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Lauren Child

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Posts posted by Lauren Child

    W.h.y?

    in Other Chatter

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

    One of my mates referred me to the "rules for tractor collectors", many of which seem to apply to MVs as well.

     

    RULE #2. Similarly,

    never line up your tractors, ever. Nothing distresses a difficult spouse more

    than seeing twelve old tractors lined up, looking for all the world like a

    burning pile of hundred dollar bills. Scatter the tractors around - a couple

    behind the shed, one or two in the shed, another beside the garage - so that it

    is not possible for anyone, if you know who I mean, to see more than two or

    three from any one perspective. Your hobby will be less "irritating" that way,

    if you know what I mean.

     

    RULE #3. For much the

    same reason, don't number your tractors #1, #2, #3. Give them names. You'd be

    surprised how much less trouble you will have, if you talk about "Steel Wheels"

    or "Sweet Allis" rather than "Allis Chalmers WC #14."

    [/Quote]

     

    More here - http://users.xplornet.com/~jackson5/shed/rules.html

    Fancy new battery chargers

    in I may be stupid, but......

    Posted

    It depends on the voltage - I looked everywhere for an intelligent 6 volt one with a decent current. All the ones I could find were aimed at small bike batteries or started at 12volt and 24 volt.

     

    You can get desulpherators seperately (in kit form if you are handy with a soldering iron), so that's my plan. I ended up with a Durite charger (its not very intelligent from what I understand - I think it's 2 or 3 stages), and I'll add the desulpherator at some stage to pulse and refresh the battery, giving me a reasonable solution.

     

    If I'd spotted it beforehand I'd have gone with one of the Abssaar chargers - not intelligent in the big sizes, but they have a really meaty 6/12/24 volt one that'll also do a jump start at lots of amps, so ideal for the old trucks.

    Positive or negative earth?

    in Lubrication, Batteries & Electrics

    Posted

    That is true but the way the coil is polarised will determine the polarity of the spark.

     

    I know a spark is a spark & will ignite the petrol vapour but the ideal arrangement is when the centre electrode is negative.

     

    In that arrangement a spark is more effective when launched from the hot centre electrode to the relatively cold earth terminal rather than the other way around.

     

    Having -ve earth or +ve earth coils is merely to establish the correct way of operation to ensure what one might call a "negative spark". (Best not to think too much about these things as electrons flow in the opposite to charge & it can get a bit befuddling)

     

     

    Thanks Clive :):tup::

    What can Sarah drive?

    in Legislation, Licenses & Registration

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

     

    What a load of rubbish. Embroidery and kittens are the very essence of motoring. Just look at this kitten fixing the string.

     

    128340812179843750cansomeonehan.jpg

     

     

    http://icanhascheezburger.com/2007/10/05/can-someone-hand-me-the-12mm-socket/?utm_source=embed&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=sharewidget

     

    They're good with armour as well

     

     

     

    Don't believe they're powered by embroidery? Well look here.

     

    knitted engine.jpg

    from - http://www.craftycrafty.tv/2012/01/crafty_art_knitted_bmn_engine.html

    Your user name, what does it mean...?

    in Other Chatter

    Posted

    I call myself Robin Craig because that is my name.

     

    I was once legally Simon Turner. Can anyone guess why?

     

     

     

    Looks like that you are going to have to tell us...............

     

    Tony

     

    I'm going to guess at "dating a girl with tattoos from a previous relationship, and you changed your name to avoid any embarrassing questions to her" (what a gentleman :D)

     

    Mind if we call you Bruce now, it'll save on the confusion?

    best metal primer

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    The Bonda stuff sounds good but a quick google found this - http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=29185

    Sounds like a trial on a bit of gash could be wise before doing a whole vehicle.

     

    On the projects that I've been involved with at Duxford we've mostly used red oxide, though I don't think it's got lead in it any more. They've all looked good when done. I've just picked some of the WarPaint red oxide to do the roof of my CMP, which is showing some rust coming through.

    Mechmate Pits

    in Other Chatter

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

    I was looking at these a while back. There were some cautions about sealing against moisture ingress (I seem to remember a story of one of them getting pushed up out of the floor by the water table), and I was told that vapours etc. that are heavier then air can collect down there.

     

    That said they've always looked like a good idea to me.

    Fv 432

    in The Tank Museum: News & Events

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

    I am in Malta had ordered the housing from Marcus Glenn and have the part available in hand so it is not that difficult to replace the only doubts I have is getting the track loose as i tried pulling the pin out and have managed a bit but need the puller to get it out completly and properly.

     

     

    Also I still can't get my hands on a track pin puller so I am figuring a way to machine a puller myself to do the job

     

    The best way that I've seen is to split the track at the front under the drive wheels. That way you can push the pin through with a drift (which means you can also control when it releases by removing the drift. The sprocket may or may not catch - don't trust it to hold the track). Later you can use the sprocket with some rope around it to wind the track back on most of the way.

     

    Make sure you've got lots of room behind the vehicle so the track can unwind all the way out and stand well clear.

    Make sure you leave enough track on both sides of the split so you can put the clamps on to join it back together.

    You will definitely need track clamps to put it back together. I would have thought Marcus Glenn can supply them if you don't have any with the vehicle.

     

    The manuals are also available from a number of places online - I'm sure one of the 432 owners on the forum can point you toward a decent photocopy.

    Fv 432

    in The Tank Museum: News & Events

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

    OK, it's not a difficult job, but it is potentially hazardous and takes a few people. If you don't have someone with you who's worked with these things before, then you probably need to put out a call for help on the forums or to the local MVT or IMPS groups. 432's are popular so you should be close to somebody.

     

    If I remember correctly the correct sequence of events is

     

    •Make sure the vehicle is on flat ground. Chock the wheels on the other side and make sure the vehcile is not going anywhere when you release the track.

    •Split the track so it's not resting on the idler anymore (its very very heavy and has a lot of energy when it moves, be very very careful)

    •Undo the big bolt on the hub (it looks like the odd one out) and drain the oil out.

    •Remove the hub cover (small bolts toward the centre of the hub)

    •Remove the inner cover (If I remember correctly theres a sealing cover inside that screws out)

    •Remove the big nut under this cover (there's a locking washer the you can bend out of the way with a screwdriver and hammer)

    •The hub can now come off the peg (be careful - it's very heavy)

    •You can now swap the wheels over to the new hub.

     

    The innards are very prone to damage due to mud and dust ingress at the back of the hub (there's no seal), so check for condition on the new one before you reassemble.

     

    I can't stress enough how important it is to have some experienced help and to know what you are doing when working with track. It also needs special tools to split and re-join, so make sure you have them and know how to use them.

     

    Where in the world are you?

    Fv 432

    in The Tank Museum: News & Events

    Posted · Edited by Lauren Child

    I think he's meaning the rear idler hub?

     

    You can do a lot to the road wheels just by jacking the arm up, but I'd be wary of attempting anything on the rear idler if the track is still resting on it.

     

    Are you replacing -

     

    • the big bit with the holes that the two wheels bolt onto
    • the small bit that the goes inside this that's covered in oil
    • the arm and peg that it all fits onto (and the tensioner piston butts up against)

     

    ?

     

    To release the tensioner piston pressure you need to undo the bolt (if you have one) or the nipple at the opposite end of the tensioner (where you nomally squirt the grease in to push it out) It's on a thread and you can undo it with a spanner. Take it out and (hopefully) the grease will squirt out (have a bowl handy).

     

    If the piston is stuck, then you need to apply some pressure to it to push it back in, that could be a bit of wood to protect the end and a hammer. If it's stuck then b efore you reassemble everything, work it in and out a few times (add nipple and squirt grease in to push out, release nipple and hammer back in) to free it up. Some penetrating oil on the piston helps as well.

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