fv1609

Thanks for all the suggestions. Buying it ready matted is not an option because it is not a standard colour & I have to mix it myself, which is something I am quite happy doing. I have painted two vehicles in homemade colours rather than ready bought stuff.

Whenever I see paint very cheap I buy it on the basis that I can paint a shed, gate etc or use it as the basis for mixing it to paint a vehicle even if only for an undercoat.

The paint I am trying to create is 'Rustoleum Green' used in 1969 by the RUC on their pigs, Shorlands & some Commers. Rustoleum are unable to identify the type of green they had at that time. I am lucky in that I have a Shorland that was originally Rustoleum Green (they were contrary to popular belief never grey) I have been able to expose 2 square inches of undamaged perfectly preserved paint. But taking the vehicle that has not been driven for 10 years to a paint dealer is not an option. Besides I am too mean to buy new & want the satisfaction of mixing it myself for next to nowt.

The funny thing is that when the RUC painted the pigs Light Admiralty Grey for a brief period in 1962 I received lots of criticism when I displayed it in this colour. Recently I have shown it in a rather odd surplus green there has been no comment, but I know it is wrong.

The colour is a dull emraldy green, I can achieve this with Light Brunswick Green, Victorian Green, Dark Admiralty Grey, Light Stone & Black. The first two are gloss the last three are matt but the mixture is far too glossy. These have been purchased in 1-gallon cans for £3-£5 or found at the tip, which will be quite an economical way to paint a vehicle.

Now when I eventually get this match to Rustoleum Green it will look rather awful but I will know it is correct & that's what counts!

Yes he has rung me thanks, the comms system your end seems fully intergated to developments, you obviously run a very smooth operation ;-)

When I have asked before about converting gloss paint to matt, the suggestion has been to add chalk. Not having any chalk I have tried talcum powder, about one third powder to two thirds paint by volume.

This seems to have done nothing for the finish, just made the paint a bit thicker. Talc is hydrated magnesium silicate & chalk is calcium carbonate is it a chemical issue? I had assumed it was to do with the particle size.

Anyone experiences of matting agents commercial or homemade? When I search for these things its mainly about model makers & arty-crafty things.

I have got Equipment Table Schedule No. S3299 Toolkit Vehicle Mechanic REME 1987.

Does that sound about right?

Oh I don't know Clive thought you have found room for such a pair of treasures :roll:

 

Jerry well its certainly very tempting, no bids yet on the first book. Did you want to borrow it after I have read it?

Jagshemash

My wive she not stopp talking me, she say me Borat do this then Borat not the do that. Is making my head in. she even bring shame on me in the village she speek without asking me the permit. is not allowed her to speek without her husband make permit, what do she know about anyway? even my no.2 donkey has more of the know of politics. is why i suppose our politicians are like have brain of donkey but is not the same in U&K ?

She make me look a weeak man & people think i am not a master in my own places & maybee think me a la-la man who do the bung-bung in the forest. So now i have make a new muzzle for her if the go out, is very smart & is for comfortable i think, but she not able to speak to tell to me! give me nice quiet time four once!

i sometimes love my wive a bit only when she is no speak so i have go to buy from rat catcher a specail muzzle (is club class premier model) only make from the well fed rat, not like the wive muzzle made from the rat from sewedge places & sell in the tourist shops. it is design from traditional wive muzzle handed down since the saw places uprising of 1645

i give her one for her birth of day soon & buy nice bday card from make in U&K, i think is picture of fluffy pink rabbit with hydrocephalus which sell in your cardshops.

muzzle is feel nice & smooth, i like, i invatate to him for he make for also me nice rat skin pair of why fronts, but with the large spaces for me as i am not like the small men in the village.

Worning here is man pretend to me, is not true he bring me shame

i think he is like a man who is not to trust like a bad man make a forced entry & committed a buggelary, which is bad crime here but is maybe ok in U&K ? But he make me sick & give my the dyerrear so must make flush the basin, i go quickly

oh yes i nearly have forget i like come the salisberry plane & meet again the boys who know how to give a freind a nice time, is you go because is nice sheep on the plane? Save one for me jery & jack, & don’t leave me the skinny one, i know your tricks. is no sheep alllowed on our plane as not too many seats, i must buy the lottery ticket for raffle to have the plane ticket on the flite in may.

jack is nice idea have loneley heart page, i like a very much dorset tottys but please have no moustach like on my wive, but must have strong thigh for fieldwork & pedalling concrete mixer.

Chenque, ah is too late i talk too long now i have make brown mistake on the floor, but the goat is liking it i think not

Seller has quite a diverse range of publications:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PERSONAL-HYGIENE-FOR-GIRLS-by-Mary-Humphreys-1919-Illus_W0QQitemZ190093270012QQcategoryZ101016QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ACME-WRINGERS-1939-Folded-Catalogue-Price-List-Glasgow_W0QQitemZ190090244002QQcategoryZ108915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I know I like collecting books but there is a limit though

Jerry, I would set the alternator to mid position. then thread some "clothes line rope" around the pulleys & mark off the rope & measure it. Obviously if you measured how long is piece of string it would be too low as the narrow string would dig into the pulley grooves & not sit where a V belt would. See how the rope measurement tallies with the known available sizes or go to a commercial belt co & see what is off the shelf.

Jerry you asked for Series 2a/3 lightweight & what I gave you was from the IPC for S3 LtWt which gives the fan belt as 535688 for FFR & GS.

But yours is 2a? Looking in the IPC for that the fan belts are 535688 is for FFR but the GS it is 554389. Note the water pump (& not just the pulley) is different for FFR & GS.

When it comes to the alternator belts they are same for GS & FFR:

Belt, V Endless, Matched Set, 40 degrees, 41in long. 554389

I have a pair of NOS 554389 even tied together with the official label for a matched pair :-D

Matt, I don't know when yellow came in. There is no reference to it in FVDD Specification No.2012 1st January 1948. This includes RAF MT vehicles, bikes & saloon cars. For MT vehicles:

Undercoat Dark Battleship Grey BSC 32

Finish Coat, High Gloss, RAF Blue, Grey BSC 33

Chassis, valences & wings were Black.

NB Saloon cars, the wings were BSC 33 as well

For RAF numbers in white letters & figures 3.5in x 2.5in x 5/8in

Later in 1948 the BSC spec was changed from the 1931 system to introduce a prefix number for basic colour so these two above became 632 & 633. Although 633 was deleted in 1996.

Hi all,

Can anyone advise on what is a good buy?? as I am well confused by the choice!!!

in a pickle

Hardyferret :-D :-D

 

I started in 1956 with a Mine Detector No.3 (Polish) going on the beach looking for money that the grockles had left. It was rather heavy for a small boy to carry but good fun. Bought it in a scrapyard for 2/-. no valves in it I found out that ARP12s from a No.38 Set fitted & it worked!

Jerry, so what are you looking for? Ordnance in the garden?

Does anyone know what size the fan belts are on a 2a/3 lightweight fitted with double belt pulleys and alternator 12volt??

 

ta Hardyferret :? :-D

 

Fan belt for GS & FFR: 535688 Belt, V, Endless, 0.5in wide, 40in outside

Belt alternator FFR: 538393 Belt, V, Endless, Matched Pair, 0.5in wide, 52in outside

Belt alternator GS: 587086 Belt, V, Endless, Matched Pair, no measurements given

I may have a 587086 I can measure.

Now got horn,

Jolly good

Only quoting from your Windscreen article, it was shown as Group 11, will amend my copy!

Richard

 

Richard it is correct in Windscreen. Also on here as

http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/NATOparts.pdf

I have a 1240 99 9614 207 Waterproof Hood & I'd like to know what it fits!

Cheers Chris

Well that comes up as Cover, Waterproof made by Hall & Watts Defence Optical of St Albans. Used by UK, NZ & Belgium. That's all I've got on it.

Wasn't the L1A1 the 7.62mm SLR???

 

Yes but there are lots of L1A1 it seems to be modern speak for No.1 Mk1 etc. It is model of a particular equipment, it isn't an equipment in its own right.

1240 : Group 11 Nuclear Ordnance - Optical Sighting and Ranging Equipment

Yes 1240 is Optical Sighting and Ranging Equipment, but it belongs to the FSC Group 12 which is Fire Control Equipment

(ps - any joy in locating that gaiter - you did say to remind you weekly!! :-D )

 

No, but I think it is under here:

Thanks Clive!! Funnily enough - I can't see a member section on the forum -top of the pages says "Registered Forum Members will be able to see additional info".

 

Any idea what I'm doing wrong sir???

 

Neil, go to the members list & look for entry no.2 & pm Wayne Davies quoting your membership number.

I used to use Fertan which is tannic acid (brown with a wonderful aromatic smell) the boast was that it had been used to conserve the submarine Holland I built in 1901. But when I was in the Submarine Museum last year I see that this did not work & the thing was still coroding away & an entirely diffrent appoach was adopted. I gather it failed to do any good on SS Great Britain & allegedly used at Bovington

I did find that the rust continued & although you don't hear much of Fertan these days there are other rust convertors but they do smell the same!

http://www.nhsc.org.uk/index.cfm/event/getVessel/vref/427

http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0848-8525%281987%2919%3A1%3C16%3AFR%3E2.0.CO%3B2-2&size=LARGE

http://www.eura.co.uk/ssgb.pdf

Clive,

 

Do you know what the date is on that one and I'll see if I can get one. It looks the same as the ones I gave to Mike, except for the 'Drive Defensively' background.

 

If anyone wants a copy of the stuff I have, I can post some or even if one of the Admin can make a PDF file up to post on this site.

 

Nige

 

Nige don't know the date but probably fairly recent as it is in fancy colours & it was with a pile of stuff that included some Wolf documentation

Whereabouts - I'm a member of EMLRA - but can't recall seeing anything like that on the forums????

Neil, go into the members section, the second sticky topic go into that about Sankey trailers the last entry is from Mike Allmey who has posted a link to his site with quite a few documents, but it doesn't have this one (sorry about torn corner)

 

Clive,

 

I was surprised you missed that point, always think of you as the vehicle electrics guru ;-)

 

Richard

 

Yes well don't rub it in. I have things going on here, I'll pm you on. But I dived in without thinking, I was tempted to modify the original post & extricate myself. But a bit of public humiliation I suppose is always entertaining!

There is trick for testing the polarity of the spark to try to see in which direction the electrons are flowing. By holding the HT lead several mm from the plug terminal & interposing a pencil lead between the two a flare is produced. If the polarity of the HT is correct a flare is seen between the pencil & plug, reversed polarity & the flare is between the pencil & the cable.

I have just checked that I have got it the right was round. But this book says that -ve earth or +ve earth coils may be used for either polarity of vehicle. But to ensure the polarity of the spark is correct then use the -ve terminal should go to the contact breaker for -ve earth vehicles & the +ve terminal should go to the contact breaker for +ve earth vehicles. So I wasn't 100% bollox after all ;-)

Clive,

 

I seem to remember that if the coil is connected the wrong way round, that the spark jumps form the body of the plug to the electrode and resulting in a weaker spark. I always view the coil connections as the feed to the contacts being marked to the relevant earth polarity of the vehicle.

 

Richard

 

Ah yes I was forgetting that the polarity of the spark would be reversed. The problem is that the centre electrode of the plug should be -ve so that the spark jumps to the earth, wrong way round & a higher voltage is needed to get an equivalent spark. Also as the spark jumps it erodes the electrode a little & the centre electrode is designed for this. So I was talking bollox, so proper polarity coil for the appropriate earth system of the vehicle.

Hi,

 

I have a repro Auto-Lite coil as sold by several dealers for Jeeps and Dodge's,I want to use it on my Clarktor with has a positive ground electrical system,my question is are coils specific to Positive or negative ground systems?

 

Thanks,

 

Matt.

 

AFAIK the coil has no specific polarity & it was much more sensible when the switched battery input was marked SW & the other end of the winding that went to the contact breaker marked CB. Unfortrunately in modern systems it seems to be a -ve earth system then SW is now marked + & CB is now marked -

I see no reason why the coil should not work in a +ve earth vehicle provided you translate it in your mind to SW & CB terminals. It would be important to be certain whether the coil is for a -ve earth vehicle or a +ve earth vehicle.

I suspect but not completely sure that +ve earth vehicles used SW & CB whereas -ve earth ones use + & -

It helps to remember the ignition coil is a transformer. The input (ie primary) winding is fed with switched battery supply (SW) & the other end goes to the CB terminal which is also connected to one end of the output (secondary) winding. The other end of the secondary is the HT output.