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Gordon_M

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Posts posted by Gordon_M

    Ford v8 gun tractor

    in I may be stupid, but......

    Posted

     

    Or was there another Ford V8 based gun tractor?

     

    i know that there might be more information on the Maple Leaf forum but other posts on here seem to suggest it harder to join than the hellfire club ;) if any one can help with the best way to approach getting access any advice would be appreciated.

     

    thanks for any info in response to the above questions,

     

    cheers Julian

     

    Morning Julian, we all know Dodges are better, but ...

     

    The common one was the Ford LAAT, Light Anti-Aircraft Tractor, I'm sure Nigel Watson lost one or two in that fire.

    as for joining MLU, just PM Hanno, who goes by the name of mcspool on here.

    chassis number mismatch

    in Legislation, Licenses & Registration

    Posted

    Here's an interesting problem;

    I'm just filling out a VTG1 to get my Bedford MJ tested before I register it but the chassis number does not match the paperwork I have! The army disposal form 654 has the correct mileage and the correct army registration number but the chassis number does not match the plate on the vehicle! What do I do now?

     

    Absolute first thing is to find the actual chassis stamp, never mind the plate.

    Dodge wc53 restoration

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    It's looking very straight and clean Howard, not many WC53 do. I sent you some images of the rear window winder mechanisms, so if you are still short one let me know. I think I'm out of most of the Carryall-specific stuff now, though I did discover a pair of NOS front door winders too.

    87 ET 77 Militant

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted · Edited by Gordon_M
    Added link

    My main concern is sealing the roof joints to keep the moisture out. It won't be a top finish by any means as I'll be giving it a go but it will have to do for now. Iain

     

    My secret weapon for this sort of thing is the rubber roof paint that B&Q do, or at least did, for flat roofed house problems. There is a thin, clear rubber primer, and when that cures a black rubber top coat. It is absolutely unkillable and has done Carryall roofs, Dodge screens and back windows, weasel tracks, and a load of other things. If you just want to ensure your roof is sealed the clear primer would do it.

     

    Two issues though;

     

    1. It cures rather than dries, so the minute you open a can the clock is ticking and you really should use it up. Sticking the lid back on doesn't mean it will be usable if you open the can again six months later.

     

    2. It if fiendishly expensive - see also (1) above :angel:

     

    Iain, never noticed you were in Aberdeenshire. I'm normally in Aberdeen city all week, but on holiday in sunny Falkirk at the minute.

     

    Added later, this stuff;

     

    http://www.diy.com/departments/isoflex-liquid-rubber-black-roof-sealant-21l/35463_BQ.prd

    Driving tracked vehicles around rail tracks.

    in Tracked vehicles

    Posted

    Obviously if you are just crossing the tracks then it's just a minor ridge and should be crossed at right angles

     

    NO absolutely not !:mad: Any vehicle with track plates should never be driven straight across rail tracks, you should always take them at an angle. Tracked vehicle operators manuals normally specify this - Weasel ones certainly do. Flex in the track bands allows two plates to lock down over a bull head rail and bring proceedings to an abrupt halt.

    Tool boxes Ward LaFrance

    in Transporters & Wreckers (All Nations)

    Posted

    That's a PLOMB 9989 from the Plomb 15A catalog, 1936 to 1941, catalog is here;

     

    http://bartlettstreet.com/toolcatalogs/

     

    The box is right, but in 1942 they changed from PLOMB - LOS ANGELES , to PLOMB - USA, and they stayed that way through to 1948 when they changed to PROTO because of a trademark dispute with PLUMB.

     

    A PLOMB 9989A from the 19R catalog would be ideal for applications 1942-45, but the only difference would be the - USA instead of - LOS ANGELES on the lid.

     

    All these boxes are rare and expensive now. I have a smaller Plomb box and a pile of the plain Plomb and Plomb WF ( Wright Field contract ) tools made for USAAC / USAAF You will also find Plomb tools marked with PWA ( Pratt & Whitney Aircraft ) Ranger AT ( Fairchild Aviation ) plus various Navy and Naval Air Force variants.

    WWII - U.S. Miltary AEC no. USA201126

    in Research Centre

    Posted

    The only impressed AEC that comes to mind is a bus.

     

    The USAAF were given some impressed busses to ferry air crew and casualties between bases and hospitals. Might be one of those since it is USA 20xxxx and the 20 prefix normally denotes a personnel carrier of some kind.

     

    I think I saw that in Fred Crismon's US Military Wheeled Vehicles, but not sure.

    Dodge Brakes

    in American Vehicles

    Posted

    There's an "other" Dodge place Tony? do tell me where?

     

    There were civilian and military remote reservoir kits. The civilian one was glass, so you could see how much was in it, but the military one was steel so it wouldn't get broken. Each led to a solid replacement cap for the standard cylinder.

     

    Brake spring pliers? I thought everyone had an original set - they aren't expensive.

    Dodge VC3 restoration

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    Hi I have just purchased a Dodge VC3, I need to do a few jobs on it, would like to make contact as I believe I have the only one in England, are you taking yours to Normandy D Day celebrations this year.

    Regards

    Kevin

     

    Hi Kevin, is it my old one, May Seventh 1940?

     

    Gordon

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    in Pre WW2 vehicles

    Posted · Edited by Gordon_M

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]114873[/ATTACH]

     

    Isn't this just a beautiful little part! ... The radii are perfect and all the edges are absolutely square. Surface finish is perfect too. Definitely 11 out of 10 for this.

     

    Well, yes and no. I'd agree 11 out of 10 for making it, but if you have a look at the original casting it's clear that the radii were never perfect and the edges were never square. The original casting looks to have been spot-faced to a different depth on each side, and you can see the centre hole wasn't really drilled exactly in the centre. This new part is just a bit too good.

     

    The crew have put a huge amount of time and effort into this truck ( I think Dennis was up and running about page 100, Thor is now at page 215 ... ) and clearly have decided to leave original pitted surfaces on many components rather than go for perfect factory finishes.

     

    The down side is that a perfectly produced well finished new component is just that bit more obvious. Of course you could just throw it in a cement mixer with a bunch of steel scrap for an hour or two, then leave it outside in vinegar for a month, followed by a heavy grit blast, but the balance between new and old has to be managed by the restorers that are actually doing the job.

     

    Any comments on your logic for showing / hiding component age, chaps?

     

    Any idea if the radiator end stay rod mount is the same / similar?

    No. 187

    in Clive's Mystery Objects

    Posted

    Instantly recognisable Clive as we still do a variation on the same procedure today, called 'walking the rungs' - you support a ladder section horizontally a foot from each end, then just walk up it rung by rung. The principle being that if a rung is going to break you are better off finding out about it 6" above the ground.

     

    Now then, Mystery Object 188 please :angel:

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