Ron

Where's the picture?  Ron

I don't know if he still has anything left, but there is easy contact details on his website.  

https://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/indey.html

Ron

Hi Steve

I don't recall a saddle like that on any WD bike?  Ron

Yes that will do fine. I did think that it can't be that difficult to mould the rubber part. Ron

Presumably you will acquire one of those metal bases from R&R. So I've concentrated on the  rare rubber part. As a stop gap until one turns up, one could be turned in hardwood or aluminium and painted black. The measurements are near enough for a repro. The five grooves are about 1/8" deep  Ron

As far as I know, the B set antena's are the same with the exception of the ring brush guard fitted to those in a more vunarable positon. I'm getting ready for a weekend away, but I'll try and take some pictures/measurments tomorrow. Ron

A normal 1/2" x 26tpi nut with "reduced hex" will do it.  Ron

Here's an original on my Carrier. Can take close ups and measurements if you want. Ron

I'm sure that Triumph would have returned unissued  brand new WD bikes to the factory for a civilian make over. But I've never heard that they restored old used examples as did RE??  Ron

Yes I forgot about the pump. That means cut and re-weld the bracket. It looks like the top one is the best you have. I can't remember if Jan makes this chainguard or not? I'll ask him. Ron

What do your pump brackets measure?

you could just put a 3/8" spacer under the bracket to save cutting and welding.

Distance L is aprox 5 1/2" on both mine.

However the pump brackets are 15" on my 3SW and 16" on my 5SW.  Considering that my 5SW chainguard is about 3/8" longer than my 3SW. I would suspect that this one is a reproduction? 

What do your pump brackets measure?

PS have you got a 90 link chain? Maybe your wheel should move backwards a bit more?

Ron

Yep me too usually. I still haven't quite got the hang of those Napolionic measurements.

I'm sure you will make it work Pawel

BTW Engineers use mm. Dress makers use cm😆😆

Ron

I just measured two of mine:- along bottom edge from primary case to rear tip:-

3SW = 510mm

5SW = 520mm

Ron

I appreciate all the suggestions and advice from you guys. In the 35 years I've owned it, I've never had such a long winded problem. Especially since I worked as a motor mechanic in the 60's & 70's when plugs and points and simple carbs were an every day occurrence.  Ron🙏

Yes over the weekend a mate came round and we went through everything again. of all simple things, it was the coil. Even though I temporarily fitted a spare one that I had......Which also must be duff. I bought another new one which arrived Saturday and cured the problem. 

Both the previous coils were delivering a spark, but obviously not strong enough. I've restarted the Tilly several times over the weekend and all seems fine now.  Ron🤞

The parts are "Breather Nozzle in sleeve nut, part number NE153A and Diaphragm NE154". These were fitted to the whole range pre war and wartime. But I have no idea where you can obtain them. You might just have to repair it the best you can. The Diaphragm is just a free acting flap valve that opens and closes with the up and down of the piston.

You should already have a crankcase breather. This nozzle allows extra breathing into the primary case.   

Hopefully Prof will translate.   Ron

I don't suppose he bothered? He's not going to ride it and it's too heavy to steal without a Hiab. Ron

The replica armoured 3SW was built by Sean Walsh. He brought it to our Goodwood revival motorcycle field workshop display one year. I literally couldn't lift it off its side stand. But I have got a knackered right elbow. 🥴 

Sean said he did actually ride it once in the quiet road where he lives. Ron

Ah right. It looks like my pedals and Tommy bar are later additions. Cheers Ron

That is exactly like mine. Drilled through the bolt head and slightly tipped up. Adrian says the early ones were welded on.

Is yours a first pattern with the twin saddles tubes?  Ron

AH! I see a slight hump on the shoulders of the fork legs and an inverted "V" on the side of the lugs!

Ron

Ha Ha! Wally. It's one of the first things I tried. Repeated it a few times since. I've convinced myself that I'm losing current from the batteries whilst cranking. I'm wondering if I have a fault with the starter motor although it's spinning as it's always done....Or is there a problem with my brand new Shield batteries??   Ron

Thanks Adrian. I've scratched back a bit more on the number lug and sure enough there is a very faint "R" 

I see what you mean about the pedal boss. Must be a later crank fitted. My Tommy bar is drilled through. 

What does the peak refer to? I'll best compare it to my single tube bike. (which will be for sale now)  Ron

PS, I notice those support tubes on the crank housing, not fitted to the later bikes?