Ron

Geoff they left the factory with matching frame and engine. Your engine falls outside the known batch of frame /engine numbers ie 11001-12200. However your engine has the WD inspectors stamp which means it is genuine and could confirm my reasoning that there were more than records show. The best thing is to contact the archivist of the VOC who has the factory records. I'll PM you his contact information in the morning. Regards Ron

PPS. Belay that request about the contract plate. It had slipped my mind that I already have one fitted. Ron

PS. Here is the wiring diagram for the MDD. Altough roghly the same, there is a slight difference to the dynamo wiring. Ron

Yes that is an MDD (Officially known as an MAC (WD) )Only 1200 are recorded but I've feeling some went to Russia??. Frame 11004 is the forth one from the 1200 under contracr C7974 in 1940. Someone has erroniously added that brass contract plate from an MAF. I'd be more than happy to buy it for my MAF, if your were to think of parting with it? .The MAF was the next model which was ordered in 1941 by the WO to more of a military spec, including a cast in sump sheild, panniers and pillion etc. 2000 were ordered, however the order was canceled after just 947. Veloce were set on other war work. Ron

Are you sure it's an MAF Geoff? There are shades of MAC or MDD about it! Even the tank number denotes it as MDD. Regards Ron

Here you are Geoff. Let me know if you need anything else. I never bother with a ready made loom! They are quite simple to do by laying each wire in turn by following the diagram. But I guess "Grove Classics" would have an MAC loom to make any modifications too......Any pictures of your MAF? Ron

Yes I've ran it about 20 times. It sounds very nice. However It's not the easiest bike to start, because of the short kick start and gearing, plus higher compression 400cc, I recon I'm only getting about one spark at the plug per kick. I've learnt that the trick is to open the throttle wide and kick it over 6-10 times with the valve lifter to draw fuel into the cylinder. It would probably get better once it's well run in..... But that won't happen yet as I'm having hip problems and restricted to bikes without a pillion seat to get my leg over...... I'm working on it with the aid of a sports physio and a set of exercises. Hey Ho Getting old!! Ron

completed! Quickly onto the next project for a mate. Ron

The original tyre size is 325-19. The Ensign universal has a nice block pattern. But for many years I've been more than happy with 350-19 Mitas H-02's on my WD/CO and WD/G. https://www.vintagetyres.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=325+19 https://www.vintagetyres.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=350+19 Ron

Hello Rob At least one of my Rubber saddles came from the late John Budgen. But I know who has the last of his stock of rubber saddles. PM me for details. Ron

That is the civilian list, but my 5SW parts list shows the same part number for the dip switch. Which is the Lucas 31482 that both Rik and I have shown. My combined 5SW and 3SW instruction book along with my 3SW maintenance manual must have been printed for the later fitment of black out masks. The next jumble or bike shop I go to, I'll take a pice of 1" tube to test one of those switches before I pay out over £20 each. Ron

OK I don't know the legal requirements over there. Here we have "historic" status, with no MOT and free tax. Even so we would have had "Grandfather" rights, which often allowed things that wouldn't apply to a modern vehicle. Ron

I see no point in that Pawel. There is not much difference between low or high beam on these and it dosen't alter the fact that the dip switch as an original ornament is missing. I'd just wire it as per the diagram and fit a dip switch at a later date if you find one.......Do you intend to do night time riding? I never do if I can help it. I fit an LED pilot light bulb and use that for day time riding. Ron

That line drawing shows no dip switch. Is it from the instruction book that covers both models (3SW & 5SW)? That book is not dated and was probably produced after 1940 by which time not many more 3SW's were produced. I'm going to keep my eyes open for some correct 1" dip switches (Without much hope). For now I'll just leave them as they are. Ron

The originals might have been universal but I don't think the repros are. I'll have to try one. They are the Lucas 31482. Switches > Dip Switches - Lucas 31482 Dip Switch - Auto Electric Supplies Website Ron

No date Rik. Looking for it is when I read the B4 small print with a spy glass. It looks like I need them on both mine then? Which is good fun finding 1" switches!! Ron

But these bikes have dip switches. Then other pictures are without them. The "dimmer" switch is listed in my 5SW parts list. Hmmm! Possibly deleted with BO hoods? Will look at my 3SW list tomorrow. Ron

However here is the diagram and text explaining about the headlamp bulb from my 1940 3SW and 5SW maintenance manual. It must be a generic diagram as it mentions the Norton Big 4 sidecar in the small print at the bottom. Ron

Yes rubber grips for our SW's. You mean lower chain guard. Yes that looks ok. Ron

Well done Pawel. He's the guy who makes the decent quality repro canvas grips. Ron

I've just discovered that the carb slide was stuck halfway up the carb. It looks like I overtightened the Burgess air filter which slightly distorted the carb body. It went first kick after I sorted the filter out. 😖 My Age related Reg number came through from DVLA yesterday, so I can stencil the number on today. Ron PS. Later that day!!

I've been quiet for a while as changing the head and going over some other same stuff seemed pointless posting over again. I've had the bike running over the last 3 days (about 20 times) The engine sounds nice with no leaks apart from spits from the timing side breather, and all four gears are working. However, these have a short kick start and the gearing is such that you barely get one revolution of the flywheels per kick, and therefore is a bastard to start. Yesterday I swapped my freshly restore mag for another restored mag as it seemed to spark at a lower speed. But today I've run out of puff trying to start it. I’ve been talking to Brett in New Zealand who has several similar bikes and has experienced the same problem and gets his mags rewound to a better than Lucas spec with thinner wire (Therefore more windings) Can anyone comment about any mag guy in UK who understands this procedure. Ron

PS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186108024129?hash=item2b54e71541:g:grQAAOSw~QFlHmxL&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8F2JmvpYVEfoz3gPN7oyzv1RbIG2rSH2JTp3Y7AnB6xMY8ag3X%2BAcMcwG4LXsWk3zFtUIDdTqNTvJ0VN8kXd9OJQeYgYXhG96U7fzm9V3BTh4gBB8zNm3bjZHWrDYyoMu8Z3Y2YVrVdCc%2Fs4%2FqlZGnHlMYWEjXwspYTr7rM%2BF8hlOQzK5vffUviD7Pvc%2BchHFb%2F4BFnVUUdM1M3l1eDdO0YYtABsBPJoKbzdmxkH1Fosyobi1652g6tSN7Gf%2BuyXV%2BQeKgmonrP8IedvQVocSA5toKcZ9zoOsRZHvBxHUiawpuKvwKCrXpMgHX2d8Z9p2w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8r71uTgYg Ron

That's what I would do. Ron

Pawel that is an Indian made version of the post war MCR2 regulator. (I've never known one to work for more than a few weeks) You need the shorter MCR1 with frame tube mounts. Jan can make the conversion parts to clamp on frame if you want. There are very good electronic internals on the market that will easily fit in both types http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php Ron