justinb

Justin, you can buy square drive tools as sets for removing sump plugs - they're available in varieties of makes and sizes and not expensive.

otherwise a bit of scrap or square bar ground to size.

hi sean

I bought a multi sump bung tool but nothing fitted very well !

i'll do a bit of fabricating I think.

finally decided to attack the centre bevel box!

cheers

justin

does anyone know where I can get a square drive tool to remove the brass covers to the pins on a stalwart wheel station .?

thanks

justin

stalwart PTO engine to bevel box swim gear anyone have any???

Thanks Dave & Lin 07909737449

I think Marcus glen have the propshafts.

I need a set of swimming steering levers if you come across any .I have the bracket but not the levers and shaft

justin

morning all.

I'm after 6 decent 14.00 x 20 tyres for a stalwart .

i'd prefer bargrips but round and black will do.

i'd prefer not to have to sell the wife,house and kids aswell:cool2:

cheers

justin

Thanks everyone for your replies.

 

Richard... that's a great find, that place looks promising and not too far away by Australian standards.

 

I will get some photos up soon. I have not seen it in person, a friend inspected it for me and took some pics. I decided on the better offering available for the exact same reasoning that spares are going to be hard to find, especially over here.

 

The big question is, where to find spares? Withams don't have anything. I've emailed Marcus Glenn and Green Machine Surplus. Where else to look? Does anyone know of any spares around?

Andrew baker or ian galliers would be worth a call or just post an ad on here for what you need

It's completely off-topic but I'm interested for re-rubbering FV430 wheels. Jobel have made me a couple of polyurethane prototypes to test but it's always useful to know what else is around.

 

Andy

theres a company in notts I believe that mainly do traction engine wheels .

justin

I just purchased a low hours Alvis Shielder from Withams, got to now get it shipped to Australia :cool2:

 

I'd be grateful for any advice on what I should do when I first receive it (I presume replace all fluids as it has been sitting around for years).

 

I'm going to buy the manuals from greenmachinesurplus.

 

I'd also be keen to get some spares if anyone knows of any. It comes with a few spare track segments but that's it. I would really like a spare road wheel and sprocket wheel. And anything else that anyone can recommend!

get as many spare wheels as you can get .they tend to self destruct quite easily .

one of the lads on the forum has the moulds to re rubber them .

have fun .

cheers justin

Thanks again to Clive and also Richard for their valued advice. I have noted the dissy cap firing flat for number 1 piston, (rotor arm at roughly 5 oclock) which ties with No1 piston at TDC with both valves closed, I assume this is the correct stroke? Of course, there is still the chance it maybe the carb. or something else being the problem but I'm most down on the ignition and the cobbled together dissy and leads but I do get a good spark from all leads. Glad I'm not having to fix it for Monday!!

 

Just another question to Richard, is the refitting of the oil pump, ie, the correcct meshing of the pump gear to the cam gear as in the RR manual vital? I have not meddled with the timing gears...thankfully .

 

Cheers

 

Jim

double check you've not got the dizzy 180 degrees out and check both sets of points for continuity ,could be a problem under the base plate in the dizzy.

Justin, what Andy says. Bostik C is a black solvent based adhesive for bonding rubber to metal and is still available. I'd guess a good adhesive seam sealer that will bond to rubber would also do the job.

sika flex sounds ideal !

thanks sean

Not sure they are glued I thought it was a nut and captive bolt on an internal strip.

theres a metal strip with captive bolts ,but on ,dare I say it 'salvage squad ' they used some glue as well .?

evening all.

i'm about to start replacing the drop down door seals on the stolly .

Does anyone know what glue should be used when installing the new seals?

cheers

justin

you could try tanks a lot ,

I know they had some for sale .

good luck

justin

excellent blog .

brings back fond memories ,I've restored an ex Belgian scimitar (as a sabre as that's the turret it came with)

you seem to be having all the same problems but its worth it in the end ,mines great fun to drive now although I still have some finishing off to do .

best wishes

justin

Thanks everyone , I shall track some down

cheers

justin

evening all .

I've got the cylinder head off the stolly ,hoping to cure the water into oil issue !

in the manual it states sealant to be applied to the exhaust side of the new head gasket but doesn't state what type of sealant?

any ideas

cheers

justin

It was definitely a mk 2 and was chopped about

just for the program , I came away from the company's yard

with a whole van full of Stolly and two good load bay doors on the roof .

they apparently had to drain all the oils etc before it was blown

up , and it was blown up , I saw the pics !

I have the data plate somewhere for it if anyone's interested

It was definitely a mk 2 and was chopped about

just for the program , I came away from the company's yard

with a whole van full of Stolly and two good load bay doors on the roof .

they apparently had to drain all the oils etc before it was blown

up , and it was blown up , I saw the pics !

When I acquired a Stalwart I had it drummed into me that I should never take any standard brake fluid within 50 feet of the vehicle. Apparently the standard DOT 4 fluid will destroy the seals designed for hydraulic fluids.

 

Consequently I used a Comma LIC10 hydraulic fluid for a couple of years. It seemed to work but the system did weep in places - particularly the accelerator slave. I was then told I was still doing it wrong and should only use LHM (Lockheed Hydraulic Mineral?) for the brakes accelerator clutch and power steering. I obediently swopped over though I didn't drain the system just changed to LHM. Overall a big improvement - slave cylinder isn't loosing anything now. The winch power steering reservoir still needs regular attention, but otherwise the LHM seems to do what it should.

 

Nic

 

09ER31

i always use LHM ,for the cvrt and the stolly ,never had any trouble with it .

thanks anyway Nic.

justin

Use the mineral hydraulic oil used in the system to lubricate the seals when fitting them.

brilliant ,thanks for that Richard.

Can anyone tell me if the scorpion and sabre turret hatches are the same dimmensions, im wanting a sabre turret hatch seal, can only seem to find a scorpion one, not sure if this will fit. i know the turrets are different.

Regards Andrew

I think I got mine from makano but it was a couple of years ago.

i'm just about to start rebuilding the brake callipers on the stolly with new seals etc,with normal brake fluid i'd use rubber grease on build up ,am I ok to use rubber grease on seals designed for the mineral hydraulic oil on the stolly ?

cheers

justin

Don't believe all you see on TV ! the Firing range is at Lulworth in Dorset where the Tanks do fire live rounds, they most certainly could Not fire a shell from a Frigate out at sea to land inland, that was pure simulation, and the final "Special Effects" explosion was probably one of the old Saracen target wrecks that are already on the range , you can be sure it was Not the Stalwart blowing up, .

PS. don't think Richard Hammond died in the explosion either !

the stolly was definitely blown up .

I met the guy who did all the prep work ,drained all the oils etc but I think it was explosives they used.

It was a stolly you can tell from the cab. Plus richard did say it was based on a stolly. Don't know anymore than that.

it was definatly a stolly .

an awful lot of its parts live on though as I bought them to help restore my stolly.:-D

Ok got the correct video, another funny from Martin Spirit, our friend from the UK!!!!

 

 

brilliant vid .

justin

evening folks ,

does anyone have the output shaft for a cvrt sabre traverse gearbox ?

I have one but its sheared off and I don't have the broken off bit .

even a broken shaft that I could repair or copy would do .

cheers

justin