Gordon_M

Reading your very first message my initial thought is that you have lost the distributor timing, as Iain suggests.  By all means spin it and check an HT lead to block for spark, if there isn't any check your rotor arm is turning.

In which can the 'dilute' plate ma be Weasel too. 😀

The shift pattern on the last plate isn't something I've seen before though

The Caterpillar Grader type is "Auto Patrol" which is where that term crept in.  The MH trucks are definitely the star images.

19 minutes ago, B series said:

Hello Kevin,

I have some background information about these men, and photos, because a friend of mine was one of them, unfortunatly he passed away in April aged 98. I could post some vehicle photo's and further info, but not all the vehicles are military but maybe operated and directed by the RE, so not sure if wanted on this forum.  

I'd suggest you post it all here.  Period background information is always good, and if you don't post them they may be lost to history.  It would be good to get the full unit name and title in the post heading too, so it could be found by anyone searching years from now.  It is eighty years since that image was taken, and in another eighty ( scarey thought ) someone may have a specific use for it.

I'm sure I recognise the 2100RPM plate from a Diamond T, 4 ton 6 x 6

Looking back at it, would you have opened up those small holes in the tank before adding the patches to ensure the seam sealer could get to all the inside faces of the welds?

That Torra Pass one is a gem.  If I have it correct:

American Vehicle

English Equipment

Italian Pill. ( shot ?)

WO = War Office maybe?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-Tool-Boxs-from-a-WW2-RAF-Air-Ministry-Army-Generator-Trailer-Petter-PU8/233622367649?hash=item3664fa6da1:g:4IIAAOSwKsRej14r

Tool boxes from a similar generator trailer with a Petter engine, may be of some use

Got a full set of DUKW stencils in the garage from 14962, and a Parts List  and so on.  Don't think I have many mechanical bits though.  Good luck with it.

As long as it works Jim.  If you get the chance of a spare manifold, grab it and keep it one the shelf.

Balmoral is just a couple of miles from me here in Aberdeen, I look at a load of fibreglass stuff there.  Went to the tank / vessel place in England once but don't remember exactly where it was.

Anyway - want to bet that he'll find numerous other long bits he needs to strip, now that he has sold the tank?  😉

It would depend on how much conversion it had been subject to.

I saw one in Scotland once that had a plated hull, gutted interior, Perkins diesel, no deck or coaming.  Basically it was a chassis and marine drive plus three very tired axles.

All the bits that you would need to rebuild that are no longer available.  I'd suggest getting a very tired but intact example instead.

If you watch Deve Engels version of the video there were some lamps that looked like the Peerless ones, but I suppose there were dozens of manufacturers that look much the same.

Lamps again

Turns out Dave Engel's brother in law runs a carriage lamp business, including spinning his own components:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rY5kwTU5Z0A

The big disks and the cast lugs with the single holes look like what the Americans call "Dayton" wheel components, like the cast centre in the image below with six of the bolt-on lugs at the end of the spokes.  Yours may be trailer wheel centres or spacers for that sort of rim.

Lay one of the big disks down and put one of those lugs over each of the ten bolt holes to get a rough idea if they would fit.

42 minutes ago, johann morris said:

Quote

... I thought I made it up as I went along.   Jon

Winging it seems to have worked wonderfully so far, I'd have to say.  I'd guess if ( when ...) you have the whole thing complete apart from the tracks you'll think of something, or something will turn up, or you'll get a grant from the Arts Council.  Something along the lines of: "if you build it they will come". 😉

 

No problem Paul, but do confirm the correct rating before buying another, 4psi is just what I remember.  I have seen weeping radiators and core plugs that I think may have had something to do with caps that had too high a rating.  I used to run my trucks with that radiator caps fitted but a quarter turn back from locked down - basically unpressurised.

Drain down below that level, double-nut the studs, withdraw them, clean, blow out recess, refit with sealer using double-nut again.

It is also common to find these engines running with a higher pressure radiator cap than originally specified.  I think the original was 4psi.  Make sure the one you have fitted isn't too high, and "it has been there for forty years" isn't an excuse.  8-)

That's fine for a worn engine.  I've seen guidelines somewhere that specify when worn, 5psi when cold, and 'moves off the peg' when hot.

You fixed it

7 minutes ago, panelvan said:

forgot to say i already have the gasket set.

Ordinary goo would be fine, anything you have in the shop.  The only things to watch are in the rear sump to main bearing cap to block area.  Never re-fit the back main bearing cap without new "h" seals, for example

Don't worry chaps, there's another D8 T212 in Australia, with a replica body, and yet another was in Aberdeen, ex-Dundee district council, but I haven't seen it for ages.

Nothing comes immediately mind, but none of that is easy.

Trying to cast either as one piece should be possible, but you may want to consider casting it in sections and then welding the sections together.   I can see the header tank as a front face, back face, and centre section with two large joining welds, for example.  On the lower tank do a simple pattern and then weld on that tricky bracket.

Fire it up, wait till it starts acting up, then shoot some WD40 at the inlet manifold to head connection for 1 and 2.  

I'm thinking it might be moving when it heats up and starts drawing air.