matchlesswdg3

Looks like a good solution for the floor which is heavy gauge alloy like yours.  Thanks!

"I avoided Exmoor Trim because of their reviews.".  Yes, I am looking at replacing an Exmoor tilt on my Lightweight which is actually in pretty good nick and probably not very old but it is a poor fit in the places where it needs to be a good fit!  The mention of All Wheel Trim covers therefore grabbed my attention as people seem to be satisfied with the quality and fit and apparent allowance made in the cut for some shrinkage.  Not sure how price compares with UC, but I imagine they are similar.

The tub floor and its underpinnings are pretty good, if riddled with holes and it even has most of its original strakes, but thats an interesting link - thanks!

Hmmm, Laurence.....I am not too fussy, but with all the patches it would need, it might look a bit like this!  Various Landy forums suggest TIG welding works and is the "non-bodge" option....but I do not have a TIG welder and that seems a lot of work (a lot of holes!).  I am going to give JB Weld Steelstik putty a try......it says this is the sort of job its good for and I have used JB Weld to repair all kinds of tricky stuff when stuck out on the road.  We shall see, but any more suggestions welcome.

My Lightweight is plagued by (around 3-8mm) holes drilled in the alloy panels - mainly in the tub floor but it looks like a previous owner decided that he would make the Lightweight lightweight!  And/or he got a new Black & Decker for Xmas.  Question:  what is the best way to fill them before painting over?  My inclination would be to use a patch of glass fibre mat on the rear and fill from the seen side.  "Obvious" solution is to weld them - expensive!  Difficult?  The panels are otherwise straight so I don't want to replace them.

Undercover Covers seems to get good reviews for their tilts, but I have just come across this alternative supplier based in Oxfordshire who has had good feedback.  Might be useful as I understand Undercover Covers has had problems keeping up with the demand and/or staffing?  https://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/homepage.html#Homepage

IJM Restorations wired in the blackout lights front and back on my WC54 as indicators, but that was part of rewiring.  Looks good though and presumably you can do the same as a standalone circuit.

I wonder what the DVLA records THIS as?!! [actually, only as a green Ford....disappointing!]

Note - rear wheel has obviously been shot out at some stage - by one of those BMW Focke-Wulfs?

On Facebook marketplace.  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1910166439131950/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aedcb1b66-9add-4526-9d12-7ada930d9f2f

This is what DVLA says and looking at it closely, I guess the key phrase is: "......to change the way the vehicle works."  I just wondered if any of you had actual experience of this situation.  As you say, how would anyone know if a like for like replacement was made.  I guess the only difference to the way a military Land Rover would work when it has a new chassis is that you could not track it from the trail of rust and lumps of bitumastic underseal?

"Vehicles that do not need an MOT

You do not need to get an MOT if:

• the vehicle was built or first registered more than 40 years ago
• no ‘substantial changes’ have been made to the vehicle in the last 30 years, for example replacing the chassis, body, axles or engine to change the way the vehicle works

If you’re not sure if there have been any substantial changes you can:

• read the full guidance on MOT exemptions for historic vehicles
• speak to a historic vehicle expert

Vehicles exempt from vehicle tax

If your vehicle was built before 1 January 1981, you can stop paying vehicle tax from 1 April 2021.

No, if its had a major change, like change of engine or chassis, it will need an annual MoT even if its over 40 years old.  Thats as per DVLA notes, but its not specific on whether such a change affects eligibility for nil tax. 

I would be grateful if someone could confirm my understanding in the case of a Land Rover that IS over 40 years old (as per stated date of manufacture on V5c) but has had a new chassis some 6 years ago.  I think it IS eligible for Historic Vehicle status and therefore zero tax, but needs an annual MoT.  Correct?  Thanks!

Richard, the cab is fitted as standard WC54 ambulance and the load area is stripped out - as was done by BP technicians, adding just a radio table behind the cab seats.  Everything was free standing and I have the correct radios and ancillary gear (these are all special equipment used by Bletchley Park), including 30' aerial and 'Tiny Tim' battery charger.  As part of the resto', the damaged load area lining was stripped out together with the cardboard insulation and replaced with modern insulation sheet and covered with thin marine ply so that it looks like the original but is more durable.  This is the inside part way through the work. The equipment and layout is as per the descriptions provided by the actual Royal Signals operators concerned.

I have a Dodge WC54 that is a fresh nuts and bolts, body off, complete professional restoration.  This has been completed as a Bletchley Park Special Communications Unit vehicle as deployed by BP to handle "Ultra" intelligence, manned by British military personnel and attached to General Patton's Army in Normandy and on to Germany.  Dodges were used to blend in and similar units were attached to Montgomery's outfit, using British trucks.  The truck and equipment is all as per detailed published descriptions and as shown in a display board in the garage at Bletchley, although they do not have a vehicle.  Which is why this one was due to be exhibited there through 2020 as part of their D-Day exhibition; all fallen through due to COVID.  It has a V5c, runs and drives although will need commissioning as it has only done a couple of miles before being stored away.  Basically looks like a new truck and has been gone through mechanically, bodywork, rewired, rebuilt engine, brakes, etc, etc.  I have a full photo record of the restoration.  At this stage I am just sounding out interest but if I can find a good home, ideally with someone who will carry on this unique project, then I will sell at a sensible price.  PM me if interested.

Yes, thanks, John.  As there are plenty of similar out there, no point in taking on work that can be avoided!

Its not my L/R so this is the best I can do and the owner has added some steps which obscures the view but I think you can see lacy corrosion in the X member all the way across.

No, it does not look like a cover and the corrosion is noted in the MoT so would likely fail its next one if a tower is fitted.

Hi, Alan (gimme that Lightweight back, you swine!!!).  I was actually contacted by the owner of that Lightweight a month ago and at that stage he wanted £11.5k so that has come down a lot!  I will check it out.  Thanks.  I will PM you re 110s.

I am looking at buying a 1991 Defender 110 (Tithonus) which is in pretty good nick apart from a rotten rear cross member.  Can anyone give me a guide to cost of replacing this by a professional?  Its for purposes of negotiating the price at this stage.  Having looked at a couple of online videos it seems as if the cross member can be replaced with the body in-situ which if true will make it a cheaper exercise of course!  Thanks in advance!

Yes, saw that one, Ruxy.   Has lots of stuff included I do not need/want!   But I have tried to contact by phone and email and like a lot of sellers who advertise, they seem very uncommunicative!  

Thanks, Ruxy - will check it out.  But still on the look out for a good runner.

Thanks, Ruxy, but no time or space to do a restoration - been there, done that!  I am looking for something thats ready to go although if a bit of tic is needed, thats OK.  

I am looking for a good Lightweight L/R (12V or 24V) or ex-MoD SWB (Petrol Series or TDi Defender preferred) in original condition and with sound chassis and bulkhead.  I am really looking for one that has been well looked after and needs a good home.  If you have one to sell, or know of a good one for sale, please let me know.  I sold my last one - I miss it!!  Thanks!

Yes, Chris - I get that as well and in those cases,  I have a really cheap dumb charger (that just charges) that I use to get some charge in sufficient for the CTEK to take over.

I seem to recall that folk use the liquid sealant/waterproofer that you use for brick walls on canvas tilts for trucks and L/Rs.  Its cheap and widely available.