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gritineye

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  1. There were more problems that I have thought of since but enough is enough!

     

    A couple of points re oil,

    Be sure to check that the oil feed pipes to the heads are not blocked with sludge, and oil is squirting out between the rockers.

    The crankshaft has large bore holes in the big end throws, this traps sludge and metal particles (centrifugal filter) which can in extreme cases cause oil starvation as it builds up past the holes, not usually a problem on average mileage engines, until you put detergent oil in one that has been run on straight non detergent stuff, as this loosens it all up.

    Other wise the bottom end should last you forever

  2. I admire your wish to keep it petrol if you can Andy, the sound needs to be preserved as well as the look, and even the smell of an old vehicle as it is so evocative!

     

    I kept mine petrol as long as my endurance would let me for the above reasons but in the end gave up , amongst the problems were,

     

    magneto:1st one packed up, re-conditioned one packed up (on the biggest hill on the A21, pushed it up into a pub car park with my 110 which was on an A frame, lot of tyre smoke!) modified a mag to act as distributor, coil overheated, points burnt, various condensers failed etc etc. all at different times.:-D Magnetos don't seem to last, maybe because of the positioning and heat, I have a patent cure for this problem though. And I still have the last reconditioned one which has only done about 30 miles, should any one be interested.

     

    Head gaskets: 1st engine had a weeping one so I attempted to remove the head, this was stuck fast due to stud/head corrosion, after getting it to move a tiny bit I found I had bent it and wrecked the studds (long pole in inlet port!) so decided to get another engine.

     

    Fitted next engine only to find it had a slight out of balance feel, did all I know to cure it, never did. Then the exhaust manifold cracked when leaving W+P show, lots of steam, towed home!

     

    Cylinder heads: after the manifold incident I got hold of some NOS head gaskets and took off the heads (easy this time, lucky me!) to realign them so the manifolds weren't stressed, only to find the little port that runs from the exhaust port to the inlet manifold hot-spot had corroded through due to a MOD mod that blocked off one pipe to each head so trapping corrosive soot inside and causing a lot of pitting. Explained the wet black stuff out of the exhaust every startup.

     

    Bought two more complete engines, one turned out to be a dud, the other looked to be the best one as it was untouched, nothing had been undone since it was painted, and it was perfect except that every top ring was broken, the top ring should have a bigger gap than the second, seems someone didn't know! result all bores badly scored.:rofl:

     

    Every engine I had would run fine until I needed to full power like up hill where a change down was called for, then it would misfire all the way to the top, only just making it, when I changed to Cummins I found out the reason, I had to cut the the fuel pickup pipe and inside was a badly cast elbow on the top resulting in a tiny hole for the fuel to pass through, and a snot of brass hanging down in the way as well! so I didn't have a hope of finding it, and it could never pass enough fuel.

     

    All cylinder heads I have seen have had the port corrosion problem to some degree, all engines have been full of oil thick oil sludge and need flushing, and the sumps and meshes cleaned.

     

    Well you did ask!:)

  3. another possible solution would be to buy a complete MJ Bedford canvas set (one as new condition on milweb £200.00) and hoops to erect over it, the hoops would possibly have to be extended to get more height which would leave an air gap around the bottom, not a bad thing re condensation.

    You may even be able to drive out and leave it behind and also be able to lift any part for access without uncovering the whole thing.

    I fitted one to my Explorer to protect the timber work etc and it has lasted at least 5 years, getting a bit tatty on top now though, looks non standard but then so does moss!

  4. Just found these amongst my old pics one is Benbecula RA ranges the other is a commando unit in portsmouth

     

    So there is some truth in the story that the reason a lot of Explorers have no engine side covers is because they were taken off, left against the wheel and driven over! I'm glad to see the later pic shows this didn't happen in your case :)

     

    BTW what is the double grill modification for?

  5. I've been wondering why Scammells would have built in such a weak point and have come to the conclusion that the gate was an afterthought, the six speed box was and is an unusual box being "sequential" in operation (ahead of it's time!) so there must have been a lot of very miffed operators and wrecked boxes until a gate was added. The attached photo seems to bear this theory out as it is a Rigid Six of around 1935-39 which used the Gardner 6LW & six speed box, (the rear mounting casting appears the same and the PTO is blanked off) there is no gate. Interestingly what looks like universal joints used here were later replaced by rubber couplings, but I may be wrong here it's hard to see too well!

     

    The gate and supports were most likely designed by a different hand hence the massive bolts used compared to the very small ones designed to just hold the gear lever ball, unless of course someone knows different

     

     

    nogate1.jpg

  6. I have heard of a few that have had this problem, I think Richard has put his finger on it, there is a lot hanging on four small studs. The front gearbox bearing on mine had been assembled incorrectly (shims on the outside of the support brackets!) at some point prior to disposal and the rubber inside it had worn away causing metal to metal contact. This caused a lot of vibration and and yes it was a bit blurry!

     

    Here is another take on reinforcing a welded one, this time with a plate sandwiched between and strapped to the housing.

     

    DSCF5093.jpg

  7. In reply to Andy and croc, here are a couple of shots of the modification I did to the selector housing after it cracked nearly right off, this method means it is not important to re-weld the alloy casting although it makes a better job if you do. You need to reduce the thickness of the gate bracket on the coupling side to allow the use of the original bolts, and to allow room for the coupling as it is very tight in there.

     

    DSCF5149-1.jpg

     

    DSCF5145.jpg

     

    DSCF5148.jpg

     

    notice R/H gate support reduced in thickness, bolt through casing inserted from inside to avoid fouling gear lever

    DSCF5665.jpg

  8. Thanks Bernard ! I am a bit of an allround spotter so did recognise the Bristol Brabazon ! Think I've seen a pic of a Pioneer towing it also ! Will you be at War and Peace this year as I would love a ride in Forcefull as its some time since I've driven Daisy as you can see !

     

    I've seen the Pioneer pic somewhere too, and Brabazon fans may even get to drive Forceful at W+P as the state of your Daisy has meant cold turkey and you seem to need a fix:)

  9. Yup, reckon you do only if you really searched for a Brabazon to find the film!

     

    Upload you pics to photobucket, when it is displayed click on the resize tap and select 'forums and bulletin boards' then click save it. Beside the pic will be a list of links click on IMG code and it is copied, paste this into your post and submit.

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