Chris Hall

Did PE95 generator engine not have their own serial number? Why would they put an MB prefix on the block? 

No probs, keeping my eyes open. I can’t see the photo as my iPhone doesn’t appear to have the required app to open it. But now I know what you need I’ll be on the look out. I’ve seen single parts recently but haven’t seen a complete one in years. 

Was it this bit you needed? On Facebook marketplace.

Stick some cushions on it and watch tv!

I would question if the plate is original, and if original, are the markings? That font isn’t one I’ve ever seen in the US, they are usually very simple unlike this style.

It wouldn’t be a war reserve either as that would imply that it had still been accepted. 
 

There’s also no other details, so it could be a replacement NOS plate, but I doubt the vehicle left the factory with it installed.

Picked up a Tulsa 18G for the HT on Saturday. It was a bit of a gamble as the seller couldn’t find any details on it. It needs some work and there’s a few parts missing. I luckily was gifted a few missing parts before I’d even seen this one for sale. I never thought I’d find one in the UK.

The drive end has been reversed and the non drive end is from a Braden winch so I’ll need to replace it with the correct Tulsa part (shown in the borrowed photo of the restored winch parts)

I do remember a story of Bren Bipod legs being used as No.4 bayonet scabbards during a shortage. Not sure on how true that is!

Loving the detail and all the brass!

I’m thinking L3 Browning .30 (1919A4) and/or GPMG.

Go kart, Morgan 3 wheeler, cement mixer, lawn mower……

If you can get it into the places it’s needed, graphite grease could work. We use it at work on some high heat area where normal grease burns off. Its a dry powder and gets everywhere but it’s an idea.

There’s some awesome machining involved in those. Very nice.

I see it’s for sale now.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224621980131?hash=item344c8369e3:g:rK4AAOSw4j9hTeYB

I’ll keep an eye open. Are you bothered about it being Brit/Aus or Canadian? Cut for Mk2 gun or not?

On 9/27/2021 at 8:47 AM, LarryH57 said:

Thanks all!

And BTW Ted what MGs are fitted to the A/Cs in the photos you posted?

They are indeed .303” Mk2* Brownings, they must have been on good terms with a local RAF base to get .303” air service ammo in links (probably life ex on hours).

Apart from the water, the Ethanol will eat non treated rubber. If you have fuel lines, seals and pump membranes made before a certain date, it will turn them into a jelly.

That’s a lot of rust for your money.

On 9/10/2021 at 12:11 PM, sealives said:

Hi

I have just acquired a 1941 350cc s/v engine for my WD/C restoration project. Took the head and cylinder off, and its obvious the big end has too much up/down play. Can anyone suggest an engine rebuild company (ideally in Dorset)?

Thanks in advance.

Buy the repro WD manual or the 2 period  service manuals as it’s not too hard to do yourself. Is the engine complete?

If I remember correctly, you can’t fit CO rear frames to the J, well you could but, as the angles change the gearbox plates don’t line up. The engine also doesn’t sit well in the rear frame as it sits about an inch lower. 

This is going to vary by climate due to heat and moisture.
 

You can remove ethanol quite simply from the fuel, if you search YouTube there are a ton of videos describing the process.

For me, I’d drain the petrol, run the engine until the carb is dry and coat the inside with something, or fill with a stable fuel like Avgas if you can get it.

There’s an early war version and a postwar Korea version. The post war version is much bigger, I have photos somewhere.

I’m told by some guys in the US that the Quad will only run for about 10 mins on fully charged batteries before the voltage begins to drop and current draw goes up causing over heat. 
 

this is the power set I have to use.
 

We also had LHD Landies that were used in the U.K. (continental returns?) although I don’t remember ever taking them off base.

Collected the riser rings at the weekend. I was going to collect them in a normal saloon car until I got the dimensions. Ended up hiring a Ford Expedition which swallowed them up with ease.

Yep, lock n stitch.