justinb

On ‎23‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 9:09 PM, HillvueVM said:

Hi everyone I'm building my own mini tank using Peugeot running gear and was wondering if anyone had any CVR(T) steering tillers, master cylinders & brackets etc? Second hand would be perfect even if they require a refurb.

many thanks

i'll have a rummage around .

I may have the bits you need down at the unit 

On ‎09‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 10:56 PM, lowfat said:

change the seals in the outputs while your at it 5 minute job with it dismantled worth its weight in gold.

three of mine are brand new already but i'll be checking the rest .

justin

On ‎08‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 9:38 AM, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Justin

The aligning tool we had in Workshops way back then, was a normal turned up shaft to slide through plates into spigot bearing but it had two splines attached at 180 degs and secured by small countersunk screws.

regards, Richard

that's exactly what i'd designed in my head ,have ordered some keyway steel and round bar .

thanks again.

justin

22 hours ago, Lewis Garner said:

I got two plates off him recently Justin, very reasonable on price as ever. Richard is a hero for this sort of stuff!

yes not too bad at all ,I've ordered some new seals to go between the transfer box and the bevel boxes too

10 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Justin,

If you can get them, I would advise to use the later ceramic lined clutch plates. These were an army supersession. They do not absorb moisture and tend not to stick like the normal plates and much long lasting. Richard Banister will know about these as I once overhauled the clutch in their Stalwart. The hook washers should be refitted and left in until the clutch beds in. Don't forget to check and adjust the clearance on the intermediate plate.

Re. the clutch aligning tool, use an old shaft, one from a Martian will be the same.

regards, Richard

thanks Richard .

nothing like experienced knowledge over a manual.

i'll have a word with Richard bannister and request that type.

I don't have an old shaft so will have to make something up I think.

ill look up the adjustment details re the intermediate plate .

thanks again.

regards 

justin

28 minutes ago, Bob Grundy said:

There should be no problem in getting them relined, have you tried ?

hi bob .

i'll probably get two new ones from Richard Bannister but will reline them if he doesn't have any.

cheers 

justin

While replacing the knackered transfer box on our mk2 stolly I decided to check on the clutch plates ,

both really need changing as there's not much meat .left on them .

does anyone have any tips for aligning two clutch plates at the same time before refitting the gearbox /transfer box combo? 

it looks like the small tabs on the pressure plate had been left in well past the 1\2 wear stage ,is it worth refitting them ?

kind regards 

justin

6 hours ago, Obitwo said:

In process of restoring a Sabre & a Fox. In search of  ;

Sabre: Night sight cover, Commander seat, Right side, long rear bin (under exhaust). Position light /indicator boxes left & right. Full set of tracks. Frame for central ammo rack in the turret.

Fox: Night sight cover, Rear turret bin ( as seen on later versions).

 

I have made a mould for making grp night sight covers which apart from genuine hinges being hard to get looks spot on ,but theyre very time consuming to make hence not cheap.

justin

Yes you are correct, it has been about 30 years ago when I last took bevel boxes out of a Stalwart and my mind was foggy. Getting the sleeves back off the drives shafts can be difficult too if they are seized, but they need to come out before you can remove the pinions on the bevel box.

the sleeves on mine were seized and took a bit of violence to shift them ,getting the circlips back on is even more fun.

If I can work out how to do it I'll stick a couple of pics up

You have to remove the transfer box first before you can remove centre bevel boxes.

On the mark 2 you can remove the centre bevel boxes before the transfer box

but you need to remove the front and rear pinion cases first.

not sure if mk 1 is different though

What a pain chap, not what you need especially after just getting her all back together!

We still haven't really got any further with ours, I have tried with a bloody great bar to turn the thing over and it won't move even the slightest amount. We even tried fitting a sun gear and towing it but simply dug a trench. The front cover definitely needs to come off to see what on earth has happened in there. Unfortunately in years gone by someone has taken the top off to inspect the damage and left the top plate off allowing water ingress. It's not easy

Can you remove the centre wheel stations and then try and pull the centre bevel boxes out through

the hull until the shafts clear of the transfer box?

in my head it works but may not in practice .

just out of interest did you time up the planet gears in the reduction hubs

before you towed it as that could lock the wheel completely .

What about large stilsons on the propshafts in the hull?

justin

Bu**er. Sorry to hear that, Justin. Richard Banister?

Hi Sean , I'll give Richard a call tomorrow !

all was well with the old girl , even won best military vehicle

at a local classic show ,until this morning !

oh well

justin

Wanted , mk 2 stalwart transfer box , new , recon or good take off

cheers

justin

It looks like I'm in the same boat !

what I assume is the transfer box went bang on the

way to a steam fair this morning , no forward drive just

nasty noise , reverse drive with very Nasty noise .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smoke-Dischargers-Abbott-432-434-/112297897900?hash=item1a2579efac:g:SWkAAOSw2gxYnGma

Nick Mead not cheap either

try A&S

Hello chaps, just readying ourselves for removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box out of our Stolly project. My question is, looking at the diagrams am I correct in assuming that both centre wheel stations need to be removed before it can be lifted out? Thanks

you don't need to remove the wheel stations ,just the top off the centre bevel boxes and remove the spacer which splits in two .

you can then slide the shaft out from the transfer box ,wind back the oil seals and remove the clamp things .

i'd recommend getting the correct manual .

cheers

justin

Wanted a cylinder head gasket for B80 Engine RR

try Marcus glen or bannisters .

you'll need some wellseal too

they have to be "timed"

Yes , Sussed it thanks .

a friend said he thought they needed to be timed

and eventually I found the marks , now back together

cheers

Next problem !

wheel station all swapped , converted to steering wheel station

removed the epicyclic hub, removed the disc

and swapped the plate that supports the caliper

all good , built it all back up , all good .

cant get the epicyclic hub back on !

it goes on easily until you can feel the gears just start to mesh then it stops dead .

any ideas , REME tricks .?

im quite convinced the stalwart was built by pixies using magic !

justin

I don't muck around anymore with the lining up of tracta joints and them moving out of alignment while fitting.

I epoxy glue them lightly.

I don't know what true secret was or how they did hundred of these things quickly on the Alvis production line.

many thanks for everyones advice .

in the end I used a small blob of super glue and the wheel station sailed in .

well we got the wheel station out ,swapped the centre bevel box ,and now we've got the wheel station back in to the point where 5mm of the cork seal is left showing and it won't go any further !

the drive shafts seem to be in line and the little peg in the bevel box seems to align with the groove on the big brass swivel housing but it wont

go any further ,any ideas?

justin

I'm working on a stalwart at the moment and the lower wishbone pin had to be cut into 3 to remove the wheel station! i stripped the hub and split the king pin yoke to do it, not a pretty site! it took 20 tonnes of pressing and heat to get the pin out out of king pin yoke!!! was only changing a split gaiter!

 

i'm hoping mine aren't that bad .

I've started on my hydraulic thingy ,hopefully that'll do it .

justin

Pretty sure you can remove the locking plates and use them else where.The wheel studs are handed though

it looks possible to me as well .

I've got to remove some very stuck pins first in the wishbones .

I think i'm going to have to fabricate something hydraulic to get them out .

morning all .

while changing a centre bevel box , I've discovered the brake disc on that wheel station is mullered !

I have two more wheel stations that are new but they are fixed o/s rear so not set up for steering and the brake caliper is in the wrong place .

does anyone know if its possible to swap the around ?

cheers

justin

I made one out of some scrap 1/4 plate that i welded together then ground to size. also some of them on mine fitted a 1/2 inch drive ratchet..

that sounds the best plan

justin