Burian

Hi can anyone advise what the voltage at the supply/test socket on the dashboard should read when the engine is running. Many thanks

Yes they are the same number as on the parts lists. I was assuming the light and power was on a timer. I will experiment with different times until I find one which seems to work. Many thanks.

Hi, We now have a 1987 110 Landrover with the original 2.5 NA diesel engine. I have replaced the glowplugs but the indicator never seems to go out. How long should the heater light be on and is there a specific timer you can change. Thanks

Hi I have a Leyland Daf T244 which is FFR so had no Rev counter. It also has a normal alternator fitted to the O/S of the engine with the auto adjuster. I have fitted a rev counter which is not working correctly. Looking at a wiring diagram the normal wiring for the alternator has six wires and mine has 4 fitted plus twp tied back. According to the schedule a Brown /pink wire is connected to the S or sinusoidal symbol and Brown /green to the F connection. The S is connected to the Signal input of the Rev counter via a connection to the PCB. According to the parts manual there is a transducer/generator fitted to the chassis but no drawing, the nearest thing is a connection to the front of the gearbox. The question is to anyone who is conversant with this wiring, have I found all the parts, I am not going to run radio equipment in the cab so any RF from the S connector, is not a concern.

Thanks gentlemen, What I meant to put in was tachometer not tachograph but the top line did have rev counter. Sorry for confusion.

Just obtained a truck ex radio body. These were not fitted with a tacho, is it possible to just fit a tacho to the dash or do you also have to add wiring. Would be nice if the wiring was all therebut just the tacho missing. Presumably not considered necessary as the vehicle was supposed to travel at no more than 55Kph. Thanks

Hi, anyone know anything about these trucks, they appear to be ex RAF. Would like to know reliability and spares, fuel consumption. Thinking of possibly replacing Bedford MJ with one. Seen them for sale but never at a show.

The vehicle has a pretty good engine, pulls well but does have a radio body to haul and a trailer with Volvo anti tank vehicle on the back, just short of 3.5 tons. We run fully loaded just short of 11 tons. On motorways and reasonable inclines she runs ok but now and again circumnstances conspire to make us have to climb a hill with no momentum. I am not after top speed just a little more pace on a hill. Looks like the 5 speed is the best/easiest option.

Thanks for that. Do you know if the engine can use the same mount positions? I was hoping to use the 6 speed box as in the TM.

Hi, I have an MJ which runs fine but on side roads hills tend to be a problem. I was wandering if you can fit the Bedford 500 with its gearbox into the MJ, its not to get top speed as to maintain a reasonable one on hills. The other option I believe that is easy is to fit a five speed gearbox and shorter drive shaft. Has anyone tried fitting a Bedford 500 to an MJ?

Hi I have a Bedford MJ turbo and need to take up the front wheel bearings. There are two threaded nuts and both have castellations. Are the castellations the same, I want to make a removale tightening tool but am unsure if I need to cut different teeth. I have a spare outer nut but not an inner to use as a guide. Thanks

Many thanks for the info guys. I have passed it on and he is a lot happier now.

My partners brother, he's 74, has bought his first military vehicle, a Landrover 109. He had a minor leak from the transfer case and had it repaired with new seal. He was advised that they had refilled the transfer case with ATF. This struck me as odd, I have a Bedford and Volvo so have no knowlwdge of LR boxes. Reading other threads there appears to be a concensus that the main box has ATF and the Transfer case is likely to have 80/90's. The LR has a 2.5 N/a diesel and a 5 speed box, locking centre diff. Can anyone advise what should be used. I can then get him to confirm what was fitted, before damage may be done. If more info on the boxes is needed I will try to obtain. Many thanks

Hi, My Bedford MJ suffered a valve failure and is currently being repaired, the least said about that the better. After its repaired, should I re tighten the head after 500/1000 miles?

I have an MJ with a radio repair body, initially with canvas. TP were 87 rear 54 front. After fitting body things were ok for about 10 months and then violent shaking. I tried taking the pressures up and down but no changes, the tyres seemed to have a hollow on the outer edge, front wheels. Reading up on my toyota 4x4 I noted a reference to spooning which is the effect I had noticed on the Bedford. I discussed the issue with ATS and the guy suggested upping the pressure or short term, swop tyres with rears. I upped the pressure and it took 4/5 months for the shaking to reduce and the hollowing to visibly reduce. I only use the vehicle for shows so depends on your usage. You can feel the hollow if you run your finger over the tyre, which are the modern tyres. Just thought as you have the heavy crane up front it may be part of your problem.

Many thanks, I had a closer look today and the problem is confined to a few clips. They do appear to be rolled. I thought that I could simply replace the spacer, as it does not touch the spring, the diameter is not too critical. I will ask at my local HGV station for their opinon as to replacement.

Hi, I have a Bedford MJ Turbo and I have a query on the springs. Both springs have additional spring clips, which appear to be a u shaped bracket with a bolt through the open end which sits in a sleeve which rests on the top spring. On my springs the sleeves appear to be wearing but I cannot see a part in the parts catalogue. Has anyone had a similar problem and is there a supplier of theses parts. Would this cause an MOT fail? Should the springs be lubricated, a friend with a volvo always oils his springs. I cannot find any reference to lubrication of the springs in the handbooks I have.

Hi, A friend of mine is going to be driving a Leyland Daf to a show in Germany next week and is wondering what grade fluids he should use. Engine oil, gearbox, axle, power steering. If all goes well he is likely to buy. Does anyone have the grades, I know where manuals can be obtained Once he has bought one! Many thanks

Yes should really call it The Water Pump Blues. Looks like the seal failed and over time water has got into the shaft bearings and possibly weakened the circlip. Eventually the bearings collaped and the impellor has rubbed agins the body. eventually the shaft has worked its way out. Luckily it fell over as soon as it got far enough out and the belts jumped off. So far cannot see any other damage, now ned to get the hoses replaced and a new pump in place before rust gets a grip.

HI has anyone seen this before? My Bedford MJ fan assy popped out whilst I was running. The impelor has come adrift from the shaft, or the shaft has broken, not determined that yet. Luckily the assy fell down and did not damage anything else. Just wondered if anyone had come across it before. I will post photo's when I get the pump off. Sorry about quality of these, not much room between engine and radiator.

Hi Just come back from a show and close to home the complete fan and pulley assy came off on my Bedfor MJ. As best I can determine the assy is only held on with a circlip. Has anyone had similar experience? I have not had the chance to determine the extent of the damage yet.

I will be there with my partner, usually in the Americas field.

I got one, made me buy a Volvo, now have a Bedford to carry the Volvo. She loves the meets and W&P. If you find a female , hang on the ride is fantastic.

Hi Have an MJ with leaking hub seal, anyone know where to get tool to tighten up correctly, or method of getting correct torque.

I have a Bedford MJ, with which I am happy, good runner etc. Problem is I have a small leak from the centre O ring, thought I would get round to that. Plus I have oil coming fron the holes in the brake drum assy. I have cleared the breather for the axle, there is still oil in both the diff and tracta joints, ( perhaps its overfilled.) Last option is there is a seal which needs replacing. Is there a seal behind the step plate which could could cause this leak or do I need to remove the brake drum and bearings to get at it? Ideas please. If I need to get the bearings off I assume I will need the Z8097 spanner, any ideas where they can be obtained from?