but all running sweet now, been testing her as we are surrounded by fires at the moment. DOnt my place going up I have 200 acres of very dry heath and forest...

so we have three pumps two portable godiva's 350 gallons per minute and the GG...we are building a water trailer out of a zil131 chassis and two tanks, fitted to the back of a zil 131 with the pump and another two 1000 litre ibcs, so a total of well over 5000 litres of water... plus the pond..

Ive heard mixed reveiws re electronic ignition. Last year a fella in Normandy had the same happen,I think there has been a couple of people on here thats had problems.

Fitted one to our Dodge but still keep the base plate,points and condensor handy with the tools.

yes they are getting old in the GG's the light comes on but no spark...loads of these really cheap senders in the dizzy, they break the moment you look at them or cross a wire...but not many options these days...

ooh yes one of those with a proper trailer...what a beast...

in reply to datadawg, the majority of plant and vehicles moved on the roads today are done so by lowloaders, its the safest way full stop, if your worried about reversing a trailer then fit a jaw to the front of your vehicle, it is then made a lot simpler, if you have to buy and store a trailer it makes it more inconvenient for you but a hell of a lot safer, you should also note from reading this thread, and please do so from the start or you will incur the wrath of paulnob1 that his views are in a distinct minority, finally a plant trailer or lowboy as you call them over there have a multitude of other uses so you might get more out of it than you think.

I have to agree with you re the low loader it is by far the better load carrier for our types of loads. Trouble is they have loads of expense associated with them and add yet another complexity to the issue of MVT ownership...and unless you are a haulier they are difficult to justify...20-30k for a low loader for my chieftain just isn't worth it...

I am just pondering the question, do I go for a full 70 ton jobby for the chieftain or stick with a tri-axle 48 tonner on air, or even smaller, something that would carry everything I will ever need to carry except the chieftain...

how do you stop it from slipping sideways Neil....

Paul, you say identical, the two types of racks i have are not identical physically....do you mean identical in load carrying capability...as I have always been led to believe that there were two load types and even withams and Levelsely's describe them as 10 ton and 15 ton...?

yes ordered the repair kit should be great...not getting a spark now think the electronic ignition is broken

thanks Guys will try them all...

Hi Guys anyone know where i can get a carb repair kit for a green goddess...she is leaking badly. not running for some unknown reason and suspect the electronic ignition...will check her tomorrow. since we have the heath fire yesterday we have been preparing her for fire duties after her winter of rest...

One thing in life that counts massively is experience and time spent over many years doing a particular thing , Don't think credit Is being given to the guys with specific drops knowledge on this subject , no questioning really as they know and seen what they are talking about after many years using the drops . Whether people are already carrying 432s with no problems to date isn't a argument to say it no problem to do so , good sensible driving may getting by and may be ok and we worrying about nothing but maybe if a emergency situation arises with another vehicle then a border line load like a 432 may show the trucks unsuitability and weakness to carry it . For me a 432 on a Daf drops don't look comfortable sat up there and if it don't look right then usually it ain't right , I personally and again only my opinion would not be at ease with one on my drops on the road especially relying on stupid car drivers not to ruin my journey . You do have to to give the army some credit and if they didn't do it then maybe there really was a reason not too . But most important is that for anyone using a drops like this please be careful and remember that no matter how safe and good a driver you think you are being other road users can change that in a split second and with a truck that's border line and close to its capabilities then it's more likely to be a bad ending .

martin

Well said Martin, The army had every intention of using the things in anger I can imagine why they would see the 432 as trouble, a fully kitted 432 is likely to be well over 15 tons, the rack is only designed for 15 tons so its outside the limits already.... Today we have to follow load limits and the 432 is very close to the limit load wise...carry it with knowledge not an assumption, ie have the load weighbridged. I have said this over and over again. if your over the limit your off the road...

Al, i explained about the force that tips a lorry over a long time ago in my comments, as with all people who think they know it all they fail to read the full story...well, that's because they know it all...that is the real route to disaster...

You should know better than most cosrec as you must have seen loads of roll overs...how many have been DROP's carrying a 432.

But you still do not read all of the posts which makes me wonder..can you do the maths to prove centrifugal force does not exist...or is it just more text book responses..

I will guarantee that this thread will have taught a lot of people that 432 DROP combination is close to the limit and needs checking...some will take heed some will not...but those who have read it will not be able to forget it anymore and just may drive that bit safer...

QED...I rest my case...

oh no, this will never end...

The Fox won itself a reputation for rollovers, some say unfairly some say not....on the back of a DROPS its combined centre of gravity will be even higher...however I go back to the basics...

drive a drops at speed around a bend unloaded and it will topple, drive a ford racing puma at speed around a bend and it will roll....if you drive like a loon both can become dangerous...

driven carefully any load can be accommodate. Those anti-DROPs are generally non users of them. There appear to be some historical data that related to the Army and how they used them. There are a hell of a lot of DROPs out there and a hell of a lot of them carrying 432's and other such machines.

You do not need a DROPs to effect a roll over just drive anything like a loon...however driven carefully you are highly unlikely to encounter a roll over event...nothing is impossible but facts say that they are safe...

however to clarify beyond all the emotion.

GVW (authorised on UK roads) is 30,000 kgs

a DROPS with the rack is 15,250kgs to be confirmed.

a FV432 is at least 13,700 kgs. and may be over 15,000kgs

this is very close to a fully loaded vehicle and could actually be over in the UK....that's big trouble in the UK.

I will take my drops this month to the weigh bridge and then take a 432 on my Foden to do the same, it will be an interesting exercise...

and on we go

now teaching the world the rights and wrongs of individuality. We all have views, we all have opinions, which is right and which is wrong is an interesting debate..because the first thing we have to do is debate what is right and what is wrong...

I will try it like this.

DROPs plus 432 dangerous, some people say, they say it is because the army felt the truck was too unstable for their needs. SO good advice don't drive like the army planned to drive them... good advice. thanks for that...

DROPs plus 432 in civilian hands that have rolled over NON REPORTED as there has been no major backlash as warned due to this...I suspect this to be the truth.

who is right and who is wrong.

so the good advice from Paul and others has been well heeded and safety ensues...

lessons learned and life goes on...

Peoples opinions and knowledge are helpful and add to ones individual knowledge. It makes us all that bit safer in all we do. It does not mean we don't listen it means we take in the advice and act according to our new knowledge and drive maybe a bit more carefully...or strap it on a bit more securely or double check the limits to make sure we are within them.

It shouldn't mean we have to take assaults upon our integrity as the likes of some feel they have to do...and especially from people who shoot the messenger without actually reading the message....but I believe in a free speech world so keep them coming is all I say. Just don't expect me to be quiet. I will always defend my place..

Driving is a risky business no matter what you do....I am not sure if you are aware that there were just 1700 deaths in 2013, the lowest number of deaths on the road since 2026 when records were collated...we must all be doing something right...keep up the good work...still 138,000 accidents were reported to the Police. thats 378 accidents a day. there are 22 million cars on the road, that relates to a 0.0000017% chance of any of us having an accident. when you add this to 303 billion miles per year by all the vehicles it is a tiny proportion....

BUT the more we learn the less likely we are to have accidents...so to everyone who has given up on the debate, understand that your words are your words, what an individual does is his right to do, don't be offended if not everyone agrees with you because that is the way of the world, don't be put off because you think no one listens some do some don't, if by saying something you raise awareness and reduce the risk that is a great thing that has been done...be proud of it....

I for instance am amazed that anyone can actually think this country was better off under labour. the pain we have now is all because they very nearly bankrupted us...the Cons are doing their very best to save us from a fate like Greece where Germany is dictating the show for them...I am sure we would love to be in that boat, if labour get back in they will do exactly the same as they have been doing for years...ruining the country...why on earth cant people see this...the truck WILL fall over if they vote labour...hmm I wonder why they don't see this. I wonder....

Perhaps truth isn't quite what it seems...

I hope I have made myself clear...

okay see ya...

I am still doing the here we go moment...

as I said all vehicles given the right incentive will topple over, simple as, speed is and always will be the most significant factor on a normal road...loading and type of vehicle will always be a factor but a stable truck when stationary can only be made unstable if a force acts upon it...movement is the major force. Combine that movement with an additional force, ie a change in directions, and you get newtons first law a body will continue in a straight line until a force is applied to it...if the only force is the friction of the wheels turning said vehicle the top will continue straight, hence the topple..its pretty basic physics...slow down...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=EG4VtbRpfyo

the second series is very interesting....

I should add that there is no such thing as centrifugal force, it is newtons first law of motion that causes the roll over...

her we go again...someone who reads part of the post not it all...peoples opinions and ideas are what they have. some people know more than others about things it doesn't mean they are the only choice and it does not mean they are right..it just means they know a bit more...

if you had read the thread I might be inclined to discuss it but since you haven't its really pointless me responding...

to a degree yes, it is frustrating that the world is always looking for a scapegoat...the chap in the tiger moth who crashed and killed the passenger is being done for manslaughter because he should have known he could not make the loop at the altitude he was....of course he was foolish I suppose, naive maybe but manslaughter, the next thing to murder...come on world wake up is this really what we want...

liability insurance is included if you ask for it at shows for some companies...I am sure Cherished Vehicles do something or was it Footman James. I dont use Footman James any more they have become too onerous and expensive...but am sure one of the companies I have used over the years covered the shows...

best to keep people away from your vehicles with a barrier I guess...

fingers crossed....having the answers doesn't mean I know it all, that's why this forum is so good, someone out there always knows a bit more and has more experience on a topic than one of us... and that builds on all of our experiences without us having to necessarily have the bad experience ourselves...we can learn from everyone.

the 432 issue keeps coming around with the DROP's but many many people use them for exactly that....roll over will always be a risk in any vehicle if you drive like a loon...these are our toys now, drive them like they are precious and I am sure all will be fine...

This forum has some of the most knowledgeable people on our hobby that i have ever known, please don't ever stop posting because of some know it all... as I said there is always someone who knows just that bit more...

You will never feel whether its about to fall over, when the centre of gravity steps outside the baseline it tips over. That's physics!

I have been lucky enough to have had experience of roll over awareness training (in a 44tonne truck with outriggers)

There is no warning and we were getting it to roll at speeds as low as 8mph

I told you it was a here we go again moment.

the centre of gravity is the static load, ie if you tip a vehicle over to a point where the center of gravity, pointing vertically down, points outside of the width of the base or outside of the wheels of the truck it will tip over, no forward or reverse motion needed, However if you take the same vehicle and drive it around a flat bend with no camber angle at a given speed the reaction to the centripetal force can induce a roll over...the roundabout on the a3.

Most people drive the roundabout at a speed that does not induce a roll over...some don't..anyone driving a vehicle around a bend will feel the forces involved. if those forces are great enough to topple the vehicle he is in trouble....the only safe thing to do is not to put yourself at the risk in the first place...ie don't drive so fast, such that the truck will roll over with the forces involved...the sharper the bend the more risk of rollover...

just like any truck car bike etc etc...so slow into the bend and drive out of it...don't enter an unknown bend with too much speed, brake well before the bend, etc

don't do anything drastic mid bend...etc etc...

if you do find your in a bad place turn out of the bend, not into it, remove the speed as gently as you can, if you have a trailer the trailer will go well before you in the tractor unit will...and this is more dangerous that a rigid truck...

if your load is high and the CofG consequently high you will need to drive that much slower...simple...