trophy160

If I read the manual correctly, I should find the front bevel box fillers inside the engine bay and just in front of the air cleaners. Depending on whether it is an early or late vehicle (mine is Mk6) they will have a dipstick associated with them. I have copied the pages from the handbook. I have also included a photo of my engine bay and for the life of me can't see the fillers. Are they really in the engine bay?

Thanks Andy

I'm fitting a basic Clansman intercom system into my Saracen. Can anyone tell me the mounting hole configuration/spacing for the IB2 and CB2 boxes. Thanks

Yup, I think it's got to go to Clansman, there just don't seem to be people selling Larkspur and I really need to get an intercom in sooner than later

OK, thanks Clive, so either accept non original equipment or keep looking for Larkspur I guess.

My recently acquired Mk6 Saracen (up-armoured in 1980) has the remnants of a Larkspur system in it, so connecting cables and three harness boxes. Having looked around, I can see that to even get a basic intercom will be expensive and probably not that easy to get the parts I want and to add radios will be more of the same. It would be a whole lot easier to buy and fit Clansman, I already have some Clansman radio. So my question is could a Mk6 operating post 1980 have had Clansman fitted?

Thanks Simon, it's been suggested that perhaps I should look at the earlier seat as this also has the advantage that getting in and out of the seat is easier as well. I think I'll look into that option.

I've recently bought a Mk 6 which has the type 30G seat. Unless I'm not adjusting it correctly, I'm finding that even with the seat in the rear/lower position my head is still in contact with the padding on the roof. I'm only 6 ft and can't believe that this can be right. Any thoughts?

Thanks for putting me on the right track all. If anyone knows of one for sale do let me know.

Thanks, were there two models, 12 and 24 volts? I'm guessing they weren't a regulated output so are they OK for battery charging? I've looked in the obvious places but nothing for sale.

I'm after a 24 petrol generator, the sort of thing that sits on the wings/wheel arch of a Ferret or in my case Saracen. Any idea what name these go by and where I might get one? I also have the option of getting a Kohler Countryman generator - I guess this is far to big and heavy to go on the wings, but are they any good? and does anyone have a photo of one?

Yes, in addition to my needle gun I have also bought a wire brush for the angle grinder and some of these poly discs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300715559936?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 they look like they will cut through old paint pretty well. Good point about the porosity of primer, must admit I am concerned about the likely time difference between starting to spray bits and finishing it, ie should all paint (primer and top coat) be applied before the respective layers have fully cured or is it OK to put top coat on top of fully dried primer. It would be a be of a bummer to spend months preparing it just to find that the new paint is not keyed to the primer

The long job of stripping the flaking paint and preparing it for painting will shortly start. I'm guessing that a zinc primer is as good as anything to put onto the old paint/bare metal and was thinking of this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261184948738?var=560187945243&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Now in reality it's going to take time to do this so I would like to prime sections as I work around the vehicle and this clearly needs to be done on the same day I strip the old paint. It might not always be convenient to mix up primer get the spray gun out and more to the point clean it all up afterwards if I've only done a smallish section. I was thinking of getting some cans of spray zinc primer that I could use to put a thin layer on (to stop rust) and then when I've got a decent area to spray, crank out the proper spray gun. But, if I do this (and assuming I don't use reacting primers) will I get poorer priming/rust protection by doing a two stage prime?

Thanks for the comments guys, mechanically it seems pretty good, one or two minor things. I think it's picked up some dirt in the carb as it was giving symptoms of fuel starvation today and needed the choke to keep it running. The only other problem is that the brake lights are staying on - does anyone know where the brake switch is located? I need to get a new set of batteries and that seems to be it for the moment.

Well here is it, my new pride and joy. Loading up today to be delivered an hour later to my home. My thanks to Richard Farrant who kindly facilitated in the location and purchase of 05FF14. As you can see, I have a bit of work to do with the needle gun. It certainly is a bit bigger than the Ferret I used to have.

Well, I'm still in discussion with the guy whose selling one, not seen it yet as a long way a way. But one thing that troubles me (due to total ignorance). It's been dry stored for a few years I presume that might/will mean that the pressure in the accumulators will be lost does that mean it won't have brakes and steering. Some explanation here would be appreciated.

Does anyone know anything about this Saracen for sale at Commando Elite Paintball?

Can anyone tell me what variant his one is? http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/large_image.php?ad=66047&cat=1

When I used to park my Ferret outside the village shop they always referred to it as a tank, imagine their faces if they saw a Saladin. Yes I agree one of those would be great, but I'm sure not cheap to buy. I would still be extremely happy with a Saracen, so perhaps I'll just keep an eye open for one and take a chance if one comes along. Perhaps the obvious question is what to look out for when buying (assuming it is running). The Ferret I know used to leak from the wheel stations and to my mind that was the biggest problem with them (well mine at least). But what else do I need to check if buying a Saracen?

Well I guess I'm mechanically pretty competent have rebuilt land rovers from ground up and done various other total rebuilds on cars but as with the Ferret I would be concerned that ignorance of how it goes together/is meant to work could result in a pretty big f*** up on my part. So access to good manual or general description of components etc would in my mind be a prerequisite. Are there any good write ups on their mechanicals around?

Sold my Ferret a couple of years back, always fancied a Saracen but are they just too mechanically complex/prone to failure etc?

Hi, new to the forum, ex Ferret owner, currently have LandRover Lightweight FFR, possibly looking for a Saracen