Ron

I've fitted all the handlebar controls and cables, apart from the front brake cable which I've just calculated the dimensions for. Strangely the parts list states that both the carb cables have mid adjusters, which no other WD bike had to my knowledge......But they are handy! The bike is far from finished but I thought I'd temporarily hang some of the more essential item on for some pictures to send to DVLA with my application for its age related registration. Whilst the tank was in place it gave me the opportunity to make a fuel pipe. I've also ordered a "fictitious" RN stencil number from Axholme. Ron

My sump shield is finished and fitted. I've also fitted the rocker box lids and the handlebar ready for the the controls next, and the front number plate that Jan made. (And no it is the correct way round😊) I really like the look and fit of my Stainless steel exhaust system. Ron

I think it was more an availabilty thing. For instance, my own 3HW is a late contract 1944. The parts list quotes " Saddle universal" either a Terry saddle with matress springs or a Lycett with elastics. Whatever can be drawm from the suppiers or stores at the time. Ron

I can't tell right now if yours is Terry's or Lycettes. Some had 12 slots for 6 bungees and some had 14 slots for 7 bungees. But Jan has written everything you might want to know about WD saddles in this thread. Ron

It looks like it's been cut in the middle and at least one slot is missing. The slots are for bungee hooks, not mattress springs. Ron

I guess they were made under licence by whoever wanted them around the World. Strange that we kept the metric threads to the fixing studs. But I have a feeling that the correct metric nuts might have had an imperial hex. .......Lex, Jan or Rik will correct me. It's been my theory for a while that they used 0BA nuts which are exactly the same thread as M6. Ron

This is the normal British version. The fixing nuts do have a metric thread though. Ron

That is also my experience. The CO front brake is crap! I ride mine mostly with just the rear brake. I use the front brake only for controlling speed down steep hills to save the rear brake heating up. My model WD/G has a much bigger better front brake. You could talk to https://saftek.co.uk/ and see if they might suggest a much softer lining. Ron

Today I've been busy making a sump shield with some 2.5mm plate. I've got to weld the front brackets on next and then figure out the rear brackets. Ron

Ah yes John. I have that picture. Another G3 type chaingaurd. But based on the part number being so close to a B29 chainguard, it must be similar...... On the other hand it could just be the same chainguard with the lower panel added. (I can almost see the join?) It's definitely not a G3 chainguard as it hasn't got the Matchless swoopy curve at the rear. As you say, they were developing and changing things all the time. Ron

Lex that grainy picture is one of the only pictures we have of that side of the bike and that is one of the GPO bikes. The parts list for the RN bikes quotes the chaingaurd as number 65-7710. The 1940 civy parts list shows 65-7700 which was fitted to the model B29......Which is the chainguard I have. ......Who knows what it really looked like? Ron

Ah Rik! I hadn't thought of the riding position. Although the rear sets seemed fine enough for many thousands of M20's. Cheers Ron

I've calculated that the brake pedal is 1 1/2" longer than a standard WM20 pedal. It seems odd to me that they made shorter foot rests by 1 1/2" and then had to produce a longer brake pedal by the same amount. I wonder how much weight that saved? Ron

Morning Adrian. Now I look at the pictures in Jan's French artical. I see they show the M20 and also the Norton 16H. They were obviously converting bikes that were left over from the war. A friend of mine has a WW2 Ariel W/NG with swinging arm conversion. I need to take a closer look at it to see if it's a British or other conversion. Ron

An interesting subject. Side valve engines were also modified with the Gruppo Velox kit (BSA M20's for instance.) After the Triumph factory was bombed in 1940, temporary works were set up at Cape Warwick until the new permanent site at Meriden was open in 1942. I haven't as yet seen an exact date to say when production contracts commenced at Meriden though? Here's my own 3HW from 1944. Not to mince words! The canvas pad at the rear of the Vokes tank top air filter is known as a "B*llock Protector"..... Ron😖

I've learnt how to install an adblocker and it's working fine at the moment. I think I have it on 7 days free trial but I'm told there are free adblockers to be had. Ron

I'm a Ludite Richard. Do I just google Adbloker and then follow the simple instructions?? Cheers Ron

Yes I tried the "click on theme and default" as suggested by Jan. It reduced the adds for the first 3 or 4 times, but doesn't work anymore for me. Ron

I’ve done this on my Mac and on my iPhone, works a treat! 👍 It worked for the first few times for me Jan. But the pop ups took over again. Ron

I'll hang in there Jack. Ron🙂

I've fitted new Surflex plates but left the old corks in the chainwheel as they look in excellent condition. I can but try. Fitting a 3 spring Triumph clutch is the best option, but would require some special machining as the clutch sleeve is unique so would have to be made bespoke for a Triumph clutch. Ian explained what to do and it sounds very complicated....and expensive. ....It's something to think about for the future if the 6 spring clutch is no good! Ron

Far fewer people are responding to my restoration thread in "motorcycles". What with FB and now these adds popping up all over the screen. I fear this is another dying forum. Very sad! Ron

I've acquired 6 clutches for this project to pick the best of everything. However there are variations and it's taken me a while to deduce the correct parts. The mainshaft nut is much slimmer than on all the other bikes and turns out to have the same part number as a 50's C12 The shaft thread is 5/8" x 20tpi. No problem! (I thought) As Drags sell these. But the first one came and no way would screw onto the shaft. So I sent it back and they sent me another one....Same thing! So I had to take it to an engineer who has a 5/8" x 20 tap. Quite a lot of metal came out as he cleaned it up, so God knows what size their engineer was working to? Also their special Durilium bearing ring for the clutch center wouldn't fit, so that wend back for a refund. I used the original BSA rings with new quality 3/16" balls. Ron

I've now fitted the much thinner civy type tool box. Regarding the exhaust. Darren welded on the bracket to my mark and also the front silencer clamp. I've just drilled and shortened the bracket and it went on without any hassle, and my kickstart clears the silencer by 1/2"(the SS exhaust just needs to be lightly grit blasted now) This got me thinking about the WD toolbox again. Since the WM20 toolbox is clearly much wider than the silencer.....and also that the part number for the WB30 toolbox neither matches the WM20 or the civy box. I wonder if they made a slimmer version of the WM20 box? Maybe 1/2" narrower? It's something for me to think of doing if I want to refit my WM20 box as it definitely can't be used as it is. Ron

Same for me. Adverts slide about and then a pop up right in the middle of the screen when I try to look at a post. Ron