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pru426

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Posts posted by pru426

  1. "Brightwells Dnepr"


    it looks a littlebit like military  K 750 B (W)...but
    i´m afraid and as they say it is an ordinary K 750..sidecars frame and bikes frame are civilian  versions
    but anyway.... if you are not a rivet counter...nice looking repro!

    pekka

  2. hi

    if you are interested in British war history in Lappland
     please read this

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raid_on_Kirkenes_and_Petsamo

    my friend said his relative  met 1941 in autumn ? two British pilots who were shot down  in that attack
    he met them at the German ? military hospital in Tornio but didn´t remember their names
    maybe someone is interested about that and knows who they were

    pekka

    ...and about the Fokker D XXI in Finland
    The highest scoring airframe was FR-110, achieving 10 victories; this aircraft survived the war and is on display at the Central Finland Aviation Museum.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fokker_D.XXI
     

  3. Hi

     

     

    Remember, it is historic , ex Military Armored Fighting Vehicle

    and maybe the main reason was to to preserve historic vehicles by selling it to the collectors

    if you convert it to other purposes for example " emergency vehicle " or "riot control" etc.

    with water cannon and etc DIY bullet proof windows

    I´m sure You and others aussie AFV owners Get In To Very Big Troubles with Authorities

    (nowadays here in EU , they are very, very suspicious / paranoiac of...)

     

     

    .....especially if you then get " a brilliant idea" to make action youtube video

     

     

    pekka

  4. hi Rick

    not bad

    no worries

    It seems that "67" is in a typical well-used condition with all kinds of civilian modifications ;-)

    Check the frame carefully .. I wrote in the past, there may be quite a few cracks

     

    pekka

     

    examples of my frame:

     

    (frame upside down)

    behind the left front leaf spring bracket there´s a weak point

    reinforcement flat bar..... army/ factory upgrade?

     

    attachment.php?attachmentid=127011&stc=1

     

    cracks ...left front shock absorber bracket ( holes for the old and later mod absorbers)

    attachment.php?attachmentid=127012&stc=1

     

    cracks ...rear leaf spring bracket

    attachment.php?attachmentid=127013&stc=1

    left front rear leaf spring bracket ...... heavy corrosion inside that´s why i have dismantled the frame

    not catastrophic but observe

    weak bending point behind the bracket

    attachment.php?attachmentid=127014&stc=1

    front upside down 1.jpg

    nimetön 1.jpg

    rear leaf spring bracket.jpg

    nimetön 3.jpg

  5. to buy Gaz 67b is not a bad idea

    as you know already

    ..original ww2 67 are very rare ..i suppose "war time 67 s" 95 % of them have later made ww2 time id

     

    post war 67 b are not very rare

    but crated barn finds don´t exist if you want quick & easy project

    you have to remember that the 67bs are well used and field repaired several times over the years by previous owners

    the car body is simple and quite easy to repair

    ..nearly all the sheet metal are available except the bonnet, firewall and the front grille

    those repro parts are high quality cnc cut and they have all holes ready

    Gaz tech is Fords from the twenties so that´s no problem

    dash fuel tank is a problem.. at the moment i haven´t heard about russian repros

    many of them have been out of use and modified (glove compartment !)

    the frame may looks good from outside but probably have nasty corrosion

    problems inside the boxed c-rails

    ....also likely have cracks here and there and could be dangerously weak after 60+ years of heavy use, backyard storage + mud & moisture

    the frame is not so good design against corrosion (my opinnion) because both rails are encased ...two 3 mm thick nested c rails welded together

    also they have quite a many factory stamped (big) holes and some rivets may be corroded badly , if is not dismantled and the boxed rails opened and the insidesand blasted etc

    .... and the frame may have been bent if it is not reinforced by the army work shops in the fifties

    that´s why they are usually "modified" , angle iron welded and repaired several times

    ...but don´t give up !

    pekka

  6. Great looking suspension on the rough ground but I would never buy a tank from a fat unshaven Russian wearing cammo clothing :-D

     

     

    yes, he certainly does not look well groomed sleek Fallos Deodorantos -class businessman

    but

     

     

    please look at his hands ...soil & oil, not manicured

    ....like the majority of us.. i think

     

     

    my opinnion he belongs to HMVF-class,real tankman ;=)

     

     

    pekka

  7. my guess... F L. means Flugzeug

    F.Z. might mean the fuse (zünder) & type for the 3 kg charge

    EOD friend said that Wehrmacht had instructions and correct "bolt on"

    demolition charges for every fighting eguipment from 20 mm flak to tiger tanks

    and Luftwaffe had the same practice

    ...........

     

     

     

     

    i have couple of Luftwaffe 200 l lubricant drums

    Luftwaffe marking example:

    F L. SCHMIERSTOFF

     

     

    pekka

     

    DSCN1559.jpg

  8. Clive

    i think that the sand bags were derived from UN stocks, and could be the same as British

    in here Landrovers were not used on a large scale, but our UN troops had them

     

     

    off the topic :

    later in here , for example some MP units had Defenders but they were not so popular

    .. the cabin is cold in the winter they said

    and pedals area is very cramped ?

    especially if you use gumboot with felt insulation ...Defender was not originally designed for LHD ?

    i do not have any experience on them , in our depot MP had only Toyotas and VWs and GAZ/UAZ models

     

     

    pekka

  9. your battery charger ..yes it looks right type to use

    if i remember right 6 volts is recommended, but i use 12v

    if you have a car frame and 1000 l water & soda crystals you may need more amperes than 8 ?

    ....i´m not a specialist for electricity

     

     

    pekka

  10. i have used Citric Acid Monohydrate..chinese made foodstuff ..couple of years ago was about 75€ / 25 kg here in finland

    they said that is also good for pigs stomach problems :) ...but do not try !!

     

     

    acids also work well, but they say that the pores must be neutralized with f.ex. soda crystals

     

     

    how acid affects the strength of steel ?

    for example fine threads and springs

     

     

     

     

    in my experience,

    electrolysis has one advantage that the solution can be re-used several times

    if the precipitate is filtered off with gauze etc. between uses

     

     

     

     

    pekka

  11. in my experience:

     

     

    about 0.6 l soda crystal & 20 l water

    i have used measuring jug/cup

    no big difference if less than 4 %...but if u use more soda than 4 % it does not improve the results

    mabe 2 % works too, you can try it if you have a big bucket

    and few days after you can (steel/ brass) brush the black silt away... easily

    it works..

     

     

    pekka

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