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wdbikemad

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Everything posted by wdbikemad

  1. "The first pattern 'Lucas MCT1 (fag end) had a rubber seal, latter patterns didn't.. Late war they introduced the MCT1A (A=aperture for number plate illumination) There was even a lens cap with a tiny pin hole red lens for extreme black out conditions - Ron" Correct Ron....the first pattern MCT1 had the rubber seal around the lense cap to assist waterproofing, but this was discontinued 1942-43 due to the shortage of rubber...... First (1940-41) pattern lense cap had the tiny "pin hole" aperture in line with the strict blackout regulations then in force, therefore acquiring the term "fag end" lamp...........this was soon replaced (1942-ish) by the larger lense cap as regulations eased but still without the lower aperture to illuminate the number plate, etc..........third pattern came in during 1945, same lense but now with the lower aperture.........the tail lamp body now incorporated the "MCT1A" designation for the complete assembly as supplied, earlier lamp bodies either bearing the "MCT1" designation or nothing at all............... Below is an image of my 1942 W/NG with the 1st pattern lense fitted onto a later body...........swapping/mis-matching of component parts often occured and invariably older stocks were used up first......
  2. Mark, I first saw one of these at Silverman's back in the late-1970's.....at the time you couldn't get DPM clothing via surplus so I believe that Silverman's actually produced these themselves using the old green hoods.........
  3. My sentiments exactly Ron ! But also wholeheartedly agree that it's better to save a bike than let it rot away, and also to do it exactly as you want !!! That's fine by me and everyone's right to do so........ But I always thought that this was a Military vehicles forum, and if you know that it's a civilian bike and choose to repaint it in olive drab then that doesn't make it a military vehicle so not really relevant here........Most people post here for providing or seeking information on military projects that they have done or are working on, and naturally therefore you will invite comment..........sorry, but it wasn't clear that you didn't seek any information or advice so my apologies if I got this wrong...... In a group such as this, there are many, many knowledgeable individuals here and the majority of Group members value that vast pool of information or they simply wouldn't be here.......to refer to knowledgeable comment as "flea police" and being "geeky" is not the kind of remark expected here........ As for me, I wrote the definitive reference book on WD motorcycles and have restored 3 flying flea's over the years.......Ron is equally knowledgeable.....if that makes me a "geek" then I can live with that...........and as for "police", no thanks, I'm retired now having done real policing for 30 years........Steve
  4. Painting it green makes it look "WD" but there is a vast difference between the genuine WD Flea and the civvy version......... Frame.....(different saddle mounts front and rear).........handlebars (different shape)...handlebar stem bolt (different design)....headlight and tail-light (different pattern).......toolbox (different design)......footrest assembly (different design).......headlamp brackets (different length)......engine crankcases (different design)......conrod assembly (narrower).....cylinder barrel (threaded exhaust port)...exhaust pipe and auxiliary silence (different design)......rear sprocket (one more tooth).....engine timing cover (different design)......kickstarter (different design)...carburetter (different type), etc, etc........ Far more complicated to accurately convert a civilian Flea into a WD version compared with a James ML !!!
  5. PM me.......I have a few large examples.......
  6. PM me and we'll discuss further........... Oddly, I'm also in Newbury....!!! Yes, I think that the slot for the woodruff key can be welded up but it's a fiddly job........ When I obtained my WD/RE it had been modified post-war by the fitting of a later Wipac ignition assembly, doubtless to keep it running.....fortunately however, the correct replacement parts came with it so I was able to remove the Wipac items using a BSA Bantam extractor to find the original crank undamaged.........the original Miller ignition system is very hit or miss and parts difficult to find, but I was fortunate enough to have plenty of spares here so that I could rebuild using selective assembly......... Here's a picture of her when acquired.......she had been kept by the WD until the early 1950's then sold off.....she remained in the Norfolk area in use with several owners until the early 1970's........she's since been fully restored.........frame 8083......
  7. Yes, a great help ! 7140 is indeed a WD frame.......this is a first contract bike (contract S.1945) dating from 1943 and would originally have had the narrow crankshaft assembly fitted..... Parts for these are nowadays unobtainable, but you can still source the later (wider) crankpin and conrod which, as a complete assembly, will fit into the WD crankcases and are invisible once installed.....the later assembly is actually marginally stronger so will last..... Where are you located....?
  8. What measurements are you looking for chap ? I may be able to assist......
  9. A warm welcome here Lee ! I've seen a lot of your impressive collection on the IACMC site...!
  10. Kingsley, welcome to the group ! First thing to note is that apart from a few prototypes, there weren't any WD Flea's in 1942.......volume production didn't commence until 1943.....prior to that the RE 125 (Royal Baby) was made for the civilian and export market in small numbers until early 1940......... It is essential to identify your bike as a genuine WD version....the frame number would be useful here and it can be found on the right-hand side of the head-stock stamped vertically.......this should be duplicated on the engine (top of the left-hand crankcase below the carburetter and behind the barrel)......there should also be another individual engine number at the very rearmost point of the top of the left-hand crankcase........ Regarding the frame, the front saddle mounting should be taller and "vertical" on a WD frame, not shorter and "curved" as per the civilian frame.......... A spare crank assembly needs to be sought as a whole item.......this is because the pre-war and WD versions of the Flea use a different (narrower) assembly than the post-war civilian model..........whilst complete crank assemblies are interchangeable, the individual crank components are not ! Steve
  11. Mark, is it just the fibre insulating plate you need ? I have a spare here plus the steel clamping plate......pm me
  12. Ian, if not loose on the shaft then it is possibly the bearing or clutch basket as you mentioned.........I'm sure I have a good used bearing here, plus a NOS clutch basket still in the wartime packing..........I'll have a rummage tomorrow in the workshop....... It's Steve Madden by the way.........
  13. Ian, never had this issue with my 16H.......I also run the clutch dry with modern bonded friction linings and 4 instead of 5.......... As mentioned, I would suspect the clutch bearing or possibly the basket......another possibility would be if it was slack on the shaft....... I'm on the north edge of Newbury so not a million miles away from Abingdon and willing to drop over and have a look......I have a lot of NOS 16H stuff plus decent used spares so substitution of parts may be an idea......? I'm also around most of the week as retired..........
  14. Ron, you're very welcome ! It's always crucial to have an original to take the measurements from as there can be no dispute....... I've done a round trip of 250 miles today to collect a front wheel for my second James ML (once fitted, it's finished).......long journey but worth it for a superb wheel complete with hub assembly, etc.............Mrs M kept me awake for the drive.....!
  15. I have an ex-WD genuine new old stock 8-inch Lucas "Difusa" glass, still in the paper sleeve similar to an old 45rpm record......... For info, it measures 7 & 3/4-inch in diameter...............
  16. There are numerous differences............as Ron has already mentioned, the frame, toolbox, carburetter and cylinder barrel differ from the civvy versions, as do the exhaust pipe and head/tail lights........... But there are numerous other differences too..........these include the crankshaft assembly (narrower on wartime Flea's), the crankcase itself (more "web-like" inside to reduce weight), the kick-start assembly, the footrests and mounts, the handlebars (at a different angle to the civvy version), the fuel tank filler cap, the HT lead assembly, headlight mounting brackets (in length) and in some military production different wheel bearing assemblies (cup and cone, although ball-journal bearings used as well)............ It is a massive task converting a civvy Flea into a wartime replica model.............many parts are near-impossible to find and/or expensive....................
  17. wdbikemad

    Triumph 5SW

    Are the clips the same as the Ariel W/NG type Ron ? If so maybe Draganfly ? Also, Peter Brown is currently looking at the field stand brackets and mounts for his own 5SW so it may be worth emailing him ?
  18. I obtained mine from Russell Motors.........but you could also try Draganfly or Martyn Bratby............
  19. I see Terry and Drew every couple of weeks or so so I can also assist..........
  20. Terry at Metal Magic tries his best at parts........if they aren't entirely correct he then remakes to ensure accuracy..................I loaned him both my original Flea blanking plate, footrests and related items, plus Air Maze filter.............the latter Terry has made copying my original faithfully.........they actually have an improved modern mesh inside the outer original-spec mesh to improve filtration..........in fairness, he is one of the very few, if any, suppliers of Flea and James ML repro items and the one thing I do know is if a part is wrong Terry will strive to correct...........luckily, he has me nowadays to supply original items as patterns therefore accuracy assured....................
  21. Once again, Terry Roberts at Metal Magic makes replicas of the blanking plate for the Miller headlight !!!! Copied from my original..........
  22. Note that the G3 and G3L employed different engine/gearbox plates...........they were basically the same but the G3L type are thinner-gauge steel that the earlier G3 with "light" reinforcing around various strategic points, all part of the original weight-reduction exercise................. As the war progressed however, it is likely that many G3L's when being rebuilt by workshops were fitted with the earlier, heavier G3 plates as basically identical and workshops would usually employ any suitable serviceable parts.......
  23. Richard, lovely restoration there chap ! May I just mention that the Air Filter is incorrect..............rear end should be flat bearing a plate acid-etched with the Villier's Air Maze details...............Terry Robert's at Metal Magic produced a run of decent repro filters copying mine and the name plates are/were available from Arnaud............... HT lead should be black-rubber.............no immobiliser was fitted to the Flea, only the supressor, as the entire lead could be detached to immobilise the bike.................you need 7mm black HT lead, preferably with a copper core.............. Your brake and clutch levers are also incorrect.........Flea originals were much smaller......civvy ones are the same, differing only in the finish...............:-) Not too difficult to find today..............
  24. The badge fitted to my first contract flea is the original and as can be seen here is nickel or chrome plated with green and black enamel.....no sign of white or off-white paint !
  25. Looks like the precursor to the late 1980's/90's synthetic filled bag complete with outer Goretex "Bivi Bag"..............I still use one of these today as a replacement for the venerable '58 Bag that finally gave up the ghost when the zip shattered in Normandy back in 2006........ended up in a convenient French skip...........lol....should also have a compression webbing assembly that compresses the entire thing down................so 3 pieces to be complete.........
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