Doc MacKinnon

I finally remembered my password! :-o SGT MAJOR FATLAD is currently under 4 to 5 inches of snow, wearing his usual winter camo tarp. Petrol has been treated with the proper fuel treatment prior to storage. So, I am awaiting warmer weather to allow me to resume work. At least I know the engine will crank happily. :-D There was another Humber Pig on eBay USA recently, located in Branson, Missouri- about 3 1/2 hours drive from me. I was hoping to get a chance to get with the seller to drive it. We exchanged emails, and he is glad to assist. Hopefully his buyer won't be picking it up for another week or so. :whistle: His Pig had the FELIX logos on it, he bought it from Western Resources last August. Rich MacKinnon 12BK61

It can off the frame plate without a problem...only one nut holding it on. I cleaned it up today, and found the inside very clean..with a bit crud on the bottom that was easily removed with a screwdriver. The snap-ring holding the cup plate in was removed with no difficulty, after I cleaned off the old rust and junk with a burr bit on a Dremel moto-tool. Couldn't get the cup out, but the spring and the cup work very well, and appar to have a good pumping action. I may not need a rebuild kit after all. My game plan is to rehang the M/C tomorrow, fill it with some fresh silicon brake fluid, and of course, clean off the rod and pedal linkage. And re-install the boot., using a ring-clamp to hold it on. Seems this beastie needs more TLC....no wonder the brakes didn't work... But we shall see what happens... And I found the missing "end" to my petrol line. I'm going to solder it to a section of soft copper tubing- then when I re-attach the banjo-bolt to the tank, I can bend the tubing without fear of breaking it. R/M

What have you done, you wonderful wealth of knowledge? Fantastic pics! Shows where some of the older foam fell off and was replaced with the sections of black foam. I have to scrape all mine off and start fresh. Luckily there are new adhesives that can hold a battleship to a pier. As for the hand straps, I don't have those. I really appreciate the colour scheme, so I know what items to paint red when I get to that point. Now, my water tank holding straps are all silver colour, and I don't have the concentrate tank. I may call and see what else may still be around the previous owner's garage, but as his wife sued him for divorce and that property was in the settlement, I think we picked up all that appeared to be Pig related. Everything else was for the Chieftain tank he had in his garage...with the jammed right drive system. Your help prior to my acquiring "His Porcine Lardship" was put to great use...he had know idea I knew more about it than he did...and he had it for about 5 years. I've been in contact with Roy Elvis at Champ Spares regarding the master cylinder rebuild kit. I haven't even pulled the old one off yet...it's one thing I plan to do this week. Hopefully it can be rebuilt- I'm not thrilled at looking at 235 GBP for a complete one. And then...removing each wheel for the brake shoes....at least I have a 20 ton hydraulic jack...I may well leave this to a professional shop. I found a truck repair place not far from me that has a couple of ex-miltary nmechanics who aren't afraid of split-rim wheels and tracta-joints. And would probably be very reasonable in getting some advertising! I'll have to take some pics of the areas that I mean. Thanks again Clive! Now..if I can only track down a visor block assembly for the side or rear upper hatch...and a glass block unit for one of the forward visors...[/code]

A 14,000 pound Pig with EARPS & SQUIRTS....not something to be around! One of my NIVA mates gave me his viewppoint of this question: "I wouldn't know.... we never used the "Squirt system"........but I did fire loads of "baton rounds".......and I was pretty good at it too............we discovered that if we bounced the rounds just in frount of the "mob" it was very affective......but then when the "petrol bombs" started to be thrown,..... thats when it started to get kinda weird....we knew we had to always watch out for the "snipers" but never once did we ever think we had to carry fire extinguishers.......we had to steal them from the vehicles, but after a while we ran out of them.....(they were only small hand held green ones, only good for one go).......we then had to use feet and hands.......very scary..........believe it or not, later on there was talk of warming the water so that the "mob" wouldn't get too cold if the "Squirt" was used........... (this is very true)......but I dont know if it was ever done........ sorry I couldn't be more help............ take care Frankie" Of course, with both at my disposal...I'd be firing all four barrels....3 for solids and 1 for liquid.... And using anything I could get my hands on... Now- speaking of those lovely green fire extinguishers...I still have one that is intact, and never used. Any idea where I can find a couple more for the racks inside? I'm already planning to mount a modern one. Also, some of the mounting points inside have me wondering what went there? Inside the left front door, and along the rear of the seat is a mounting bracket for a shovel or something with a triangular end, and a wire securing device at the top. As well as other items of the CES for MkII Pigs. Verbal descriptions are nice, pics are even better. Any help can be left on the forum, or emailed to me. Doc MacKinnon

Some of my REME mates recommended a phosphoric acid solution. So I tried like hell to find one...I found a fuel tank cleaner at a marine supply house, but when I went to buy it, they didn't have it on the shelf...even denied it's existence. I was left to browsing the hardware stores...and suddenly I found a tub,tile & shower cleaner that was...Phosphoric Acid. So, I bought it, poured the entire gallon into the right petrol tank...added 4 ounces of Naval Jelly to "kick it up a notch"....swished it around...and drained it. The stinky, nasty crud was gone! And my basement drain is running smooth as silk... Now to reinstall the tank. And repair the broken fuel line. I broke the last half-inch off, about a half-inch from the banjo bolt. ARRGH!!!! Where's a REME Workshop when you need one..... :?

Been a while since I've heard anything from the Pig Sty. So, allow me to explain why I'm chuffed. While enjoying a day off, as well as decent weather, I decided to remove my left front seat frame and the battery boxes so I can clean all the nasty powdery crud and filth that is in them. And figure out what to do with that funny pipe that has a large valve fitting which attaches it to the hose that went to the Godiva. When I bought the Sgt Major, the previous owner (nice chap- but wobbly in the head...) said he was going to cut the pipe out and use the Pig as a hunting truck. Yep...quite wobbly in the head.... When I got the battery boxes out I looked at this "pipe"...and was wondering why it looked so familiar....it looks just like an EARP barrel. Then it hit me like an Ulster Round! (Yep- I know what that is...I have one...as well as the hard predecessor.) IT IS AN EARP BARREL! It has a flange welded to the side and to the muzzle that attches it to the right side of the seat frame. And it stops about 1/2 inch above the floor plate. I looked closer at the valve assembly. A few weeks ago, I broke a pipe wrench trying to disconnect the hose from the valve. Now I see a half-moon shaped device, that is spring loaded. After playing with it, I learned it was the locking device for this assembly into the EARP barrel. So...I released it, and gave the entire unit a firm twist counter-clockwise. And had to gently tap it upwards with a hammer.... IT IS THE SQUIRT "STINGER" NOZZLE! Dirty, some marks where some "expert" tried a pipe wrench midway up the shaft of the "Stinger", but the "o"-ring is intact and pliable.... I'll post pics shortly! As WarWheels.Net has a Squirt Pig in their gallery, but doesn't really show the actual nozzle assembly...just the muzzle seen in the far left EARP barrel. With the locking mechanism that secures this unit either in the "EARP Holster" or the EARP barrels when in the left visor position, I maintain the Squirt could very well have been used in conjuction with the EARP barrels...in delivering "hard" or "soft" deterrents to riot participants. (I'll check with my RUC/PSNI/UDR squaddies on their input from their memories) (Clive- I'll also put these on the FV-1600 Yahoo Group.) Now...to make the "Squirt" functioning...with emphasis on "Fun", I plan on buying a "trash pump"- a simple petrol-powered pump that is used for removing large amounts of water from basements, pools, ponds, etc. These run about $200.00 USD, have large-bore fittings, and should be fairly easy to adapt.

Might try looking at Airsoft...

From my earlier post: Well, my experiment worked...at least from what I can tell. I used a gallon of Zep Shower, Tub & Tile cleaner, as it contains phosphoric acid- as recommended by my REME contacts. I also added some Naval Jelly to give it a kick. First I tested the Right Tank Fuel strainer- the cleaner of the two. Turned out great- I can see clearly thru the fine brass mesh, and it looks pretty darn good. Then I did the Left strainer. This one is ugly! Had caked on black, slimy crud, with gobs of sediment in the base of the strainer, and huge areas of rust in the layers of the brass mesh. I used the solution, let it soak for 10 minutes, with careful and gentle application of a brass gun cleaning brush. It took 2 soakings to get the bottom clean to where you can see thru it- however, the brass mesh on this one appears to be in 2 layers- the outer layer has small spots where the mesh is ripped away. And it still has alor of rust deposits in it. But water now runs clear thru it. I'll probably have to fabricate a new one...unless someone can guide me to a replacement. Now to the Right petrol tank. I let this "witches brew" soak for about 4 hours, with shifting of the tank on it's side, then bottom, then other side. I drained it, and the inner base looks 100% better. Still some crud on the sides of the baffle plates... My next project is to re-hang the tank..after I repair the fuel line where the fitting to the banjo bolt broke off. I think I can braze/solder it on and then attach it to the banjo fitting when I reinstall the tank. However, the EMERS doesn't quite say how to hook the sending unit back up... Rich

Well, my experiment worked...at least from what I can tell. I used a gallon of Zep Shower, Tub & Tile cleaner, as it contains phos[phoroc acid- as recommended by my REME contacts. I also added some Naval Jelly to give it a kick. First I tested the Right Tank Fuel strainer- the cleaner of the two. Turned out great- I can see clearly thru the fine brass mesh, and it looks pretty darn good. Then I did the Left strainer. This one is ugly! Had caked on black, slimy crud, with gobs of sediment in the base of the strainer, and huge areas of rust in the layers of the brass mesh. I used the solution, let it soak for 10 minutes, with careful and gentle application of a brass gun cleaning brush. It took 2 soakings to get the bottom clean to where you can see thru it- however, the brass mesh on this one appears to be in 2 layers- the outer layer has small spots where the mesh is ripped away. And it still has alor of rust deposits in it. But water now runs clear thru it. I'll probably have to fabricate a new one...unless someone can guide me to a replacement. Now to the Right petrol tank. I let this "witches brew" soak for about 4 hours, with shifting of the tank on it's side, then bottom, then other side. I drained it, and the inner base looks 100% better. Still some crud on the sides of the baffle plates... My next project is to re-hang the tank..after I repair the fuel line where the fitting to the banjo bolt broke off. I think I can braze/solder it on and then attach it to the banjo fitting when I reinstall the tank. However, the EMERS doesn't quite say how to hook the sending unit back up... Rich

Okay...before Clive swears I've been sniffing the fumes of my funky fuel tanks....and believe me...They are FUNK-Y! I actually saw a pic of 2 MkII Pigs, in hot pink, with a large black K on the sides. They were owned by some company that was using them for adverts, and they were being driven thru a snowy field, with trees in the background. If I ever find the site, I'll post the URL. Doc

I was on eBay last March, and found a Ferret Mk1/1 that was close by. I bid on it, and kept trying to go take a look at it. But some poor soul beat me by $100.00 USD, and got it...much to his dismay it required major overhaul in the bevel boxes, fuel tank and transmission... However, the seller also had this poor, lonely Pig. I looked at it, ran the hull number thru Bovington...and when I found out it wasn't just a Pig with a "water cannon" ...but one of 20 (+/-) remaining out of 36 MkII Squirts, I bid on it..and got it. I have both water tanks, racks, 4 of the 5 steel straps, and the hose fittings and main hose & floor pipe. I do not have the Godiva pump, or the Concentrate tank, or the nozzle. But I also have the EARP barrels, and am refinishing them. I'm going to mount 26.5mm flare guns, to fire blank cartridges- using chamber sleeves and 12 gauge blanks. My goal is to restore it to a functioning vehicle- as it would have been in Northern Ireland. Not a pretty, "parade" vehicle- but one with purpose- Sanctuary in a Hostile World! I am also an associate Membet of the Northern Ireland Veterans' Association, and am collecting info on Pigs and on The Troubles, as most Americans still romanticize the IRA. This vehicle will present a rolling history of The Troubles and the sacrifices of the 957 HM services personnel killed from 1968-2000. According to NIVA, I am Certified NUTTERS!

Greetings from Florissant, Missouri, USA. I'm Rich MacKinnon, and for those who belong to the MVPA, I'm the owner of "Sgt Major Fatlad", Humper Pig MkII Squirt, that is featured in the Jan 2006 issue of ARMY MOTORS. I'm in the process of phase 2 of my work- I did some painting last summer, and will have to do some repainting later. My goal this spring and summer is to get him running. Luckily, after publishing the article- I've attracted all sorts of new friends- including a Ferret Owner in the St. Louis area, Terry Johns (lives close to me- he owns a Daimler Dingo, a T-16 aka"Bren Gun Carrier", and a Humber Armoured Car that was in Canadian service in WWII) And a wonderful bunch of nutters and new friends around the world! Glad to be on board! Rich Doc" MacKinnon

As a few of you may (or may not) know- my MkII Pig sat in a garage for about 5 years with approx 2 gallons of unleaded petrol in each tank- with this turning into a foul smelling "paint thinner" like substance. Nasty, stinky stuff! Both of the brass mesh fuel strainers were affected, and both tanks have alot of crud, slime and other stuff in them. However, cleaning each tank is a challenge for me as: 1- I'm limited by time 2- I'm the chief mechanic, grunt, painter, go-fer and everything else. 3- I'm totally new at this stuff. I'm a retired military medic- not a spanner monkey... 4- I'm cheap- the Missus won't let me have any money. (Last time she did- look at what I brought home....a Pig! :lol: ) According to my REME contacts, phosphoric acid was recommended for cleaning the tanks. So, I found a marine supply house that carried a fuel tank cleaner for boats, that had phosphoric acid in it, and was made for cleaning petrol or diesel fuel tanks. But when I went to get it, they no longer carried it. So, today I was at the hadrware store and happened upon a Shower, Tub & Tile Cleaner that consists of- Phosphoric Acid. And it was less expensive then the marine supply house stuff. I tried it on one of the brass strainers. Direct- from the gallon bottle into a plastic basin (yep- wearing rubber gloves!). Worked like a charm! The strainer no longer has the green slime and crud. (Now this was the least nasty of the two- the right tank strainer- as this tank had very little fuel in it. The strainer from the left tank is black with thick nasty slime.) I'll keep you posted on how this goes.

Well, I struck a blow for those who own British Steel! For those of you who belong to the MVPA, in the Jan 2006 ARMY MOTORS, my Humber Pig is featured on page 23. As well as a couple of pokes in the eye with the following sharp sticks: - "Maybe I am still too new, but Army Motors seems to focus on US vehicles and the rest of us with unique vehicles are orphaned." - "I realize the MVPA primarily serves US vehicles with the occasional 'pretty' Ferret. Sorry, but the Pig is nota pretty 'parade' vehicle..." Yep! Some may think I'm trying to stir up trouble! What I'm trying to do is stir up support and interest in NMIA (Not Made In America) vehicles. Oh- a special thanks to Clive Elliot for his pic of mine taking a squirt...it's featured as the banner on the top of the page. And any "DMV" expert who swears a Pig is an Armoured Combat Vehicle... needs to talk to those who drove & rode in them. Heat came from the transmission...and lots of it. The best way to experience a patrol ina Pig is- according to my mate "Trackie" of the Northern Ireland Veterans' Association is: Once you've locked yourself inside, do the following: 1- Have 20 of your mates pound on the outside with sledge hammers. 2- Have 50 of their friends throw firebombs, rocks, acid bottles, bricks, paint, flaming bags of excrement(human, dog, the nastiest- the better!), flour, dirt, at the vehicle 3- Have some friends with guns take pot shots at the vehicle. 4- Stay inside for about 4 to 6 hours during the above. Then once you get outside, singe the bottoms of your pants legs and set fire to your boot laces. Then you are an Official Veteran Pig Squaddie. 8) Rich

As the weather here is very strange- 70F one day, 40F the next...thday we had snow and freezing rain...this weekend it may well be in the high 40s to the low 50s... With this in mind, I decided to take apart the EARP barrel set-up. The nylon cover was a bit of a pain to remove as it is very fragile- but I was able to remove it with minimal problem and damage. So now I can see about making a new one. Of course the metal ring that keeps the cover attached to the face plate had to be removed- all screws came out nicely! Each barrel is in it's own gimbal mount, and on the lower aspect of the muzzle (actually about a 1/2 inch from the muzzle, a threaded stud is welded in place, and a steel bar then allows the barrels to be trained laterally as a unit. Ideally, where one points, the other three point. Luckily, I have a plastic egg holder that is perfect for keeping the screws, nuts and the like in place where they can't be lost. Very important for these small screws. The lexan window is held in place by about 8 slotted machine screws- I have 3 that won't budge! I'm going to try gently heating the back with a propane torch to try and loosen them. I'll let you know how this works. My goal is to obtain 4 surplus Czech 26.5mm flare guns, adapt them to fit the EARP breeches, and then use 12 gauge chamber sleeves so I can fire signal blanks from the EARPs. One of my friends suggested making the Squirt work, and hose the crowds at St. Pat's parades with green beer. As I have both water tanks, and hose fittings that idea did seem like fun... but I'm too cheap to buy even green beer for anyone...