Gordon_M

2 minutes ago, radiomike7 said:

Overall chains on a Militant??

Over both back axles, standard stuff

40 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

Buy a fire engine?  Nah, don't think so 😁

next up on this channel - surprise Militant Fire Engine. 😁

Managing well so far Paul, hope you are too.  Depending on how thickly covered it is you may want to leave it for days, with a little light poking / brushing so it can get right in there.

If you suddenly develop an overwhelming desire for fish and chips I'm taking no responsibility.  😁

5 hours ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

 BUT, as we all know water isn't known for it's lubricating properties, more so for corroding ferrous metals.  

Eventually this will wash out all the grease I've put in and we'll be back to where we started with a seized pump.  

 

Not so much eventually, more the end of day one.  That isn't designed for pumping water, the tanks probably aren't coated to resist it, and the whole mechanism that has lasted well under a layer of hydrocarbon will be wrecked.  If you want to pump water - get a fire engine.

Vinegar.  8-)

I'd caution against running water in it though.  Any sort of hydrocarbon should be good, whatever is cheapest - paraffin?

The unusual stamped T I think is a red herring Doug.  My take on it is that they didn't have a 'T' so they used a serif I and stamped it twice at 90 degrees.

6 minutes ago, rog8811 said:

That takes me back, 50 years ago, Guildford tech was the last time and place I used one.  But brings up a the thought of where to get access to a shadowgraph should you want to check out your thread.

7 minutes ago, rog8811 said:

where to get access to a shadowgraph should you want to check out your thread.

Any oilfield equipment place would have the casting dough and a shadowgraph to compare it.

I don't like to add unrelated links, but since the topic this week seems to be threading, I thought I'd introduce you to the world threading champion:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDfMI5ahbJI

... I didn't even know that was possible.

( Hit the box for subtitles if your Russian is a little rusty )

That was pretty much standard practice, but when time and resources allowed the hole would be reamed to the exact size of the replacement bolt, which was then forced into place to give a much stronger joint than an ordinary loose fit nut and bolt.

 It does look remarkably complete, considering.

39 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

I must be having a senior moment here, or something. 

It'll be fine, by sheer co-incidence we were all looking the other way at the time, weren't we chaps?

I'm assuming it separates the water first before it gets to the paper filter, otherwise very soggy and ineffective?

One of the earlier Canadian Chevrolets, C15 or C30 with Number 11 or 12 cab, can't quite tell.

Take the red one off the outlet manifold and blank that output with the bit you have to take off the valve box.  You won't have full functionality without that red valve back on there, but the number of manifold outputs isn't that critical.

Start looking for one more aluminium valve and one more brass one, with handle.  I'd guess on a wartime unit those valves were all brass, but when this tanker came out they went to all aluminium. Maybe when the outlet manifold ones started to break too often it was back to brass.

Colour me impressed.  I remember one of their other ideas was poisoned cigars ...  I'm only taking half a point for that, because the minute Cuba was mentioned it was almost obvious.  8-)

Sigh, it's not one of the CIA's crazy attempts to get Fidel while he was out diving, is it?

T112 is the standard contemporary civilian ( and militarised civilian ) 1941-47 4x2 half ton truck engine.  Pretty much the same as the T214 but it normally came with the three speed transmission, though it would take the four speed with some bellhousing tinkering.  Engine accessories will interchange.

That engine bay is set up for a 23.5" engine ( they came in two 'lengths' measured at the head to block joint, 23.5" and 25" ). The problem is the block was designed originally in the early 1930's for a smaller capacity engine, in both bore and stroke, and by opening up the bore as they did, you end up with two cylinder pairs that are very close together.  It is always the head gasket bits between these two close pairs that causes problems, since it is little more than 1/4" wide.  If the rest of it is fine, get one cylinder sleeved then the block decked.  

If you can find  a spare one you can fit a T214, T215, T211, or T207 engine, but if your Clarktor has only three forward speeds you'll have to tinker with bellhousing, clutch, and so on.  Sleeving a single bore much easier.  If it is sleeved you should be fine, but if you are worried just click the radiator cap back part of a turn and run it unpressurised.  The maximum radiator cap pressure on these engines was 4 psi.  If you replace the cap with a higher pressure cap - bad things happen.  Speak to Steve Rivers at Dallas Autos about bits, but be sure to mention T112.

Engine should be a standard 230 cu in T214 Dodge, almost every part is available.  Accessories mostly standard 6 volt Chrysler.  If the block isn't actually cracked or broken it should save.  Clark made the back axle setup, but I think the main transmission was standard Dodge too.

I have no idea what to put-on your hoses, but I'll bet that whatever they put on modern hoses won't be compatible. Your hoses will probably be artificial rubber, but a very early variety.

If all else fails, thorough wash and dry and just put them in the holder tubes.  May be worth getting the tubes and ends air tight.

"Stalinist"   

Could it be the case the they all came with the small cross markings, and only the ones going up the sharp end had the bigger versions added?

I know the WC54 Dodges started leaving the factory with the smaller marking, but later came off the line with the big version.

That has the very small Red Cross sign I'd associate with early war time.

3 minutes ago, super6 said:

Is this part of the lighting setup?

Acetylene generator.  Fill it with Calcium Carbide and drip water on it ( I think ...) and Acetylene is given off and will flow under modest pressure to lamps.

It's dangerous to speculate on this stuff, there are so many pitfalls.

Rick's plate has at least three engine numbers on it, the original, now hidden, then if I'm reading it right E136 then E181.  The plate belongs to an early engine, Austin as opposed to Austin Motors, but note that the plate is simply screwed to the block, so Austin or some other company could just have re-stamped and re-used the plate for some other rebuilt block, or the plate could be original to that block, who knows.

First bit of advice would be to unscrew the plate from the block and look behind it to see if it has only ever been on that one block, or if there are other holes / marks / paint that suggest the plate was from a different block.  Looking at the back of the plate may suggest what the first of the three (?) engine numbers was when it was stamped.

That's a good piece of work.  No second chances to get it right.