Gordon_M

Ouch, well those are toast. Rebuild one journal but get all of them refinished I think?

Interesting, so basically they start at 2 1/16" and final undersize is exactly 2".

I remember you mentioned that those one cylinder shells did not match the other five cylinders, so after you have measured up the journal in question, pull the cap on the next journal and see what size that is, either by the markings on the shells or by measuring it. If you are getting one journal reworked you will want to know the size of the other five before you start asking for quotes.

Give all the other big ends a good rattle while you are there in case you have more than one issue, :cool2: but I would expect any rework company to do additional checks anyway before starting work, then check the cleanliness of the crank oil passageways before returning it to you.

Have you fitted the wipers yet Gordon?

Nope, I have a nice neat pile of parts to fit the T-36 and the motor you unsealed is the one I'll use, got all the links, swivels, and stuff ready. At the minute the cab is off and I'm cleaning up both track frames prior to painting and refitting the driver compartment.

Once that is done, the plan is to blast the cab frame, paint, and re-mount it, and then I can go wild with all the new bits, including the motor. I have plenty of images and dimensions to make the missing dash panel now, and most of the hardware. When the cab is together, roofed and glazed, I'm going to look at the engine, plumbing, and wiring, and when it is all there and running then I'll start to think about the tracks, and not before, since It isn't like I'm going to get any real use out of it. I reckon by my 110th birthday I should be able to drive the T-36 out of the garage, but by that time global warming will mean that I'll have no snow to put it on.

One of the other three T-36 survivors is now rebuilt and driving, but apparently it is really heavy and a pig to drive - who would have guessed :-D

Ah, US Army snow stuff.

Think yourself lucky you only have one Degsy ( two vehicles and four snow trailers as of today )

Thanks again for that motor

Any of the engine rebuilders can get it done for you then machined back. It is actually plasma-sprayed and then cut back, typically ( as here ) to save an otherwise good crank with one knackered journal.

http://www.metallisation.com/applications/reclamationofcrankshaftsbyplasmaspray.html

See if you can get a new or reground crank to swap in, but then send the original away to get built up and reground so you have a spare, or one to sell.

We need someone to post the standard journal diameter, for a start. If all of them were 060 under before one went west then you have your answer.

When you say it is number 1, do you mean number 1 next to the firewall or number 1 next to the water pump? If it is number 1 next to the firewall you should remove, clean, possibly replace the water distribution tube too.

If you have to pull the crank get the journal welded up and cut back down, rather than binning it. Quality material.

Tis educational though. I never realised there were four different bearing sizes, in decreasing diameters, but when you consider it is inserted from one end it makes sense. I wonder how many people have run aground fitting them in the wrong order?

That's the CAMSHAFT Tony, not the crankshaft, but good try :cool2:

That's very impressive indeed - well done.

I can't help feeling another original is going to turn up, now that you have gone to all that trouble ...

Never seen anything quite like that one ...

Nice car. I think the tyres need more attention than the lights though. :blush:

You may want to look at getting the headlight lenses replated, not cheap, but will give shiny lights for another seventy years.

It is easy to distract from the original appearance by fitting modern indicators and brake lights, no matter how safe they appear. Might be worth investigating 6 volt LED lights which can give a lot of output for a really small light size and they can be much less distracting visually.

Ironically if you keep it totally original it should have what we call 'legacy compliance' and be quite legal to run as it came off the production line, but any alterations / additions / improvements have to comply with current rules and regs, of course.

If it was mine I'd keep the full original lighting system, and add LED indicators, brake lights, maybe even a high level brake light. Probably some extra reflector capacity on the rear so that modern speeding traffic doesn't get caught out.

That one, Rock 'n Roll, has been recommissioned over this winter by Scott and the team working for the Tucker Museum. The hemi V8 had stuck solid after decades in inactivity and needed a full rebuild.

The expedition was staffed by commonwealth ex-military types, and a lot of military parts, like script Ford GPW tow hooks, found their way onto the machines.

A - Able, Canterbury Museum in New Zealand, with one of Hillary's Ferguson semi tracks

B - Rock 'n Roll, Tucker Museum, Medford, Oregon.

C - Haywire, Science Museum London ( normally stored at Wroughton )

The fourth 'cat, County of Kent, which never got a door code, was unfortunately lost in a fatal accident after the expedition.

Just as well

The only time the Sno-Cat is needed is when nothing else ( short of a helicopter ) is moving anyway, and that includes our chums in the nice traffic police

Typical Sno-Cat conditions;

Used extensively by the US Air Force for search and rescue, as well as a lot of secret squirrel stuff on the DEW Line and the like. Constant four track drive, huge pontoon articulation, zero side slip pontoons, and wagon steer make it pretty much unstoppable.

Now all I have to do is persuade my Sno-Cat and T-36 that they want to exceed 20 mph ( other than on the back of a transporter )

Cor, I was a bit worried when I saw 1700 degrees until I saw the F :blush:

Only used this once, years ago. Chap I worked with just heated whatever it was till it was red hot and dropped it in the stuff, rolled it around, then shifted it to a forge for a bit and then quenched it.

I've not done it myself so have no first hand knowledge, but I do hear good things about fitting an eight volt battery

( Optima? ) and making a minor adjustment to the voltage regulator output to put the required voltage into it.

Apparently this makes a very noticeable improvement to starting, and the voltage regulator is the only thing you have to adjust, everything else stays the same.

I do agree with the advice that if you are running 6 volts you cannot afford and dirty or slack connections. I fitted a battery disconnect to my DUKW and then took it out again when I detected that there was a 0.5 volt drop across it in the circuit, which is too much to lose on a 6 volt system.

I'm not a fan of the double trailer, but then I realised it would stop some pillock in a truck having their windscreen come together with the business end of that artillery :-D

It has been a great thread to follow, thanks for that. I'm waiting to see you sort out the radiator tanks some time :-)

I think Scott needs to post a photo of how it looks now for comparison. Have you got one of it now, Scott?

The best solution is to fix whatever is wrong with the original setup, pushrod, cam, whatever.

Every time I have seen someone retro-fit an electric fuel pump to a system not designed for it they have had problems, nearly always related to excess pump output pressure overwhelming the carb. If you have to go electric, low pressure ...

great video, never seen them on the move before. The film does look a bit like its been speeded up like a lot of older films do when played back, some of the figure movement looks a bit manic.

I was thinking entirely the reverse Paul. Looks to me that they did a frame by frame restoration of the film, and then were able to set the 'play' speed by comparing the walking speed of the people. I think the tank speed must be pretty much accurate.

Come back and tell us what you find please Ross

Not enough of it to be a QL.

CMP Ford or Chev maybe, bit big to be a HUP or HUW though.

It's a locking bolt of some kind, for sure, you screw it in and then lead-fill the slot to prevent tampering.

(Resist any offers from Great War Truck for it - they will only want to build an entire truck round it 8-)

 

I wonder if they have any old stock?

 

 

If they will match the price in the advertisement, I'm in :blush: