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matchlesswdg3

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Posts posted by matchlesswdg3

  1. The received wisdom is that Gordon's advice is about the best you can do, short of replacing panels, but you are only slowing the process.  I quote from another of the afflicted! ......."Problem exists in all areas where the ally connects with steel (e.g. door skins and door frame). The ONLY solution is to take everything apart, prime or Hammerite all steel, and then replace affected ally with new panels. Good luck pal !"

  2. And they just keep coming!  I It seems every Light weight coming up for sale lives at least 400 miles from me, then THIS one appears locally.  I THINK I might give it a miss though as it is a bit too lightweight for me.  "Needs a new chassis and bulkhead", and a gear lever!  Lovely photo of the dashboard - the final drive to the "barn" must have been exciting for the passenger judging by the condition of the footwell - actually, there isn't one.  Its a late model as well which seems to bear out the opinion that these were made out of reject steel from the Alfasud factory!s-l1600-1.thumb.jpg.03928aaf1289e9eca5467abbc2e83e91.jpgs-l1600.thumb.jpg.c6775b8ca5ee17971adb9c230d6972d2.jpg

  3. Richard, I am after Landie, but to use for carrying stuff, really and it would be a waste to strip out what is left of the gear.....and I don't fancy having yet more stuff to store!  Hope someone buys it to put back as was, though.

    On drain holes in electronic components, I was always under the impression that the little hole in my magneto points cover on my Matchless WD3L (and on most WW2 WD bikes) was a drain hole and should face downward.  Not so; it is to allow corrosive gases from the arcing to dissipate, and it should face UP!  (I am NOT at all suggesting Clive is wrong, rather its easy to make erroneous assumptions!).

  4. I am looking for a sound on-the-road military Land Rover and with so much junk and overpriced walts out there, I would prefer to buy from someone who has actually loved and used it!  Really my only qualifications are NOT with a NA diesel and with a preference for a "90", though a good 110 not ruled out.  Series, Lightweight, Defender, Wolf all acceptable as long as its a good runner as it will be used daily.

  5. Don't know what the reserve is of course, but going rate for one of these, private sale, is around the £6 to £7k mark for a good one.  I am not sure of the finer points on the G3 so cannot tell if its 100%.  But even if it isn't it could be a good buy.  I would want to check out how the restoration was done - on a complete and original bike or did it require parts and if so what were these bits - genuine or repro?  For example, if for some reason the bloke used repro' Indian-made girder forks, that is a disaster and try and find a useable set of original ones!  I have posed a query as to how good this one is on the BSA M20 site which is populated by some very knowledgeable folk so will be interesting to see what they come up with.  If you are interested in the bike I suggest you give the bloke a ring.  At present, viewing is about to become off-limits, I guess.  I had one of these, panel tank version and they are good  looking bikes and actually faster in a straight line on a road than the G3L.

  6. I bought a fairly inexpensive cabled electric one which does not get a great deal of use, but it saves a LOT of bother and fuss on odd occasions.   One of those tools that now and again, you just cannot be without, unless you really do like hours of fiddling. I guess if you are planning on extensive use then it may pay to spend much more.

     

  7. I THINK the camper-type covers you can buy are breathable - seem to be multi-layer and I never had a problem with condensation between the cover and panels.  But I had thought at one stage of trying one of those Nissen-style pop-up garages, but I don't really have the room and not sure how durable these things are.

  8. One of the bugbears of our obsession is finding somewhere to park/store our MVs and with Winter fast approaching, the potential problem may be pressing.  It's also an issue that tends to put people off owning anything bigger than a Jeep or a Land Rover (hence the prices of those common items, cf much more interesting but larger beasties!).  Now some kit really IS fragile and deserves at least dry airy roofed storage, but IMHO most stuff was built to be stored outdoors for goodness sake and with some preparation and care it is perfectly possible to park up the love of your life on outdoors hard standing, knowing it is going to be fit for use come the better weather.  OK - its nice to have storage you can conveniently drive into and out of, but life is not perfect, alas.  My driveway has seen several MVs living on it quite happily, the secret being to use a decent tough waterproof cover that is well tethered and not going to blow around and chafe.  A tailor-made cover for a camper is a perfect fit for a Bedford MW, for example but a couple of good quality plastic tarps work fine.  Over the really damp and cold weather, I use electric greenhouse heaters placed inside the cab and that keeps internal condensation at bay.  Plenty of air allowed to get in round the chassis and prior to storage, everything susceptible to rust gets a wipe over with ACF50.  Mind you, some neighbours, for some strange reason, may not view your object of beauty and desire the same way you do............!  

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  9. I have a heavy duty "ultimate" car cover for my old Austin Seven from these people and it is really good.  VERY well made indeed and has been totally weatherproof with tie down straps, etc.  Soft too.  The Seven is parked on the drive so the cover needed to be good.  I could not find one tailored specifically for your Jeep but I would be surprised if they couldn't help you.  Likely cost you £150 plus but it should last years and is way way better than other types.  You gets what you pays for. https://www.classicadditions.com/en-GB/outdoor-car-covers/ultimate-outdoor-car-cover/prod_10077

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