Chris Hall

There’s something therapeutic about sending something grotty off and getting it back clean with new bits on it! I love seeing a nicely skimmed cylinder block, nice new machine marks, no dings or scratches. Nice.

One thing I would change (just me being picky) is the bolts. Modern bolts just don’t look right, both the markings on the head and the length suggest modern. I was always trained that 2 threads showing after the nut is what you want. In fact, would it not have had a stud with a nut on either side rather than a bolt? Just a thought and it doesn’t really detract from a very clean looking engine. It’s always something you can think about later (let’s face it, Ron’s still fettling bikes he restored when he was in the womb)

I’ve been wire wheeling and painting when I can this last week, it’s only a temporary measure to test fit the rear armour before I strip and shot blast.

I also re-fitted the repaired Delco Remy trailer socket cover and some other repaired parts.

You may have to put a tap through to clean it up. Try removing the threaded section on the other side and fitting the screw to see if that side tightens up. The screw should go tight but the slide bit should remain loose. The anti rattle spring fits between the 2 to erm, anti rattle lol.

These

https://www.rfjp.com/p-1661-windshield-adjusting-arm-pivot-screws-spring-washers-a2239-k.aspx

If I recall correctly, it should be a mushroom head slotted screw.

I would remove as much of both brackets as you can with a grinder but leave traces of where the weld is. Then dry fit the brackets in place and if happy, put a few weld tacks on the brackets. Fit your windscreen frame to make sure everything is aligned and you could then reinforce the welds or even finish the welds with the screen in place. Just make sure you protect the glass if it’s fitted. It doesn’t take much for weld or grinding sparks to mark the glass.

Have you found any decent parts suppliers? I found a few in Europe but they don’t have the ammeter box which I’m missing. Mine is on an M20 trailer but it will go in the back of my M16. It’s from an Ex Italian Fiat gun truck.

Massive improvement!

Great photo, can you make out the number on the original?

It looks like it may have been stuck nose down in a ditch and then used the winch to pull out. The damage to the bumper suggests the only way to get out was to put the cable over the bumper.

Not updated much recently due to the weather and kids. 
 

I used my 2 original panels to get the dimensions for the screw holes on my 2 new panels and found something was wrong.

Im about a 1/4” out in length but I don’t think it’s my repro plates. 
 

I’ve stripped the right side track armour out with the intention of cleaning the joins of rust and crud in the hope of re-gaining that 1/4” at the rear. 
 

What I found was that the track armour attaches to the Maxson bed at the bottom only; and without the rigidity of the side armour, it allowed the track armour to sag. Then with the track armour sagging, it let muck accumulate between the bed and the armour plate. This in turn trapped water and the steel had swollen quite a bit. 
 

So I’ve been spending most of my time removing every part and blasting each ready for reassembly. This will be a dry fit so I’m leaving in primer for fitting up of the armour.

My new plan is to assemble everything into a complete track before disassembling again for painting fully.

The photos show the gap between the track armour and back plate, the removed right side track armour (corrosion and crap on the vertical plate), the external gap in the rear left corner and then how it should be.

I don’t think you can call it a shed, let’s go with MT section or motor pool.

You must be talking about a BMW.

For me, I like a used look, one that has a few dents, scratches and worn areas. I don’t like the abused look where it’s obvious something has been left to rust out to the point that no one sees a value in it and it’s simply been unloved.

Unless of course, someone decides to preserve it in that state, such as that WW1 tank that was dug up and preserved as found. That kept the rust and damage and looked a mess but it retained that originality of the battlefield.

It looks like the brake pedal boss sheared off with fatigue. If it was brazed on, check all the solder has gone before you weld.

Nice big garage, but Memphis Belle really needs her own hangar!!

I’ve managed to get some thanks, a local place called laserfab. It was only £240 for the rear panel (huge) 2 side panels (1/2 as huge), 2 doors and a panel to fit under the rear. I was getting quotes for £1000 just for the rear panel!

Not tried it Ron, trouble is you never know if it was a 6’ Swedish blond female volley ball player or a 3’ tall German shepherd called kaiser. 

A bit like yellow snow!

Is this SPAM?

It looks like the back box of a domestic  double socket.

I knew I’d seen one recently, someone else asking about them on.......sorry....Halftracks.

I wrote a lengthy and witty reply but it crashed and didn’t post.

in brief, I know it’s not cheap overall but don’t tell the wife. She’s only just got over the shock of me buying a 5.0 super charged Range Rover. And let’s not mention the shock she had when the £6000 jeep rocked up sans floor!

I think that box is pretty standard across the US ww2 vehicle range so should be easy to find.

Regarding costs of restoration and parts, I bought a Halftrack because there are more original parts out there at a reasonable cost over those of the jeep.

My VEP GPW cost £6000 to purchase as a wreck. My M16 Halftrack cost £6000 as a wreck.

Original NOS cab armour is available and most of it is £20 to £100. I was missing the doors, 2 side rear armour panels and the large cross panel which I bought as cut to size blanks for £240 same price as the jeep rear 1/4 panels. Tyres I can get for £400 for 2 which is what I paid for 2 Ford branded VEP GPW tyres. Crate engines are a little more at £7000 or so compared to Jeep engines (is it £6000 for a French rebuild?).

The real expensive part is the tracks, that is a cost I won’t mention lol.

I’m sure quite a few don’t bother with anything but if you’re rebuilding the engine it’s probably worth getting new valve seats fitted anyway.

What you will find is that the engine has quite wide values for tune up due to the pool petrol these vehicles were expected to use. With the good quality petrol available now it’s better to ignore the manual and use the methods you will find on the G503 or on YouTube. I think Greendot did a good YouTube vid on this.

2 minutes ago, welbike said:

Chris, that will absolutely not work with the Matchless numberplate holder.

Cheers,

Lex

That’s a pitty!