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RMS

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Posts posted by RMS

  1. Thanks guys that is exactly what I got off a good friend. But alas that has not done the job :cry: . I drive 1100 yards or so and the coil gets incredibly hot and of course breaksdown. I have also now changed the condenser and checked the points gap and that all seems fine. Any suggestions?

     

    Check the ohms of the coil, it should be about 3 ohms for 12 volt standard coil or about 1.6 ohms for 6 volt standard coil.

  2. I Have found the new Fel-Pro USA ones are the best. always run a very very thin smear of sealant (a tip from Tony Sudds) around the outer edges of the gasket top and bottom, and as richard said check the head for warp.

     

    Barry

  3. Wow thats a great find, looks very complete with original parts, which is a good start with a GTB as finding the panels is a slow job, i know.

     

    the best thing to do is find out where it is jammed, it takes a few minutes to disconnect the drag link, then you can see if its the steering box jammed or the front hubs, i suspect its the steering box if it has been outside for many years as water will work its way into the column via the centre of the steering wheel, possibly the top bush in the steering column has rusted solid? The steering should be very light on the GTB even when stationary (compared to other trucks of the period) but it needs a lot of turning to go full lock to full lock!

     

    Keep us updated, i am about halfway through my GTB (chassis number 198483) if you come across any drivers seats i need one and a spare wheel mount.

     

    heres mine as i got her home.

     

    good luck

     

    Baz,

    DSCF0502.jpg

  4. Whip plug no.1 out and turn the engine over until its on the compression stoke for no.1 (stuff a bit of tissue in the plug hole and it will pop out when compression builds) turn the engine until the piston 1 is roughly at the top then check the rotor arm is pointing to no.1 lead on the dissy cap. then check the rest are in the correct firing order (probably 1-3-4-2, clockwise or anticlockwise??).

     

    if its pointing toward no.1 then loosen the dissy and get an amigo to turn in either direction by a few degrees whilst trying to start the engine, should find the correct spot, then timing can be refined with the engine running.

  5. Pistons again..................

     

    Apparently new big end shells aren't available, and the top shells are just going through the tinned surface. The top shell is different from the bottom in as much that the shells are located by a peg in the big end cap. As new shells aren't available; I had thought of drilling a new hole in the top bearing shell and inverting them, as the top shell always wears out first. I know it's a bit of a bodge, but it wont be doing millions of miles and should last ok. I doubt whether I could afford to have the shells reconditioned, so this may be the only option.

     

    DSC00238.jpg

     

    :)

     

     

     

     

    Ouch expensive! just had a 1930's four cylinder Auto Union engine big end bearings re-tinned and machined as they were knackered.....£1000!........... + VAT!!!!:nut:

     

     

    Barry

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