Gordon_M

Instructions for testing a ladder before you climb it. :red:

Dashboard earth?

Open cabs are fine, but they do suffer a lot more from the weather, so might be more work.

My advice would be not to turn down a good closed cab if one is on offer, with winch even better.

Ouch. Might be easiest to countersink the witness marks from the original grub screw positions, then Loctite the screws in?

Seventh Service Command, then, Omaha, Nebraska. Both my WC36 Carryalls were Eighth Service Command.

Before you do anything much with the rear of the body, check the aperture for squareness - needs to be within about 1/4" on both diagonals if the lift gate and tailgate are ever going to close correctly.

I still have articles about Carryall winders, tailgates, and roof panels up somewhere;

http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/carryal2.htm

http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/carryal3.htm

http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/carryal4.htm

I'm the only one who had a look at that helmet and immediately wondered how long it would take McLaren to change the tracks, then?

Braze repair the original impeller and stick it back in - suitably braced / spaced, while you get the new casting done?

That's good. Does it turn over freely now those pesky pistons are on the bench?

Obviously you will give it a damn good clean and put it back together, but just wondering if any other owners could suggest other things to check first. What goes west on Ferrets?

Worth checking the fluid flywheel seal before reassembly? You'd be gutted if you put it back together and it ran well, but then you had flywheel seal problems. That seal has been sitting in one position for as long as it took the engine to stick like that.

Real enthusiasts machine there - you can always tell when they look better from underneath looking up than from the top looking down - got a Sno-Cat like that.

Good luck with the house, you shouldn't ever regret it. Some of the youngsters these days may never see the chance.

That diff was built to last, wasn't it?

When you get the scuttle mounted it would be nice to roll the whole thing outside one sunny day for progress photograph please.

You need to go to G503 and type ' tire pump ' into the tools and equipment section search box.

I know there was a late war tyre pump with wire bail ( bale? ) feet like that, but I couldn't identify it.

Welcome back!

 

Combine both fetishes and buy yourself a Humber Pig

 

Cheers,

Terry

Oh no, Dodge Carryall - forget all that heavy armoured stuff ...

Welcome back

Temporarily connect an earth wire from that earth point right back to the battery.

If that isn't it, then your two or three connections to the bulb are wrong, or the bulb isn't earthing to the housing.

Nice, but you need to pad out that channel with some Sterling content John .... :angel:

A very young Michael Caine gets an idea for The Italian Job

It's a GUIDE spotlight, but it's a DUKW one rather than a Weasel one, functionally the same. I suppose I should add that my G-231 Iron Fireman T-36 has one too.

The Weasel / DUKW difference is quite obvious - it has a knob on the end :angel: DUKW unit has knob, Weasel one doesn't. The DUKW mount has a canvas strap with a ring that goes over the knob and holds the whole assembly in place which the Weasel doesn't need.

To use it you need the spotlight handle, or the remote handle mechanism that goes under the screen on the early Weasel. Late Weasel just has the ordinary handle to use it hand-held, with a special parking position just for the lamp left rear of the cargo compartment. T-36 has a special bracket to mount it front left in the cab, and the handle clamps separately to the left side of the dash. They also normally have a corrugated steel mask clipped onto the front edge, OD outside, black inside.

Handy thing to have on the shelf, not a huge value though, and I already have a couple plus brackets and mounts.

The bulb voltage would be 6v for the DUKW, and 12v for the Weasel and T-36, so the 24v bulb means it has been used on something else. I don't know anything WW2 that would've used 24v, maybe something Korean war era though. If it has the correct clear lens in it and the reflector is till in good order I vaguely remember you could unsolder the bulb bit and replace it in some of the configurations. I assume Rex Ward would have a new 6v bulb for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWII-Military-Spotlight-12V-DUKW-Sherman-Tank-Weasel-ect-/281866644716

That's them. D15 ( D=Dodge, 15 = 15cwt )

I suspect you already know, but all these 15 cwts are Canadian Dodge T222 series GS or water tanker trucks - that's the only two versions that chassis was supplied in.

Unfortunately as 4 x 2 trucks they were much in demand post war for ordinary commercial use, after which the vast majority of them ended up in the scrap pile thanks to UK road salt. Survival rate low, much lower than the 4 x 4 US WC equivalent unfortunately. In addition to that, they were made in very large numbers, so the chance of a particular chassis number being found as a survivor is even lower.

Running boards are the steps underneath the doors, and they are lighter pressed metal than the GMC equivalent - they are on there but bent.

Hydrovac is power brake booster, smaller than the one on the GMC. There are detail differences in the GMC hood and fenders too, but not enough to be obvious. Windscreen is the same, cab basically the same but floor different - that sort of thing.

Most G506 owners have two or more round the back of the garage for parts - not a bad plan.

You need to look at the parts that are specific to that truck. Things like the radiator grille, script engine side panels, running boards, and hydrovac.

If it has all those parts - restore it. If they are all missing = part it out.

T118 ? There's your answer right there then, its an engine from a bigger truck;

T118 = 228 or 236 cu in WF engine, 1941-47. It does fit several other types too but all 1.5 to 2 ton. It could be made to fit a half or 3/4 ton, but from what I remember it should be a 25" long block, where all the original Dodge small truck engines were 23.5" long at the head / block joint.

If the engine was taken from a Weapon Carrier chances are the front engine mount and radiator mounting was altered too, to find another 1.5" for the water pump and fan.

You could ask Steve Rivers if he had an oil pump and distributor drive for a T118 series engine somewhere?

What's the engine code off the top left front corner of the block Howard?

I think the engines of the 1.5 ton WF series have longer distributor drives, but all the 201, 217, and 230 cu in stuff should interchange

It certainly looks better. I reckon the tank would probably have been galvanised or the like when new, which has prevented a pile of work.

There is certainly some cab work to do, but it doesn't look complicated.

To me the deal was the big Coleman Aircraft Tug - that would have been worth a speculative bid - ah well.

Tow bar? No, bit of a size issue. Whole thing is only about 18" long and 4" wide. Might fit the front of a wheel barrow. The pins at each end are no more than 3mm diameter.

I'll plead lack of scale reference in the original photo m'lud :angel:

It still looks like lifting or towing kit, but with 1/8" pins ( don't do metric .... ) won't be for anything much. Hatch, flange, or the like lifting?