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wdbikemad

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Everything posted by wdbikemad

  1. Both of my ML's, plus the Flea, have new-old-stock WD cables fitted so these fittings are correct.......!
  2. The Flea used standard-type ferrules.........but the ML on the Brake, clutch and decompressor levers uses a rather strange arrangement......... This is basically an additional ferrule into which the end of the cable outer and the cable ferrule fits.......this extra ferrule has a small "pointy bit" through which the cable passes and this ferrule fits into the small hole in the lever bracket.......it is basically half a spherical ball on very thin metal.......difficult to describe, the photo does a better job.....
  3. Steve, I made front and rear brake rods for one of my ML's.....quite an easy job...... The wheel hubs and brake plates on the ML were made by "The British Hub Co" of Birmingham........If you do an Ebay search under "British Hub" in motorcycle parts suitable brake operating arms often appear...... As for the sprocket, someone was having replicas made.....but anyway, it's another "British Hub" item........Villiers Services MAY be able to help here........?
  4. The photo shows the Flea in it's final production form (with the exception of the number plates) so this is either late-1942 or early-1943........it is known that the Enfield works retained several examples for testing and modification purposes, James with their ML doing similar......
  5. Steve, you are correct in saying they are rare.........I have used a couple of originals in the past but the best thing today is to make up a replica out of suitable black-rubber tubing glued together and slip it on over the HT lead........ It's a really good idea not to add any "obstruction" in the current of the HT lead as this can affect the quality of the spark delivered........best to use the hollowed-out resistor and just an immobiliser false/replica cover.....
  6. I'm proud to say that the Sean Walsh armoured 3SW is fitted with a cylinder head from me.........well, actually it was originally a door-stop for my workshop door that Sean spotted on a visit to my place....!
  7. I note your air cleaner is not quite the correct one Steve.....Terry or Drew at "Metal Magic" made some replica examples last year that come complete with the proper printed Villiers plate. They were copied from a new-old-stock original I had....They may still have some...01189 731631.....
  8. The post-war stand was part number ML64ASS whereas the wartime was ML15ASS............ The post-war springs were part number ML643B whereas the wartime were ML643........... The post-war springs were indeed probably slightly longer although to what extent I don't know. The key thing with the springs is to have them "springy" enough for the stand to automatically flip-up and then largely stay in place once retracted.....
  9. I was wondering when you'd spot that Lex........Well done !!!
  10. Looking nice Steve ! Don't forget to fit that small pair of plates either side of the bottom engine-to-frame bolt to attach the stand springs to !
  11. Decent 9D cylinder heads are getting hard to find......worth picking them up when you see them, even with broken fins..... Most post-war 9D heads have a screwed plug in the 14mm decompressor hole as this item wasn't fitted to civilian models. Of course, you can remove this but all the heads I've had in the past with the plug present required heat of volcanic proportions to budge ! As Ron noted, any decent engineering shop should be able to put in an 18mm metric insert.....
  12. That's interesting Ron. I'm only going by what's seen in the bulk of period images, parts lists and surviving bikes today. I'm sure you're right though and supplies of springs of whatever shape were used as available.......
  13. PS - the saddle springs on both the Flea and the ML are normally 4" long and "Barrel" shaped.........
  14. Steve, your saddle and cover appear to be correct for both the Flea and the James....... The clue with the Mansfield saddle cover is the pair of front securing tab rivets that are placed high away from the lower edge of the saddle cover to fit the frame "step" at the front.......it may well be worth getting the missing rear-edge strip replaced if you can, either by a saddler or done at home using a strong adhesive and clamps..... My Flea and both ML's have the original covers still in place....they're a bit scruffy but I like the wear and look of them ! Slight scuffing can be touched up with a suitable paint..... You could also look at having your original cover copied by R K Leighton (on line) in the Midlands....... Note that the original covers had a small brass nameplate on the back strip riveted on, infilled with black enamel.......it states "Mansfield" with "Made in England" beneath.........you can't get hold of these now even as copies but it is worth looking at Ebay, etc, for a suitable Mansfield-make bicycle saddle that may carry the same nameplate........!!!
  15. Nathan, they were only fitted to early WD M20's with the rubber-mounted handlebars and it was designed to prevent the steering damper knob loosening once adjusted correctly.........I've got a NOS one still in KG No.3 paint....no use to me as I no longer have BSA's......
  16. I'm assuming that the white painted marks are a WD inspection mark, either applied at the Lucas factory or more likely at an Army Ordnance stores depot.....maybe the white dot with the blue mark is a "focus compliant" or "focussed" mark following testing ? Pure speculation though....... Steve, those little decompressor levers are out there ! I hunted for one for over two years and then like busses three came along at once ! Few actually realise what they are and I'd recommend doing various Ebay searches using words like "vintage", "lever", "decompressor", "valve lifter", "autocycle", "handlebar lever", etc, etc...........and when things get back to normal the usual autojumble trawling may well produce results..........
  17. That's looking to be a really nice restoration so far Steve ! I particularly like the way that you've blended the NOS headlamp assembly in with the rest of the bike......I had one of these on one of my ML's but I decided to repaint it in SCC.No.2 brown to match the bike but I did mask-off the stores lettering area painted onto the shell's exterior and then matt-lacquer over it just to preserve a bit of history.......
  18. I think you may be spot-on there Steve ! I've seen a genuine WD ML frame within the last few hundred numbers of (non cancelled) military production so I suspect the stand design was revised at some point late in the day.....this would also include the fitting of the stand clip which was present on the frame I examined.......proof may lie in later WD parts/spares books but to date, I haven't encountered any other than for the first contract....... The original WD design was not really up to the job of repeated kick-starting whilst on the stand.......the number of bent or repaired WD stands that I've seen would bear this out....!
  19. Steve, no major concerns over the colour you've found......... Late ML's were finished in British Olive Drab and yours being a late-one/early post war was likely finished in this scheme even if a civilian colour scheme (usually black or maroon) was the applied over the military base coat......this would also apply to component parts supplied as spares and existing stock at the factory....... As you're using an earlier frame now, your correct colour for that and the bike would be SCC No.2 brown if going for 1943........
  20. Steve, Ron is spot-on as usual about the stand.....the WD centre stand was not as durable as originally designed. Repeated heavy use of the kick-starter with the bike on the stand can actually bend the item and/or cause the legs/feet to spread (I've been there !).....the stand was lightly re-designed for post-war civilian production by extending the feet and lowering the bottom cross-bar to help prevent the stand from spreading.....post-war civilian ML's weren't fitted with a decompressor so the risk of damaging the early pattern stand through kick-starting was highly likely...... Your gear-knob is correct......these were Wooden, originally stained black and lacquered ....... Ron is also correct about the handlebar levers.....
  21. Dave, congrats on digging out your ML ! As Ron has commented, your ML would appear to be an early post-war civilian example, possibly either 1946 or 1947 ? Do you have a V5 document for it ? The number on the flat-"plate" section at the top of the gearbox cover "539/416" is a post-war Villiers engine identification number....these didn't feature on wartime engines as the "AAA" number is the actual engine number of yours which is either pre-war civilian (circa 1939-41) or very early WD. Unfortunately records of Villiers 9D engine numbers do not appear to have been retained but it is thought that they were fitted to WD James ML's at random without any particular sequence. The suffix "A" after the engine number was a mark applied by Villiers to signify a post-1939 9D engine with the revised crankcase sealing method (the "gland" seal on the driving side), the "A" signifying "amended"...... I suspect that your ML is a post-war civilian example that has been fitted at some point in the past with an exchange or replacement engine unit that may or may not be WD.....the gearbox cover would not be related to the engine and is likely also a replacement part..... Some of the early civilian production ML's used up existing stock of WD parts. These included the cylindrical tool box, the WD DU42 headlight, handlebars and folding footrests. Any combination of these parts may be encountered and may reflect a post-war dealer rebuild or refurbishment........ Compared to the WD/RE Flea, it is not too difficult to construct a replica WD machine from a civilian model. Most of the WD-specific parts are available as reproductions or existing parts can be adapted. However, this is clearly a personal choice ! Please post some images on here as always of interest !
  22. Nathan, do you have this part ? It's the early K/WM20 steering damper locking device......
  23. Steve, good work so far ! With the forks, they're easy enough to assemble into the frame whilst on the workbench....in fact, you can build them up once the headstock is in position. Things to bear in mind: make sure all threads are clean and working as it makes the job so much easier; don't bother finely adjusting the steering head/head-stock until the bike is sitting on it's wheels, same with the fork links; also, you may find progress easier if you assemble the two frame portions and then fit the stand/footrest/rear brake assemblies as this provides a decent platform to work from ! Peter Miller's book on the ML is a very good reference. Like Ron, I know Peter well and his son Richard. I see you have the ML workshop manual - if you haven't already, obtain the WD parts list as well as it details every last washer !
  24. Spot on Ron ! Both the Flea and the ML's rear wheel is easily removed with everything in place, although the former can be a bit more fiddly due to the longer rear mudguard...... It's always surprised me that the ML wasn't specified/fitted with a rear carrier whereas the Flea was.........looking at various period images of ML's in service, notably following the D-day landings, it seems that some were certainly fitted with improvised bags on the rear.......
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