john fox

the Bradley (?) at the end puts a whole new take on leaving the scene of an accident before you exchanged details. Not a lot the other guy could do to chase after them ... looks like he was OK though

be quick as the property may already have sold and the listing removed, but here's a fun listing for an house with a nicely (?) converted air raid shelter thereby conserving some archaeology!

Chippenham, Wilts

http://www.michaelantony.co.uk/property-details/wiltshire/chippenham/deansway

The tax renewal on my WOT2 says it needs an MoT and it is the same size & Weight as an MW. However, there is something going on about making pre-1960 vehicles MoT exempt, but no news yet.

on BBC today

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-18146326

in reality what it means is pre 1960 vehicles which are too light for the existing 3,500kg GVW MOT exemption, so for example every 15cwt (or lighter) WW2 era Morris, Bedford, Guy, Austin etc truck, will be exempt from 18 Nov 2012

so this will be the last show season where you need an MOT

See below..

thanks Lee - I had no idea of that letter, or how long ago it came out

may be too late for you but I bought synthetic hemp rope to do my Morris as it is less susceptible to the elements but looks, feels and handles just the same

other suppliers doubtless exis,t but I got it from this one - very good service, next day delivery

http://www.ropesdirect.co.uk/synthetic-hemp-rope/cat_6.html

they also stock the thimbles

http://www.ropesdirect.co.uk/rope-thimble/cat_46.html

Also what is the spiral piece of metal for in the photo. It is on the left hand side at the bottom of the turret.

you slip the commander's pressel lead into it - basically all it does is hold the lead out of the way of driver and/or commander

Current Deac 2010 specifications can be found below..

useful to finally see the definitive rules re a smoke discharger but at the risk of reopening an old debate - yeah right, can really see that being done in practice, especially the bit about placing the mark near the serial number!

the military 15cwt rear body was a standard design mated to any manufacturer's 15cwt chassis. The wooden one referred to will be the same as that on any non Morris 15cwt EXCEPT it is 6 inches wider.

Sadly the website with the wooden plans no longer exists as it died when that ISP stopped providing free website content, the aussie who ran it (and who is I think a member on here) may still have them, otherwise as said ask Dawnpatrol

BUT

remember there is also a metal rear body. I have not seen plans for this but do not assume it must have a wooden body - the metal one is equally "correct", unless of course your own vehicle already has wood...

no written records exist anymore for wartime Morris production

as stated, a GS cannot be earlier than late 1944. The build date is (in theory) stamped into the chassis by the rear spring hanger, I have yet to find mine.

if you are lucky (like i was), there will be a post war data plate on the chassis, just rear of the LH fuel tank. This will quote a 6 digit post war vehicle registration no, eg xx YT xx. Using that, the RLC museum may be able to produce the cast records which should list only 3 things , the date and location it was cast and ... the wartime census number, Z5812059

you have eliminated the obvious?

after sitting that long it is possible that the pedal itself needs lubricating - have you dismantled and regreased it?

I was looking on ebay for a new master cylinder (just in case) but "Lockheed Master Cylinder" gets a phonebook and "Ferret Master Cylinder" gets nothing, I've been told they are fairly common, is there a part number or something else I should be looking for?

They are not uncommon, as far as I am concerned given the 10 day lifespan of an ebay auction, 2 concurrently listed does make them common, its not much effort to scan through 2 pages of results, thats how I found them in the first place! Sellers can list them against a very specfic vehicle yet they are a generic part so lots of cross over potential, hence searching on something generic is better. I have seen these sold as fitting an Albion truck, not many people gonna search for that so not much competition in an auction!

(Needless to say i have no connection with either sale - I bought my spare cylinders at Beaulieu automjumble - he sold car stuff and wanted shot, cheaply, of his "truck" sized stock.)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AP-LOCKHEED-LM15092-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-BRITISH-JEFFREY-DIAMOND-BEDFORD-/310394202642?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4844efaa12

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lockheed-1-5-master-cylinder-/370232472397?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item563393334d

If you are looking at paint I can highly recommend Mike Starmer's books. .

Thanks Lauren but I just need to confirm the paint code – any automotive paint shop can mix it up then and there are plenty near me, but none prepared to match from samples, and I don’t have any samples anyway as my Morris was done in NATO green by the last owner.

Now looking very tried so a perfect opportunity to refresh it with the “correct” shade. That said I have loads NATO green in stock so may just do a blow over with that

After April 1944 it was SCC15 Olive Drab which is now BS 381C 298. Prior to that it was Brown SCC2.

Hi all

just checking that for british vehicles BS 381C 298 is the correct code for the "green" top coat on 1944/45 softskins as well?

My Morris needs a tart up as it was originally (not by me) done in NATO Green and I now want to make it look more "correct" and need to order the correct code from my local paint shop

Alternatively does anyone have experiece with paints that use white spirit as the solvent and applying them over old paint that would have used proper (ie pre solvent rules) thinner - or to be blunt, anyone know if the Frank Burberry paints work on top of old paint

apologies to Ivor R as he already replied on the morris club page but, as he knows, other morris owners on there are not helpful unless you are a paid up member

so cyclinder head torque on morris C 8 ... 50 lbs/ft or higher (lower)??

given such accuracies were not documented in wartime so not stipulated in the manual

take a look at the pics in my album for the 353 and 352 set up in a Mk1/2

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/album.php?albumid=265&attachmentid=24382

don't know how to make the pics actually appear in this thread

if you do the 351 or 352 fit you will need 3 different boxes: DCCU (28v not 14v), IBHA and initiate box

the 352, being longer, does limit the commanders seat movement a bit more than the 353 but the angled mount makes it more conformtable for the commander's back than all the knobs on the 353

unlike the Larkspur set up there is no back rest pad for the commender with the clansman set up

I have a deac L37 mounted in my Ferret - the mounting is currently in peices as it is awaiting derusting - will post pictures later if still interested

it would be rare to get a deac less than £2,000 at the moment and very rare to find an L37 rather than the L7 infantry version

As for petrol fuel storage, I've always belived no more than 20 litres may be stored in a purpose built metal container, and 5 litre in a purpose built plastic container. Get Disiel no problems there.

the difficulty is in filling them up! Round my way the licences regs for each garagae restrict them to only allowing customers to fill 10l metal containers only

forecourt CCTV notwithstanding I am now rather good at hiding what I 'm doing from view when filling my cans!

good advice ferret manual does tell u earth ferret before refuelling do i do it no!, will i start if i remember yes:-D best way would be pull up to pump remove nozzle touch nozzle to metal part of ferret then unscrew fuel cap? or chain from say inspection access on hull dragging along ground just like some old cars had

On Ferret you drop one end of the tow chain to the ground

on some tanks they have an earth lead that you unwind and a spike that you are supposed to bang in the ground before filling up

intreresting that there was a fire on a Ferret - I thought modern petrol station pumps made it impossible to get a spark?

I certainly appreciated the Wooly Pully ad and bought from them as Xmas pressies, so do the let the advertisers know that their spend is not only helping Jack towards buying his next luxury yacht (and feed bill for his horses) :laugh: but also brings in sales for them too

like most ads you subliminally notice them but only register those that interest you personally, until this thread I had not even appreciated the subject was about hair!

further to the great debate about whether Ferret hull numbers run in sequence with the VRN, it would appear that they do indeed do so at least for vehicles within the same contract

I have just discovered that 00EC26 still exists and has recently been sold - the ex owner confirmed its hull number is 3717.

My favourite Ferret (00EC25) is 3716

Don't know who has bought it?

can't check 00DA57 at the moment to confirm those pictured are "correct" however that vehcile has these fitted as part of the mine countermeasures upgrades (eg the extra plates mounted around the drivers footwell) mounts were bolted to the engine bay floor to allow 2 standard extinguishers to be postioned so that in the event of a mine detonation then (notwithstanding the fixed fire extinguisher system) the blast would (in theory) rupture the extinguishers and therefore add extra goodness to the fire extinguishing arrangements

IMHO without doing the rest of the (more visible) mine countermeasures upgrades, then simply fitting these 2 brackets in the engine bay would be (historically) pointless

. Are there any mechanical parts that are tough to get or will bust the bank if your vehicle should need them? Like the hubs or drive assemblies at the end of the inner drive shafts. Sorry, don't know what they are called yet.

= tracta joints - the faces of these are where the wear occurs and once pitted you will get transmissions problems

these are hard to get but I don't know of anyone who has had to replace theirs yet given the relatively low mileage most people do - last time banister had them he did want to lot. As with most ferret parts the dealers who still stock them know the relative rarity and charge accordingly - the good days were 10 years ago when still was still being released by MOD, but its all out now so it now basic supply and demand driving prices

. Here's the "Story" on the vehicle in question:

Guy Bought it as a toy. Drove it for a while. Says it ran Great but one day it just died as he was driving around the yard. He put more fuel in thinking he ran out. It cranked over like crazy, but wouldn't start.

establish if this toy owner bothered to learn the correct fluids for the correct holes, put the wrong one in the fluid flywheel and that will quickly make a mess

that said your diagnostic sounds as good as anyother until you actually see the vehicle - expect seized brakes mind you if its been standing that long

Only if the vehicle is 25+ years old or below 7.5 Ton, over 7.5 Ton or newer now requires a tacho and driving hours apply even for private use.

 

If a vehicle is exempt from tacho its also exempt from driving hours, strange one really.:???

I am totally confused as to whether a Landrover 101 falls foul of this?

some of them had new plates fitted showing 3,600Kg (can't remeber the exact figure off hand) and obviously all have a tow bar so even those (like mine) with the original plates at approx 3,200 will be >3.5 when towing -

so is it a rolling 25 year age or is it the road tax age limit which applies ? If the latter nearly every 101 would need a tacho :wow:

what a great historical timepiece, very stiff upper lip, even the squaddies speak proper like !

the Ferrets are at about 7 minutes, 40 minutes and 47.30 minutes

Ihttp://british-army-units1945on.co.uk/default.aspx

wow that is some site - thanks for that

sadly it's also spoiled the fun! I felt really pleased with myself having visited 2 regimental museums (at great £) and found they shared sucessive postings, so my ferret must have been at that barracks for its life.

Instead that website tells you in nanoseconds - where's the sense of achievement in that :cry:

I can only speak from my own experience of Milweb.

 

I have bought & sold things in free ads, paying for a photo & webverts. I have had no problems whatsoever & very pleased with the service it provides. On a few occasions I have needed to contact the administration & found them to be most helpful.

I think the difference with milweb now is they appear to have tightened up as they know how many times people try to place ads and if they only place free ones then Milweb is no longer prepared to let them do so if they are frequent users - that appears to be their (un?)fairly simple definition of a trader.

I am not for one second suggesting antar or any others have been over-using (or "absuing") the free part of the milweb service, but I have some sympathy with Milwebs attitiude. In principle you set up a new busiiness and offer freebies to get it noticed, then once it has attained a regular customer base you withdraw the start up incentives - this is a basic buisiness model. Therefore why should they continue to let you advertise for free when they know people now regard it as "the" place to buy and sell and are prepared to pay for it ?

that said it is (was?) a very popular site and the band width costs must be mounting so why should they subsidise it for free users - after all even Jack's pockets turned out not to be bottomless for HMVF!

Anyone setting up a competitor site is only going to reach the same point and will have to charge - competition will then be not will they be free, but will they charge less ?