andyroo

Sent you a PM.

Andrew Jeffery.

Hi, I made my own mould to re-rubber CVRT wheels. There are companies out there that will re-rubber them without a mould. But bear in mind each pair of wheels on the same hub needs to be the same diameter.

I can get an upto date price for you if interested. Just send me a PM.

I had a similar problem with my MK6 about 10 years ago.
Ran great on the flat achieving 45mph quite easily.
However any hills and it was change down 1 or quite often 2
gears.
Took me weeks to find the problem. Turned out to be the
fuel pipe from the tank to the filter had rusted and a few
very small pin prick holes were letting in air.
Replaced the steel pipe with copper and all has been well ever since.

Can anyone advise me on the procedure for bleeding Saracen brakes, i presume there is an order for bleeding. Also, is it the case that with the engine running you would just depress the brake pedal prior to opening a bleed nipple, i.e. No need to pump the brakes?

 

thanks

Nic

Hi Nic,

Bleeding Saracen / Saladin brakes is easy. Make sure the hydraulic tank is full, have a large container for the oil you bleed off, the correct spanner and around 2 foot of rubber pipe to fit on the bleednipples. With the engine running, place a suitable length of wood between the brake peddle and the steering cross shaft guard so that the brakes are on but not fully on. All you have to do is go round each wheel station. I always start with the front right then front left, middle left the middle right. I go around twice. If the hydraulic oil that comes out is clean, let it settle to get the air bubbles out, filter it though a coffee filter and its good to reuse.

Hope that helps,

Andy.

Hi,

Attached photos of the bracket with Bren gun in position. Unfortunately after spending several hours fitting mine in, I found a few issues. 1, the bracket that fits on the prop shaft cover needs at least a 1" spacer under it. 2, the butt of the Bren needs a 3/4" bit of wood under it to lift it up so the catch that holds the magazine dose not get damaged and 3, the biggest problem I have is you can select reverse with a small amount of damage to your thumb but you will almost dislocate your thumb when selecting forward. So although I've left the bracket in I dont use it.

Andy.

Hi,

Sorry to hear your problems with your Ferret. I had a very similar problem with my Saladin.

I replaced all the parts as I needed them, but it would have been cheaper to replace the bevel box

and wheel station.

Good look.

Andy.

I've owned a Saracen and Saladin for 24 and 23 years respectively.

The Saracen accumulators I check once a year as they don't lose all pressure.

I don’t have a test gauge, so I empty them and recharge them.

The Saladin however I have to recharge 2 of the accumulators every 4 months or so.

They are empty after 6 months. I've replaced the seals in both, but they still leek.

I made up my own connections, had a high pressure pipe made and bought a high

pressure double acting regulator. I use argon to fill since I use that at work.

The click sound is the pressure relief valve in the power valve working correctly

keeping the hydraulic system up to pressure. With no accumulator pressure, you still

have hydraulic pressure. However when braking, steering or both you very quickly lose

the correct working pressure in the hydraulic system. Try maneuvering with no accumulator pressure

at low speed and with accumulator pressure. You will notice a massive difference.

Basically the hydraulic pump can only just supply sufficient oil flow/pressure for normal use.

If you steer around a roundabout and brake, the accumulators will keep the pressure up for you.

With no air in the accumulators you may notice that the hydraulic tank is low on oil, that’s because more than normal

is in the accumulators.

You should only test/fill the accumulators when there is NO hydraulic pressure. I think

the working pressure is around 1250 PSI (don't quote me on that) If the hydraulic

side is at that pressure, so is the air side!

Hope the above is helpfull.

Andy

Timbo ,

I have had the same problem with my Saladin. 3 years ago I had two sets of seals made which I fitted to both center wheel stations. To date they have not leaked. The rubber seals seem to last two years at best. On some of the wheel stations (not sure which) you have to disconnect the handbrake so as to get the cable out of the way. The steering linkage should not be a problem.

It takes me around two hours to change a pair of cylinders with the wheel on and less than an hour with the wheel off.

After 24 years I've had lots of practice!!

Andy

Will fit a Saladin as well. Now made two of these over the last couple of years.

Andy.

I'm wondering how to fit the long torsion bar rubber sleeve (the one between the wheel station and the torsion bar adjuster). It obviously needs to be stretched over the serrated end but it is quite a stretch and I'm not sure if there is an easy way so I'm hoping someone has done lots of these and can give me a few pointers. In particular, should I heat/boil it first; or plaster vaseline on the shaft and pull it on with multi grips; or somehow pre stretch it; or..?

 

(Interestingly, I can't see that this sleeve is actually doing much, since that section of the torsion bar is isolated from the oily bits, however I'm keen to put it on regardless).

Thanks

James

James,

I did 2 of the sleeves a few years ago on my Saladin. The sleeve protects the torsion bar from corosion.

The two photos should be self explanatory. Pleanty of red rubber grease will also help.

Andy.

Plenty of switches on ebay - such for SPB400

Andy

Richard,

Your RB44 is selectable between 2 and 4 wheel drive. In 2 wheel drive its quite safe on a rolling road. Mine has had 4 MOT's with no problems. Hope this helps.

Andy

Nice toy Daz and welcome.

Andy

James,

Its some years since I had my Saladin bevel box to bits. Have you removed the oil drain plug from underneath ? This may be the cause of your frustration. Can't think of anything else that would prevent removal.

Andy

Drilling the armour is quite easy with standard HSS drill. However, use speeds and feeds

for drilling titainium with would be arround 2/3's to 3/4 slower than driling mild steel.

A carbide drill would be better if your drilling more than a few holes. However if it brakes though and snatches,

the drill will most likely brake.

As your replacing broken studs, you could try the method I used on my Saladin. I bought stainless

5/16 unf bolts. Put the threaded end in the lathe chuck and faced the head down to arround 3/32" thick.

A friend who is good with a tig welder then welded them in place. No filler wire needed as the bolt

head did this job. There must have been twenty or so broken studs I did this for 12 years or so ago. There still

holding the running bords fine and no rusty studs or nuts next time anything needs removing.

Andy

Andy that's an interesting application for the mod. But surely your water detecting chain is just the earthing chain that should be trailing on the ground before some of it snapped off?

"

Clive,

The position of the bracket, on the side of the hull between the front and center wheel would not be a good place for a chain

running along the road. First corner and the chain could be under the center wheel.

The Saracen hull shocker had the chain dangling from under the hull and in the center of the vhieacal.

Also, although the unit in question gives a HT voltage, its one I can touch so is less than one required for a spark plug.

Another question is why would it need to buzz if its for a hull shocker? In fact, it doesn't look to me in any way like a coil

for use in an ignition system.

Having taken my Saladin in some deep water (approx 24" deep) I know it works. When switched on, it

buzzes when the chain contacts water.

Andy

Hi,

I have one in my Mk6 Saracen and also Saladin. It is NOT, I repeat not for giving electric shocks.

It dose give out a high voltage though. Its conected via a HT cable though the hull to a chain on a

bracket. When wading, it sounds a buzzer when you get to the maximum depth you can go without preparing the

vehicle when the water touches the chain. I've tested mine on the Saladin and can confirm it works.

Photo of the bracket and chain. The chain is suspended from a pin that's mounted in a rubber bush to insulate it from the hull.

Andy

Here is one for sale on evil bay :-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraclamp-Swivel-Vice-Work-Holding-Spencer-Franklin-Wood-Carving-Stand-/111236580598?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item19e63784f6

Gives you a better idea as to what its for and dose.

Andy

 

Electronic ignition is very worth while on the B series even if the cost is a bit high up front , it will save time and money in the long term.

You will no longer need to set the ignition timing again.

I can second the above comment, having fitted the Jolly units to my Ferret, Saladin and Saracen. Though I had problems with the Saracen, it turned out that I'd wired up the coil the wrong way. (Presumably from having to use a mirror and work upside down!!) Since correcting the wiring the Saracen has work well since.

Andy

These look very nice manfactured in Stainless Steel! What grade was used?

No idea Montie. I had them made by a manufacture of stainless exhausts in Nottingham around 10 years ago.

The company no longer exist.

Andy

Saracen exhaust at top photo, Saladin bottom photo.

Andy.

I'm removing the shock absorbers and everything is pretty stuck, so I've made an "extractor" for the bottom shafts, and the aim is to just pull those shafts out. However while the parts pictures suggest that the shafts will just slide out, it's not entirely clear, so...

Can someone reassure me that the bottom shafts do just pull out, and that they aren't screwed in? Will need a fair bit of pressure to pull them out and I'd hate to strip a thread I wasn't aware of!

Thanks, James

James,

There should be a tapperd bolt that stops the shaft from rotating. This is screwed in on the suspension arm, it needs removing first.

However, the shafts are not man enough for the job they are doing and so bend!! ALso, the clearance between the shaft and the bush is quite tight, so if the last owner neaver put any oil though it you will be trying to move two dry parts. Good luck. I've had experiance of removing same on my Saladin

Andy.

Cylinder head no removed

Mmmm, a familiare sight for me. I've had my Saracen head of 3 times now.

Is there a reason why you have taken the water pump off?

Andy.

Was just talking to another Saracen owner and he said that in recent years he was using grease rather than oil in the suspension; reason being that the oil leaked out badly.

 

He believes that the grease is lubricating the suspension, it is clearly used in the Ferret suspension quite satisfactorily is there a good​ why it can't be used in the Saracen

I've been useing K4000EP Semi-fluid Grease from Morris lubricants now for 10 plus years. Neaver had a problem and it gets to where it needs to be and dosen't dribble out. Use it on my Ferret, Saladin and Saracen. I have a 25 KG tub with a pump fitted to it. One person puts the pipe on the grease nipple and the other dose 2 or 3 strokes with the pump. Can do a Saracen in 20 mins and a Ferret, with all those grease nipples in 15 minutes.

The mount is the same as I have in my Saracen, its for a GPMG.

Can't help regarding the blue lights.

Andy.