Gordon_M

Push rivets, they normally have a sort of dull self-tapping thread.

There is a procedure to get these out, use a BLUNT chisel and tap the head sideways firmly, they will normally displace far enough for you to pull them out.  Of course you have to do it carefully to avoid damage to the plate underneath.

Worth draining it anyway, the drain is a simple hex plug.

It does have a filter element in there Keith, thin stacked brass sheets, endlessly cleanable.   The problem is the gasket at the top the housing doesn't re-use well, and owners strip the bolt thread by over-tightening trying to get it to seal.  I generally suggest not to dismantle the housing unless you have a complete spare

You don’t change the filter, you drain it, or strip it and clean it. As a quick fix undo the drain plug and assess what comes out. If it isn’t clean put one of those little plastic lawnmower filters in line temporarily.  Do not dismantle the main filter unless you are confident you can get it back together and sealed - easy to break / strip. 

Insulate the fuel line, make sure you have the heat shield in place above the pump.  

I have idly wondered if reproducing the heat shield in stainless may not make it work a bit better than the original mild steel.

Metalock is a purely mechanical repair that can be done in situ.  I had a GMC 270 block fixed in the truck, but they do need reasonable access, of course.

https://www.metalockengineering.com/en/typical-repairs/metal-stitching/

Metallock or similar should do it.  The internal thickness is liable to vary - cracks tend to appear at change of section thickness, but it should fix.

The operative will need to clean the whole surface down and crack check it.  Those cracks are liable to be longer than you can see, and there could be more of them.  It is possible that there are internal cracks in the water jacket which would be more difficult but still now impossible.

It looks fine, I'm sure a coat of OD will get applied soon.  

Thicker oil may make for more reluctant cranking in the depths of winter though.  🤔

It will be fine, no problem, just get it up to the mark before driving it.  

I wouldn't discard the new oil you drained out either, I'd put it in clear containers and let any dirt or water settle out a couple of times then just use it for topping up.

3 minutes ago, andypugh said:

Possibly richer would run cooler? 

That's how they do it with rockets, deliberately adding too much fuel to reduce combustion efficiency.  You would get less MPG of course.

Oh my, you are using first gear?   First should be reserved for setting off uphill, with a full load, or towing a trailer. Think of it as a three-speed box with an additional granny gear.

Starting in second should be fine, the number of changes is greatly reduced and that will help make up for any extra effort. Additionally, only ever select first or reverse when completely stationary, unless you like working on gearboxes.

I'd think from the factory it would be 50 cold and 20 at hot idlI.  it would never have been that high at hot idle, and it wouldn't really have to be.

As I mentioned up thread that's fine for a worn engine.  As I understand it the oil pressure gauge just shows you the pressure at the main bearings, the big ends are too far 'down' the supply line to reflect on the gauge.  Drive it cautiously and enjoy it.

If it hasn't been driven much, then modern detergent oil is liable to flush a pile of crap out of the interior the engine, and some of that can get in important places.  You have cleaned the sump which will have got rid of much of it, but now and again it would still be worth warming it up then draining the oil to let it settle in a pan, then pouring the clean oil back in.

 If any substantial amount of dirt settles out, change the filter then repeat the process after some more use.

That makes sense, thanks

6 hours ago, Keith-wc42 said:

I've found a photo of the drivers seat adjustable seat mechanism now amongst my Dads photos.

Its just a simple rod that passes through the floor mounts. The rod has a cog on each end which fit within those tracks at each side of the seat bottom. You would tilt the seat forward/up to move the rod into the desired notch in the center of the seat bottom.

To be honest i don't like the look of it safety wise so i will have the passenger seat mounts copied and use those.

Any clues as to the drivers / passengers seat differences?  I take it the photo is of another original?

There is a wrinkle here, but I don't remember the answer.  The original WC 42 I assisted with many years ago ( since parted out - bits went to Manchester ) had a bucket seat for the driver and I'm sure the same for the passenger.  There was a canvas curtain across the back of the 'cab' with a roll up centre flap as it was to assist with the blackout, like the curtains the rear windows.

I think you need two single bucket seats for a WC 42, and the single bucket / large tilt setup is for the WC 11 van maybe?

Thanks Richard.  I will reply directly but annoyingly my e-mail seems to be down, or really, really slow, at the minute.

Gordon

They are easy enough to do.  If nervous wrap a tow rope or a chain round the outside of the tyre and through any holes in the rim, then if anything lets go it can't travel.

Put the wheel face down, clip an inflator to it, and then use a remote tap to inflate.  Loads of precautions and you'll be fine.

6 minutes ago, Great War truck said:

 

Looks like an excellent candidate for a braze repair.  That crack is probably longer than it looks so better done sooner than later, assuming it is destined for the second truck.

 

I humbly suggest that anyone that makes their own tank from scratch deserves the rank of Field Marshal, at the very least.

I left two cars / batteries for the duration of the first lockdown, a Mercedes diesel and a Smart car.  Both were understandably pancaked.  

The Smart car jump started and has been fine ever since, the Mercedes battery would hold enough charge to start for one day but no longer, so it was replaced.   I bought two ten watt solar panels and left one on the dash of each car to trickle charge it when not in use.  Both have been fine ever since even after standing during the second lockdown.

8 hours ago, radiomike7 said:

Does that suggest it was RAF at one time, I thought only they used electric trailer brakes?

The Warner plugs and sockets were originally intended for electric brakes, but were commonly used for basic lighting functions.  Good system, just short of one circuit for what is really needed.

That's what we are here for.

There were a whole bunch of Ford, Chev, and Dodge civilian trucks, many from the Canadian plants, which were shipped to North Africa and the UK in that time period just for use as basic transport.  Some were donated by charitable groups, some became NAFFI wagons, etc.

The moulding on the side of the cab suggests '42 Ford, ordinary civilian pattern.  

The military equivalent was the 1GC, but they all came with provision for side mounted spare:

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1071981

Five stud wheels maybe on a half ton or 3/4 ton